[Repeater-Builder] Re: Controller suggestions, TKR-820
You may also want to take a look at the Arcom RC-210 controller. I have had very good luck with Arcom units. I have both Link-Com and Arcom controllers in-service and prefer the Arcoms. I feel they give you the best bang for the buck. From my experiences with the TKR820's I would also recommend using a Angle Linear preamp on the receiver if you have enough duplexer isolation for the increased receive sensitivity. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, NORM KNAPP nkn...@... wrote: Hi guys, A local ham club recently received a Kenwood TKR-820 repeater. They are looking for recomendations for an external controller. Some of the features needed are to be able to enable/disable up to 3 link radios (2 for sure, one additinonal link radio later) via DTMF. Computer programmable. Don't really need to get fancy with voice anouncemt clocks or temperature or anything like that. May want to hook it up to a 100watt Mastr II later (much later) . Needs to be rack mountable as well... Any and all suggestions are welcome. 73 de N5NPO Norm Knapp
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repurpose a Mitrek UHF PA
Eric, Could you please give us a little more information please. What radio are you presently using for your UHF repeater? Does it have a preamp and if so what type? How much power out of the repeater transmitter do you presently have? Also what are you currently using for a duplexer and antenna feedline? The answer to these questions will help us determine if a move to a 100 watt PA is technically a sound move, or if other parts of the system will need to be upgraded as well to support the higher transmitter power level. While a lot of repeaters and links are made from Mitrek's including some of ours, I do not consider a Mitrek mobile PA to be continuous duty in any fashion, although at reduced power levels with added forced air cooling they perform very well. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Grabowski ejgrabow...@... wrote: A local ham radio club wants to add a 100 watt continuous duty power amplifier to their UHF repeater. They have available a 110 watt PA from a Mitrek mobile and some massive heat sinks. It doesn't appear that it would be very difficult to transplant the Mitrek PA onto one of the heat sinks and then mount that assembly to a 19-inch rack panel for installation in the repeater cabinet. Before I spend a lot of time on this effort, however, I'd like to know if anyone has done this before and, if so, is a how-to article available somewhere. Thanks for the bandwidth. 73 and aloha, Eric KH6CQ District Emergency Coordinator Hawaii ARES
[Repeater-Builder] 242-5600 Johnson/ADI Repeater Info
Has anyone used one of these 5600 Series repeaters for amateur service and interfaced it to a external controller. We use the Arcom RC-210 controllers. It looks all do-able but thought if anyone had, there is no sense in re-inventing the wheel. Anyone know of a source of both the radio and controller software? Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Linking and interference problem
John, Thanks for the more in-depth explanation. Link antenna and feedline is about as good as you can get. About the only improvement you might make is to get the two UHF antennas directly under each other. That creates a cone of silence and make for the best null. No need for the 7/8 other than a small improvement in signal loss. I would think about replacing all of the jumpers with silver plated double shielded coax. The filter that comes to mind for your link receiver would be a very precise crystal filter made for your link radio receive frequency. They are kinda pricey, so they may be out of your price range, but they are only a few KC wide. Since it sounds like the hub repeater is on a stable frequency and will most likely be there for a long time, the crystal filter makes sense. They are not re-tunable in the field since they are made for a very specific receive frequency. They have a little loss in them, but since you can run the squelch fully tight, you have enough headroom, and that should not be a problem. Other item I would recommend is to install a isolator on the UHF repeater transmitter before it gets to the duplexer. I am not sure what you are using for a duplexer, but I also might suggest locating a Telewave or similar 9 diameter to 12 diameter bandpass filter (one that has two connectors) to go between the UHF repeater transmitter and the duplexer. They use these large diameter UHF cavities for transmit combiners, but I have seen them on Ebay for reasonable prices from time to time. The larger diameter the cavity, the steeper the skirts on each side of the transmit frequency will be. I know this may sound backwards, but I would attack adding the isolator and additional filtering on the UHF transmitter as the first step. Once you have made the UHF repeater transmitter as clean as it can be, then you can move on to adding any additional filtering to the link receiver, if it is still needed. Joe - WA7JAW Joe, Thanks for asking.. Question #1 link antenna is on top. 8 element yagi vertical pointed 210 SW Question #2 No. They are on different legs and each is on the other side of the tower, almost directly opposite each other. Question #3 No preamp. Question #4 1/2 inch Andrews Heliax (not superflex) on both UHF units 150FT on one 140Ft on the other. 3ft jumpers 9914 belden on each radio. same on the Yagi's. N type connectors. Wish we could afford 7/8, but we take what the club can afford and work with that. Our club has appox 50 members, sometimes more or less depending on when they pay there dues. Hi HI. I know you didn't ask, but just in case you needed to know, 7/8 is not an option for us right now. Agreed that even just a few extra db rejection would do the trick. It wouldn't take a lot I don't think based on the squelch test, but a few db I would be highly thankful for, and I just don't have the knowledge to know how to get there from here. (-: 73 de John Godfrey KE5NZY BARC Pres.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Linking and interference problem
John, I like the others on here believe that your frequency and antenna spacing is too close to work with out filters and/or additional isolation. I do have a couple questions about your UHF antennas and their placement on the tower. 1. What type of antenna are you using for your link and is it the top or bottom antenna? 2. Are both UHF antennas on the same tower leg and spaced out the same distance so they are pretty much directly underneath or above each other? 3. Do you have a preamp on the link receiver, if so what brand? 4. What are you using for feedline and cables inside the building for the UHF repeater and link radio? I am trying to come up with some other ideas that will buy you a few extra DB of rejection here and there. A little here and there and pretty soon you have another 10-20 db of isolation you did not have before. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Godfrey ke5...@... wrote: I was hoping you can help our club with a repeater link problem. What we have are all GE master 2 stuff. Here is what we have going on. we have had for years a 147.270 + repeater that works great. Last year we added a link into a central state repeater system using a link radio on one of our ports. It transmits on 442.025 and receives on 443.2. For six months we have used the link fine without problems. Last week we installed on another port a uhf repeater to be used as a hub for the north central part of our state to also link to us and the central state system. The UHF Repeater receives on 449.750 and transmits on 444.750. We can link the 270 to either the link to central state or the UHF repeater hub with no problems, but when we link the 270 to both or just link the UHF repeater to the link radio, once the UHF repeater is keyed up, the input on the link radio is hearing it so we have an awful squeal and intermod back into the 270. There is also a pager at the location that I can hear when this happens but not any other time. Again they work fine as long as both UHF machines are not in use at the same time. When the 270 is linked into Central state, even if the UHF repeater is not linked in, if you key the UHF repeater you here the squeal on the 270. I can see how as the link input goes out over the 270 when they are linked. I am not sure why I can also here it on the UHF repeater when I unkey it, even if it isn't linked in. Other than the last part of that it would make since to ne that I have the two 440 antennas to close. We have them about 10 feet apart, but the one can't go higher and the other can't go lower and still serve the purpose needed. I am thinking I need some kind of filter, that I can put on the link radio, that will protect it from the transmit of the UHF repeater. In other words the 444.750 is coming in my receive on the 443.2. Changing freq is not an option due to several reasons. If I had a filter of some sort, that would either allow say 442-443.5 to pass and attenuate everything else that would be great. Or something that would pass 442-443.5 and attenuate everything above 443.5, then that would work. Guys, what am I looking for and where might I find it. Must I build something that is this custom, or can I buy it. If I must build it, where should I start. If I can buy it,, where from and what would they call it. If my thoughts are off base, please help me to know what other questions I need to answer to solve such a problem as this. I thought maybe the pager was just interfering, but why would the 270 work fine when linked to the link radio, or linked to the UHF repeater, and the only time we have the problem is when the 270 is linked to the link radio and the UHF repeater is keyed up, regardless of whether the UHF repeater is linked in or not. I know my question is long, but m hope was to explain the problem with enough detail that you might have an answer for me. Your help would be greatly appreciated by our Club. 73 de John Godfrey KE5NZY BARC Pres. DISTRICT B ADEC ASTEN NM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Linking and interference problem
john, Forgot to ask in my first reply. I am assuming that your link radio is also a Mastr II from your original post. Is it a mobile or a station configuration? Thanks, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Godfrey ke5...@... wrote: I was hoping you can help our club with a repeater link problem. What we have are all GE master 2 stuff. Here is what we have going on. we have had for years a 147.270 + repeater that works great. Last year we added a link into a central state repeater system using a link radio on one of our ports. It transmits on 442.025 and receives on 443.2. For six months we have used the link fine without problems. Last week we installed on another port a uhf repeater to be used as a hub for the north central part of our state to also link to us and the central state system. The UHF Repeater receives on 449.750 and transmits on 444.750. We can link the 270 to either the link to central state or the UHF repeater hub with no problems, but when we link the 270 to both or just link the UHF repeater to the link radio, once the UHF repeater is keyed up, the input on the link radio is hearing it so we have an awful squeal and intermod back into the 270. There is also a pager at the location that I can hear when this happens but not any other time. Again they work fine as long as both UHF machines are not in use at the same time. When the 270 is linked into Central state, even if the UHF repeater is not linked in, if you key the UHF repeater you here the squeal on the 270. I can see how as the link input goes out over the 270 when they are linked. I am not sure why I can also here it on the UHF repeater when I unkey it, even if it isn't linked in. Other than the last part of that it would make since to ne that I have the two 440 antennas to close. We have them about 10 feet apart, but the one can't go higher and the other can't go lower and still serve the purpose needed. I am thinking I need some kind of filter, that I can put on the link radio, that will protect it from the transmit of the UHF repeater. In other words the 444.750 is coming in my receive on the 443.2. Changing freq is not an option due to several reasons. If I had a filter of some sort, that would either allow say 442-443.5 to pass and attenuate everything else that would be great. Or something that would pass 442-443.5 and attenuate everything above 443.5, then that would work. Guys, what am I looking for and where might I find it. Must I build something that is this custom, or can I buy it. If I must build it, where should I start. If I can buy it,, where from and what would they call it. If my thoughts are off base, please help me to know what other questions I need to answer to solve such a problem as this. I thought maybe the pager was just interfering, but why would the 270 work fine when linked to the link radio, or linked to the UHF repeater, and the only time we have the problem is when the 270 is linked to the link radio and the UHF repeater is keyed up, regardless of whether the UHF repeater is linked in or not. I know my question is long, but m hope was to explain the problem with enough detail that you might have an answer for me. Your help would be greatly appreciated by our Club. 73 de John Godfrey KE5NZY BARC Pres. DISTRICT B ADEC ASTEN NM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 Meter Repeater Antenna Suggestions
Tim, I just purchased a pair of Morad antennas for our club's repeater. they are very similar in size to a super station master, right around 21 feet in length. They make a 156 cut antenna for use on the fishing boats up in the Bering Sea and make a 146 cut antenna for amateur repeater use. Same construction for both antennas. We are replacing our 18 year old ones we originally bought in 1980. They are on a 300 foot tower that is right next to the ocean and catches pretty steady constant wind and sea year around. Nothing wrong with the current Morad's that have been up for 18 years, but we feel we have gotten our money out of them. We paid a little less than $500 each for them a couple moths ago. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tim Osborne radio1...@... wrote: OK not to open a can of stinky worms..but... I need to buy a NEW 2 Meter Repeater Antenna. I am asking for suggestions. I have heard bad things about the now across the boarder assembled Andrew/DB Prod. Antennas. The 139-150 Split version is available and in stock from Tessco List is $730.00. (and yes I know it can be bought a lot cheaper) And please no suggestions about Diamond or any of the HAM made antennas. These are very poor Repeater Antennas and will not stand up to Mountain top ice and wind. Not to mention their poor performance and noisy Duplex operation. Thanks and 73 Tim K4TDO
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone got a Amp-meter Circuit to Repeater Controller for Telementry Readback?
Kevin, Here is what I use. A 100 Amp shunt with big wire connections to go in series with the battery leads, and small set of screw terminals to connect to the sensing circuit. The one below generates 100 MV of voltage at 100 amps of battery charge. http://store.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html For a circuit we use the one that Ken has provided on page 13 in his Arcom RC-210 manual, since we mainly use RC-210 controllers, but the same circuit will work with any controller. All we are doing is using a OP-Amp for a voltage multiplier. Then you adjust your meter face accordingly in the controller configuration. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ftp/pub/manuals/rc2103_0ahardware.pdf To calculate the values for the resistors in the op amp circuit so that I can get the desired voltage change where 100 mv full output from the shunt equals about 4 volts, I use this handy little tool. http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Op-Amp/Op-Amp-Voltage-Calculator.phtml We sometimes will do two of these charging indication circuits, so that we can monitor solar and wind charge rates independently. Hope this helps. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle spar...@... wrote: Hi All, I am in need of a circuit to read amps to my controller. Want to be able to read the current being used at the repeater site as well as the charging current to the batteries. I am using a RLC-3 controller. I have a current meter in-line at the site, but a reference from the repeater would be a great help. Thanks Kevin, ZL1KFM.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Needed 88.5 Micor PL Reeds
Eric and Bill, Thanks for the reply and help. You are both correct in that some of the reeds will not work in all applications. My application, which I should have specified is in a Micor factory repeater station. The station PL decoder and encoder boards that I have will accept either the fat or thin reeds. Eric, thanks for keeping me honest here, as you are such a wealth of knowledge on these radios, and your posts are always so informative to read. Thanks everyone for all of the reply's and help. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hudson w6...@... wrote: Eric, The thin one is the vibrasender sender as in transmit - and it is a TLN6824a The fat one is the vibrasponder responds or rx the PL tone - and it's a TLN8381A This is always the case, and they are not interchangeable between transmit and receive. The 88.5 PL frequency is referred to as YB. I looked in my box of reeds and found two Vibrasponders (TLN8381A) for him, and emailed him directly as he requested. I don't have any Vibrasenders (TLN6824A) with that tone, so he's still looking. Bill Hudson - ex-Mo - Graduation class of 1983 - W6CBS. _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 6:28 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Needed 88.5 Micor PL Reeds Joe, You should be specific about your needs. Some Micor reeds are thin and some are fat- and won't fit in some radios. What part numbers do you need? 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:53 PM To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Needed 88.5 Micor PL Reeds Hello, I am in need of a couple sets of 88.5 Micor series sponders and senders. I do have several other tones in my reed collection to trade or let me know what you want for them. Please email me privately off the list if you have anything. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery Desulphator for deep cycle batterys
Tom, The marine commercial fishing guys around here on the Southern Oregon Coast have been having pretty good luck with the Nanopulser units. One of our local marine dealers have been selling the heck out of them and the guys are saying 2 or 3 times battery life out of the batteries on the boats. Like Eric said, not sure if it will bring a old tired battery back to 100%, but they sure seem to work to keep good batteries healthy longer. The nanopulser units are available for battery plants from 12 volts to 48 volts. Good Luck, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Oliver tsoli...@... wrote: Anyone have any info on a what brand Battery Desulphator to buy? tom (\__/) ... (='.'=) ()_()
[Repeater-Builder] Needed 88.5 Micor PL Reeds
Hello, I am in need of a couple sets of 88.5 Micor series sponders and senders. I do have several other tones in my reed collection to trade or let me know what you want for them. Please email me privately off the list if you have anything. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: off site extra RX
Rick, If you are not interested in using a 2 channel voter, the second best way is to use a 2nd PL tone on the remote receiver. I have done both and if you have a good group of users, the two PL tone method works very well. If you have a technology challenged group of users it can be a pain to keep explaining to the users how to use the system. With a voter, the users never know there is a second receiver. Good luck with your project. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Rick Szajkowski va3r...@... wrote: Question for the group The repeater is on the out side of town .. coverage in town is ok but could be a lot better TX is GREAT Idea .. can I put a RX (vhf ) site in town and piggy back that to a UHF radio and then feed that into a RLC controller to be linked to the main repeater port or will that cause problems ? I just want to bring up the 'handi' coverage in the down town core I have access to a roof top that will do what I want to .. any Ideas ? Thanks Rick
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Repeater
Ralph, I use Scott's N3XCC method on our Micor repeaters. It uses the station control module and squelch gate card. http://www.repeater-builder.com/micor/micorstationconnectionnotes.html I use the factory PL decoder and encoder, perform the modifications for and squelch, which involves cutting jumpers on the audio/squelch board and making the changes on the receiver interconnect board. If you modify the audio squelch board for and squelch and do not do the mods on the interconnect board, you will not have audio in PL mode. I have used this method with Link-com, Arcom and Zetron controllers. Feel free to email me off list if you are still having problems. Good Luck. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ralph S. Turk w7...@... wrote: Hi all. I am working on a Micor repeater (not Mobile) and I am having problems with the Squelch and Audio circuits. Actual original usage of the Micor repeater is unknown. The repeater will have an external controller. The only module used is the Station Control modified per repeater-builder. Transmitter is all ok. I can not get the Squelch to work with a correctly adjusted/aligned receiver. I also can not get the audio to the speaker with any volume. Very low level. I have both an unmodified audio/Squelch board and a modified (per repeater builder). I suspect I need some jumpers on the Unified Chassis interconnect (mother board) in the RX area but for the life of me, I can't seem to figure it out. I might also have to make some changes on the receiver interconnect board The Unified Chassis interconnect board (mother board) is a TLN 5944A. The receiver interconnect board is a TLN 5646A1 I believe I have the correct schematics for all modules. Any Ideas Thanks Ralph, W7HSG
[Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Info Needed
I have a question for the Mastr II guru's out there. I know the 19D432500G1 PL board will do both Decode and Encode, but I can not find any documentation that shows it operating in both modes at the same time for repeater service. I looked through the manual on the repeater-builder site, but could not find a reference to full duplex operation in a Station. I am trying to help out one of our local radio clubs, but I am a lot more familiar with Motorola radios. If this board does not do full duplex, maybe someone could enlighten me as what GE did for PL transmit and receive modules in a factory Mastr II repeater station. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mastr II Info Needed
Butch, Sounds good. Thanks for the info. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Butch Kanvick hot...@... wrote: Hi, Joe. They use seperate Encode and Decode boards in the drawer of the radio. I hope this answers your question. Butch, KE7FEL/r To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com From: joeburk...@... Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 04:34:40 + Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Info Needed I have a question for the Mastr II guru's out there. I know the 19D432500G1 PL board will do both Decode and Encode, but I can not find any documentation that shows it operating in both modes at the same time for repeater service. I looked through the manual on the repeater-builder site, but could not find a reference to full duplex operation in a Station. I am trying to help out one of our local radio clubs, but I am a lot more familiar with Motorola radios. If this board does not do full duplex, maybe someone could enlighten me as what GE did for PL transmit and receive modules in a factory Mastr II repeater station. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hamtronics Helical Resonator Preamp or Advanced Research Preamp
Bob, Which preamp you use to work properly in your situation depends on several details. We need a lot more information from you to make any firm recommendations. There are cases where a lower gain preamp will actually produce more measurable results. If for example the site has a higher than normal noise floor a lower gain preamp will often times amplify more of the signal and less of the extra site noise, where a higher gain preamp may amplify both the noise and signal, giving you a signal with more noise than you would like. The choice of preamp also depends on what equipment you are using and what the power level of the transmitter is, and what type of cabling is used for intercabling within the repeater, and also what type of feedline to the antenna you are using. In general on a site with a high noise level I prefer to use Angle Linear preamps, or if you are using a Micor or Mastr II repeaters, the factory preamps can be a help as they are only about 10 db gain. As was mentioned, a pass cavity (the deeper the skirts the better), after the duplexer in front of the preamp, is a must, especially on a noisy site. If you can give us a little more information, some of us can get you a little closer to where you want to be. From my past experience with them, I would not use a Ham-Tronics preamp on a noisy commercial site. Joe - WA7JAW Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob Ricci b...@... wrote: Hamtronics has a preamp with a helical resonator with a 18dB preamp. I am at a high elevation with noise all around me. Advanced R3esearch has a 24dB preamp with a low NF and 1dB compression point. Either would be behind a WACOM 642 6 cavity duplxer. Which would be the better approach? The ultimate goal is to improve reception of handhelds in a mountainous region.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hamtronics Helical Resonator Preamp or Advanced Research Preamp
Bob, I think I have to agree with Kevin on this one. Do yourself a big favor and invest in a piece of heliax, before you spend money on a preamp. It is a much better investment. I use heliax, even if the run to the antenna is only 20'. I also use 1/4 superflex for cabling between the duplexer and radios. Get rid of any adapters used in the antenna leads, they often times can be a source of loss. As sensitive as those radios are, a high gain preamp may not be your best friend, as they may very well put the front end of the radio into saturation with a weak signal. I think about a 10 db overall gain is about as much as you want to shoot for. If you go with a ARR or angle linear preamp, a 6 - 10 db pad on the output of the preamp may be your best friend. Chip at Angle Linear offers a very good price to amateurs, only about $20 more than a ARR and well worth every penny. I think you have a pretty good combo going for what you are wanting to accomplish. If your coverage area is pretty close to the repeater, then a antenna with a lower angle of radiation may work better for you. In that situation, don't be surprised if the lower gain antenna provides better coverage for your close in users than a high gain antenna. Good Luck, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob Ricci b...@... wrote: An Angle Linear is on the list, but out of the budget at the moment.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Maxar mods for 6M?
Denny, I would stay away for those Maxar's. They were never a very good radio, but they were a lot cheaper than buying a Maxtrac or Mitrek at the time they came out. I would stick with trying to find a 42-50 MHz Maxtrac or other synthesized radio. If you really want something in a crystal controlled radio, I would try and find a GE MVP or Motorola Mitrek 42-50 MHz radio. The MVP's are a front mount or under dash radio and about the same style and age as the Maxar, but are a much better radio. The Mitrek in my opinion is a big step up over the MVP, but they are little harder to interface to, since they are a rear mount radio with a remote control head. Let me know if I can be of any help. Joe - WA7JAW If you find a synthesized radio and need help programming it, let me know and I may be able to give you a hand or program it for you. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Ashworth k...@... wrote: Tnx Eric - that may be good advice. I did find manuals ...not at $58, but still plenty expensive ... and I'd still need a crystal ($25-30). I want to replace a 6M beacon so RX not an issue ... but will need to mod for CW. This mod (in my limited experience) usually means getting into things and keying in front of the driver - also not very optimal. I might just build something myself - not tough if crystal controlled at 50Mhz, CW and 10-15w output max. Thanks Dennis, K7FL Battle Ground, WA == Eric Lemmon wrote: Dennis, The Maxar is a low-end, economy radio that may be difficult to convert to 6m. I tried to convert some VHF high-band Maxars to 2m, and found their performance to be disappointing- even after doing all of the capacitor changes. I must assume that the low-band models may be equally problematic. If you buy your crystals from a reputable house like ICM, they will come with an appropriate compensation capacitor to provide rough temperature compensation- but it still drifts far more than a good channel element would. You really should have the service manual on-hand before trying to modify the radio out of band. The good news is that manual 6881033E75 is still available from Motorola Parts. The bad news is that it costs about $58. My advice is to pass on the Maxar and find a low-band MaxTrac. I bought a 2-channel MaxTrac (D51MJA93A5AK) two years ago, and paid $35 for it- one of the best deals I've ever made! Other than programming it to 6m and tweaking the VCOs, it works perfectly without any modification. That may be the exception to the rule, but it just happened to work for me. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Ashworth Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Maxar mods for 6M? I have a Motorola Maxar, plate number D31TRA2300AK I scanned through the Repeater builder site and didn't find many hits on the model. I want to put this on 6M - any experience on how difficult it would be to insert a 6M crystal set/realign? Any thoughts or referrals would be most appreciated Tnx Dennis, K7FL Battle Ground, WA Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted: 2 Meter Preamp
Scott, I have used both Angle Linear and ARR preamps, as well as factory GE and Motorola units depending on the situation. I personally like the Angle Linear preamps over the ARR units. Depending on the site, a lower gain unit such as the factory GE preamp is a better choice on a site with a higher than normal noise floor. The extra 10 db or so more gain that the ARR and Angle Linear units have over the factory GE unit is negated due to the additional gain of preamp amplifying site noise instead of the received signal. If you are on a quiet site with a low noise floor, you can run a lot of preamp and have a receiver with excellent sensitivity. The GE receiver should open squelch about .3uv or less and 20 db of quieting should be .5uv or less. If your receiver does not meet the factory specs, fix it first and then add the preamp. If the receiver is sick, adding a preamp to a broken receiver can cause other problems for you down the road. Good Luck, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Avery wa6...@... wrote: Hello All, I am a looking for a preamp to go on the WR6ABD 2 meter repeater on Mt. Loma Prieta in San Jose. The club does not have a lot of money these days, and membership dropping fast! We are currently running a GE Master II with .5uv sensitivity into split antennas spaced vertically about 50' with 1 pass bottle on TX and one on RX. One duplexer on 2 meters is broken internally, and buried in the cabinet. A full day just to get out and back in. Not to mention repairing the solder joints. I am looking for a suitable preamp with low noise for the receiver. Something like an Angle, ARR, VHF Engineering etc. I will be going up to Loma Prieta this next weekend Jan. 31 to do some other work. It would be great if I had one in hand to install. If I can find one in the Monterey/SF Bay area that would be awsome, and could pick up. Please email me directly wa6...@... if you have what the LPRC needs. Thanks and 73... Scott WA6LIE www.lprc.net www.remotehams.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: updating my uhf repeater Receiver
Mark is correct. Micor receiver, do the below 445 MHz mods listed on the repeater- builder website, use the factory PL decoder, and a Angle Linear preamp. This combination is what we use on our link system here on the Oregon Coast. Receiver will typically open squelch at .1 uv or a little less and 20 db quieting wiil be .2 uv or better. Spectra-Tac housing is very well shielded and a excellant choice. If you are not using a Micor Unified chassis for the repeater, then the Spectra-tac housing is the only way to go, as it is far better shielded than the unified factory repeater chassis. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9...@... wrote: If it must be Motorola, then it must be MICOR unit of any type. Bulletproof is the only way to describe them. I use SpectraTAC units with MICOR receivers in them and absolutely LOVE them. They are on 449.550 PL 114.8. Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n8rtn ok guys looking to update my uhf repeater Receiver. i want to hear a nat fart 10miles away.. what should i get ??? must be a motorola !! Thanks...N8RTN 442.875+ 100.0 pl
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Duplexer Info Needed
Bill, That was the info that I needed. It is so nice to have all of the help that everyone on this site offers up. Mine is a 4 cavity T4085A 430-470 unit designed for the 3 MHz and wider split. I have not done any more work on it due to work and getting ready for the family to appear for the Holidays. The high pass/low reject side works perfectly, it is the low pass/high reject side that will not tune properly. I think I am going to have to drill out the pop rivets holding everything together and see if I see any problems inside the cans. Just needed to verify exactly what I was working with before I started the dis-assembly process. If it worked once, it can be made to work again. Thanks, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hudson w6...@... wrote: There you go Joe! The man with all the answers! That sounds like the exact situation you have! Good work on that info! Now I'll have to go back and see what the deal was with the duplexer we had here! Bill - W6CBS _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of nj902 Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 2:02 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Duplexer Info Needed The technical data for the UHF MSR2000 duplexers is contained in a section of the UHF station manual, 68-81061E55, behind the OPTIONS tab. This section was not included in the original -O release of the manual but is definitely in newer manuals such as the -C version. The MSR2000 duplexer family consists of several 2 and 4 cavity models covering the frequency range from 406-520 MHz. The same TRN9041A cavities are used in all of the models, thus the mechanical construction of the cavities should not be a factor in your issue. Different antenna and interconnect cable sets are used for each of the three frequency ranges: 406-430 MHz, 430-470 MHz, and 470-520 MHz. The 4 cavity T4085A models operate at T-R spacings of greater than 3 MHz whereas the T5002A models are configured for separations between 2 and 3 MHz. These use a different set of coupling loops than the T4085A. The maximum input power specification for these duplexers is 250 Watts. -- --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF MSR2000 series radio that is the pass/notch style. ... I can not find any info on this unit ...
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Yet Another split antenna Question
Joe, I would use a 6-8 pass can on both the transmitter and receiver. That will give you plenty of isolation. On a large site, I would recommend using a circulator or isolator on the transmitter, just to be a good neighbor, and the VHF Mastr II PA's really like them also. Add a Angle Linear preamp and that thing will be a pretty wild repeater. I would also use 1/4 or 3/8 superflex in the cabinet to cable everything with, even the preamp. Good Luck. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kb5vjy jholl...@... wrote: Folks, I have read just about every split antenna post that I can find.. I hate to be a yet another poster but here is my situation. I just want to know if it is do able. And what problems I might run into. After months of waiting, I have been issued a repeater pair of 147.255 for a long range 2m repeater that will be installed. This is my first 2m repeater, but I do have 3 70cm repeaters (all Mastr II's).. My situation is the following: I have a Mastr II Station 100w Cont. Duty PA for the project... I still have to order the xtals. I will run a PL as needed on 127.3. The controller will be a CAT (version unsure of) I have a 2000' broadcast tower with a platform at 1300' and another at 1000'. There is a DB 224 mounted under the 1300' and one under the 1000' platform with a section of 7/8 feedline running from the top platform and the bottom platform. There is a full rack size NEMA 12 enclosure on the 1300' platform. After Feb '09 there will be NO VHF transmitting equipment on this tower at all. The closest transmitter is 6 miles away. What I would like to do, is mount the radio in the enclosure at the top platform. Use the top DB 224 for the Receive antenna, and the 1000' DB 224 for the Transmit antenna. What are the problems that I will run into with this situation, and should I look for some type of filter for the receiver. I do plan on putting an APRS Digi at 1300' as well moving one of my 70cm repeaters to the same platform some time early next year. Any comments would be helpful. Thanks.. 73 de Joe KB5VJY Sorry.. RTTY dayz!
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Duplexer Info Needed
Bill, That is interesting that you are having the problem with the duplexer not tuning down to 440.8. This duplexer that I have will tune down to at least 440.0 with no problem on the duplexer running out of pass tuning range. The problem that I am having is with the notch sliding adjustment on the top of the cans running out of adjustment range on the notch tuning. The screwdriver pass tuning adjustments on the front of the unit have plenty of range. I never did run them all the way in just to see how far they would go, but they will go well below 440.8. I will try your suggestion of tuning it up on the higher end of the band tonight if I get home early enough. I have one of these style duplexers on our 444.525/449.525 225 watt Micor repeater running at 150 watts with a Angle linear preamp on the receiver with no problems, so I know they can be made to work at the higher end of the band. I don't think a T1500 deries duplexer will perform as well at that power level. I was hoping someone had a manual that covered the duplexer. I can not find any reference to the specifications or parts list in the MSR or MSF manuals that I have. Thanks, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hudson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe You just happen to have one of the series of duplexers that does not make it all the way down into the bottom of the ham band at 440.xxx Mhz. If it truly is the Motorola duplexer out of the MSR2000 series repeaters, they - in fact - do not tune down to the bottom of the band. The original T-1500 series duplexers make it fine, but the mechanics of the tuning in these specific cavities bottom out before making it to the lowest part of the 440 - 450 MHz. band. What you are experiencing is normal. Trying tuning it up in the 444.9 / 449.9 range, and you will see it works fine. Maybe you can trade it with one that you know will be going on a higher frequency. Interesting timing on your post. I just became aware of this myself a couple of months ago. Bill - W6CBS _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 11:24 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Duplexer Info Needed Hello, I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF MSR2000 series radio that is the pass/notch style. I am pretty sure Motorola also used this same duplexer on the MSF5000 series of radios. I can not find any info on this unit and I am having a problem with the notch on the low pass side. I can not seem to adjust the notch past 4.5 MHz spacing. It will adjust down to 3 MHz spacing just fine. The notch on the high pass side adjusts just fine and will actually go a little beyond the 5 MHz spacing. The pass adjusts properly on both sections of the duplexer. It was originally on 464/469 and I retuned it to 440.8/445.8. The notch problem was there on the original frequency as well. I am using a IFR A-7550 analyzer/tracking generator for alignment. the duplexer has very good insertion loss and the notches are -100 db, so it is meeting specs very well, other than the one notch being off. Has anyone ran across this before or have any ideas. I though I would ask the group, before I started drilling out pop rivets to disassemble the cans from the mounting bracket. Thanks, Joe
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Duplexer Info Needed
Hello, I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF MSR2000 series radio that is the pass/notch style. I am pretty sure Motorola also used this same duplexer on the MSF5000 series of radios. I can not find any info on this unit and I am having a problem with the notch on the low pass side. I can not seem to adjust the notch past 4.5 MHz spacing. It will adjust down to 3 MHz spacing just fine. The notch on the high pass side adjusts just fine and will actually go a little beyond the 5 MHz spacing. The pass adjusts properly on both sections of the duplexer. It was originally on 464/469 and I retuned it to 440.8/445.8. The notch problem was there on the original frequency as well. I am using a IFR A-7550 analyzer/tracking generator for alignment. the duplexer has very good insertion loss and the notches are -100 db, so it is meeting specs very well, other than the one notch being off. Has anyone ran across this before or have any ideas. I though I would ask the group, before I started drilling out pop rivets to disassemble the cans from the mounting bracket. Thanks, Joe
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MTR 2000
John, I would have to agree with James here on this topic. A MTR2000 is pretty spendy for most clubs. For my money a MSF5000 is very hard to beat and I have found the software to be a little more flexible for having the programming options that work well for amateur radio use. I would recommend using a external controller for the flexibility. You can't beat a MSF5000 for the price/vs performance. Like the MTR2000, they are welcome on any commercial site that I have ever been around. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, James Adkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd highly recommend a Motorola MSF-5000 that's PC programmable. They are bulletproof and can be had for probably half of a used MTR-2000. On 11/21/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can expect to spend at least $1000 for a used MTR and anywhere from $4000 to $7000 for a new one. 40 watt units are a little cheaper than 100 watt but not by much. I'd recommend looking for something else because the MTR's can be expensive to repair should any repair be needed that requires module replacement. True service manuals are not available (never have been) and even flat rate repair is a little pricey. Also they won't apply flat rate to one that has lightening damage. Gary John Transue [EMAIL PROTECTED] jtransue%40cox.net wrote: To help me determine whether the Motorola MTR 2000 is our of my club's funding range, would someone tell me approximately what a ham radio club would have to pay for such a repeater? John -- James Adkins, KB0NHX District 1 Technical Field Engineer Troop A--Lee's Summit; Troop H--St. Joseph Missouri State Highway Patrol 504 SE Blue Parkway Lee's Summit, MO 64063 816-622-0707 ext. 235 417-840-5261 (Cell) I'm James Adkins and I approve this message
[Repeater-Builder] Micor PURC Station Relay - NEEDED
Hello All, Does anyone have a main power relay for a UHF or 800 MHZ Micor 225 Watt PURC station? The relay is located on the High Voltage Power Supply chassis, right below the 20 amp main power inlet fuse. I will try and get a part number out of the manual in the morning. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Power Supply or Astron Supply?
Robert, Go with the Micor supply. It has a nice fero-resonant voltage transformer that will operate continuous duty 24/7 at it's rated output. I have seen a lot more Astron power supply's that have failed on hilltops than I have seen failed Micor units, keeping in mind that I have seen a lot more Micor power supplys on hilltops than I have seen Astrons. I only remember seeing one Micor supply that lost a transistor, fail over the last 30 or so years, and I lost track of the number of failed Astrons that I have seen or repaired. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What say the group; Micor TPN-1106 (w/battery backup) or Astron RM-50M (w/battery backup) Add on some sort of 9.6v reg. board for the Astron. Don't have a TPN-1106 yet but will be looking for one if I do go that route. PA is 100watt cont. Have a TPN-1100B right now. If there is a add on board for that (and have been told there is not)...might look at that. Will be making a quick run to the Stone Mtn Hamfest in ATL on Nov 1st if someone has one for sell. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MTR2000 UHF Service manual
Just out of curiosity are you performing these tests with a 1000 cycle tone and if so, have you tried it with no modulation? It almost sounds like it is going out of the bandpass of the receiver when you increase the signal level. What happens when you vary the frequency a few KC higher or lower in frequency than your center frequency. I assume you have already tried resetting the radios settings back to factory default settings in the programming software. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Camilo So [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Need help to order a MTR2000 service manual that have the schematic diagram of the receiver unit, Got this unit from Ebay, Hook up the unit on my bench with a dummy load on the TX out, and apply signal on the RX input with a IFR1200, The squelch open at 0.12 micro-volt at 0.15 uv its 12 DB Sinad, when signal was increased to about 1.0 micro-volts or higher the receiver drop out, as if the agc is overloaded that cut out completely and also drop the TX, Have anyone ever experience this problem before, This is the first time I have seen this kind of problem , and its hard to fix it w/o a diagram. any help is highly appreciated. de w4cso Camilo
[Repeater-Builder] Interface Zetron 30 Patch to RC-210
Has anybody tried to interface a Zetron Model 30 patch to a RC-210 or any other multiple port controller? The Model 30 resides on a mountain top connected to a cell phone. It is only connected to one radio currently, but I want to make the patch available to multiple radios on the site. This is a commercial application so let's try and avoid all of the why are you doing this when there is a patch available for the RC-210. It looks like it should interface to the RC-210 using Ken's 4th port method for IRLP. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Rptr Exciter Audio Inject Point
I would start by removing the Mic DC from the exciter. I inject the audio to pin 22 on the top row of pins on the backplane that goes to the exciter interconnect board. I also cut the trace on the backplane board that goes to pin 22, so that the only source of audio reaching the exciter comes from the controller. Assuming that you are using the factory PL decoder and encoder, I have found a decoder now and then that either has a bad coil or capacitor and is not filtering all of the PL out of the receive signal. These modules are getting on towards 30 years old and you can find a bad part every now and then. Look at the output of pin 17 of the squelch gate module with a scope and make sure the PL filters on the PL decoder are doing their job. You should not see any PL on the audio at this point. This is where I also pick up receive audio to feed into the controller. I will use a series capacitor or a series/parallel resistor capacitor combination in the receive audio lead at times to get the proper audio response curve to the controller input. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n6nr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am having a problem with the audio coming from my remote base receiver. I am using a LINKR2A controller. I originally used the de- emphasis jumper setting, but it sounded too treble, so went back to the broader spectrum setting. The problem is that I have to take the audio directly off of the remote receiver's discriminator, rather than using filtered audio. I currently inject audio from the ICS controller to the exciter on pin 11 of the Squelch Gate card, which is a filtered input. However, when RX audio from remote receiver has PL superimposed on it, it still interferes with the repeater's talkback PL. It looks like I may have to build an RC filter of my own to clip off the PL before it gets to the controller. Does anyone have a suggestion as to a better place to inject the audio?
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Recommended commercial radios that use SMT technology - to convert to 2m rpt
Just a couple simple hints here for best practices that I have found works best on voted systems. You want to keep all of the receivers connected to the voter the same. You also want to keep all of the controllers and link radios at the remote sites the same. For example if your main repeater receiver is a Mastr II then all of you main receivers should be Mastr II. If you choose a Motorola Maxtrac for a link transmitter, then all of your link transmitters should be a Maxtrac. Setting up and balancing the audio is the toughest part of a voting system for most people. The goal is to not be able to tell if a user is coming in on one of the remote receivers or the main receiver. I know from your previous messages that you prefer the smt technology radios, but from a RF standpoint, most are not made nor suitable for for use in a repeater site environment unless you have pretty deep pockets. You will find that some of the Motorola mobiles will hold up just fine for the link radios, but for your main receivers and repeater transmitter it is very hard to beat a Micor or Mastr II repeater station (not a mobile) with a good preamp. Good Luck with your project, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tedsims [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wasn't clear about that...the motivation for rebuilding it is that most of the equipment at the voting sites is gone. Just one rcv cavity, and the antenna system at one site remain. I don't even know what was installed there. Also, only one of these sites is still available. I think we'll run 3 voting sites in the end, so we're looking for two more. That's what I've got to work with. At the main site, the current setup is a Mitrek receiver, a heavily modified Kenwood TK-930 transmitter that can put out around 13W continuous, driving an amp (can't remember what) with a single MRF-174. It puts out about 85W into the duplexer. The TK-930 is brain dead, so temporarily, I have put in a CDM-750 running 25W without the amp. There's a box with 3 MSTR-II UHF receivers that used to listen to voting sites connected to an LDG RVS-8. Each receiver is connected to it's own beam antenna. These look OK. That's what I've got to work with.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Any 1 need any of these?
Randy, I could use some UHF Mitrek radios. The numbers on the radios should be UHF RADIO FCC TRANSMITTER NUMBER T34 = 30 watt T44 = 50 watt T64 = 75 watt T74 = 100 watt UHF RADIO CHASSIS NUMBER HUE1001B = 406 - 420 Mhz (30 watt) HUE1002B = 450 - 470 Mhz (30 watt) HUE1147A = 470 - 512 Mhz (30 watt) HUE1011B = 406 - 420 Mhz (50 watt) HUE1012B = 450 - 470 Mhz (50 watt) HUE1153A = 470 - 512 Mhz (50 watt) HUE1032B = 450 - 470 Mhz (75/100 watt) HUE1033B = 470 - 494 Mhz (75/100 watt) The HUE1147A, HUE1153A, and the HUE1033B are not usable for my needs. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Randy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Moxy, Mocom-70, Motrac, PAC, Syntor, Maratrac, Maxar-80, Micor, Mitrek,
[Repeater-Builder] Re: On The Air!
Mark, That is great news. You are to be complimented for not giving up on the sometimes difficult Micor. 73, Joe - WA7JAW -- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The new Joliet East GMRS repeater is ON-THE-AIR! 462.5500 PL 156.7 Thanks to everyone who assisted me with this project - whether it was with hardware, technical or moral support. ;-) Mark - WQIV271 / N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-400 Cable
Tom, My first question is what is the reflected power on the antenna? With duplexer loss I am guessing that you would have about 70 watts out of the duplexer, anything more than a couple watts reflected could cause problems. Yes, the LMR series of cable is really that bad for duplexer use. Worse than that it will turn to junk inside in less than a year if anywhere near salt water. I have replaced lots of it. We avoid any cable that has aluminum foil shield here on the Oregon Coast for outside use. It will corrode up and turn to white powder inside, causing all types of site noise for just about everybody on the same tower. The other question is what type of cables are you using between the radio and duplexer? You ideally want heliax even at 50 MHz. Next best cable is silver plated double shielded coax. If you have to buy new, most of the time 1/2 ldf Andrew heliax can be found cheaper than the silver plated double shielded coax. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tom Elmore [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently put a six meter repeater (52.810/51.110) on the air here in Anchorage, Alaska. I am feeding it with about 60 feet of LMR-400 cable and am experiencing quite a bit of desense. I did a search for LMR-400 in duplex operation and came across several posts from users of this list and decided to sign up and investigate some more. I am running a GE Master Pro at 100 watts into a 8 cavity Sinclair duplexer. The antenna is a Diamond co-linear mounted about 35 feet above ground at the present time. I live on a hill here in town and currently have the repeater mounted at my home qth. When I terminate the duplexer into a dummy load and look at it with the spectrum analyzer it performs very well with no desense. Connecting up the antenna is another story altogether. I have been pulling my hair out over this one thinking it must be a duplexer problem. Originally I fed the antenna with RG-213 which I know is not the best choice for repeater use but it is what I had handy at the time. I was getting desense with the RG-213 so I switched to the LMR-400 since I had a roll someone had given me. I actually think I had slightly less desense with the RG-213. Is the 400 really not that suitable for duplex operation even at 6 meters? What would be a good alternate choice ? Thank You Tom Elmore KA1NVZ Anchorage, Alaska
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Coax Help
Mike, I normally use standard silver/teflon PL-259 connectors with a silver plated ug/176 series adapter for the 1/4 superflex. To turn a standard connector into a Andrew clone, just drill about a 1/8 hole through the adapter, about a 1/3rd of the way down from the top. Solder the copper jacket to the adapter through these holes, thread the connector together, tighten with a couple pair of pliers, and solder the center conductor. For N type fittings, I either shop ebay or I will buy a N-200 conector from Radio Works. These Radio Work connectors assemble like a PL-259 and use the same reducers. Same deal, just dirll a hole in the adapter and solder the copper shield through the holes, solder the center conductor and assemble. I like these connectors because they have a rubber gasket between the two halves. For BNC fittings, you are pretty much stuck trying to find the proper connector from Andrew. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n7zef [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Howdy; I was given today 2 pieces of mini-hardline marked Andrews Type 204909. It is the size of mini-8. I think this is 50 ohm, but what would be the velocity factor of it? I want to use it to make lines for 146.7/146.1 and 443.3/448.3 between radio and cavitys. Putting on the ends, does it take anything special, I would like to use solder on type id I could. Appreciate any help I may get... 73 Mike - N7ZEF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola MICOR Receiver enclosure questions
Larry, According to my VHF PURC5000 manual the connections are: Pin 1 - Gnd Pin 2 - Rcvd Audio Pin 3 - PL/DPL Disable Pin 4 - nc Pin 5 - A+ Pin 6-10 - nc The mating connector is J2400 on the Control Board. I have not opened up my UHF receiver to check and see how the pinouts line up. I would be surprised if they were different. 73, and hope to see you in Rickreall for Swaptober Fest. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently picked up a 72-MHz MICOR receiver off of the big auction site (won't mention the name lest someone get all [EMAIL PROTECTED]!).. This MICOR receiver appears to be in a 3-1/2 high MSF-5000 series box, with the spring-loaded releases on the black front panel. It has a squelch control and an RJ-series jack on the front panel, and the rear panel has a BNC antenna jack, along with a 10-pin male plug. The Motorola P/N stamped on the rear is TRC1072AB, which might be just something like the rear panel number and not the complete assembly number. Does anyone know what series station this receiver was used in? I'd like to find the hookup info for it, and find a part number the 10-pin matching connector. I have plenty of actual MICOR receiver info, for receivers of all bands, and would like to use this as a UHF control receiver for a 2-Meter repeater. Repeated request for info emails to the original seller have not been responded to, so Im trying here. One person in our shop felt it might be part of an MSF-5000 sereis paging station, with this 72-MHZ receiver used for control (maybe similar to a 330W MICOR PURC station on 42 MHz with its 72-MHz receiver, which I have sitting in my garage.) Larry
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted: 2-port controller
Sorry I do not have anything used. Not sure what a new CAT200 will set you back these days, but if you are looking for a inexpensive 2 port controller, I would look at one of Brian's Linker IIA ICS controllers for under $140. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a need for a cheap 2-port controller for a commercial repeater project. One repeater and one link port. Before I go order a new CAT 200, does anyone on the list have something similar that they're looking to get rid of? Thanks Eric KE2D
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola MICOR Receiver enclosure questions
Larry, I do not have the manual that specifically covers the optional link receiver chassis, which is what we both have. I was using the pinout off the the opposite end of the cable where it connects into the station. There is no reference that I have found any reference to a COS input signal. It appears that the system is expecting idle tone to be present, much like the spectra-trac voting system. We may need to find the manual for the link receiver option, to find out everything the other gentleman was saying about the differences in the audio/squelch boards between bands. I think between us with our previous Micor experience, we can find the appropriate COS and PL detect signals on the A/S board. We may have to do a little digging and use something like a CD-4001 or CD-4011 cmos gate to buffer the signals to prevent loading, but that is not a huge problem or showstopper. Lots of room inside that chassis to work with. I am also inclined to use something like a DB-9 or a round hole mount Cinch style multi-pin connector instead of the ribbon cable. I know Motorola used the ribbon cables for a lot of their cabling in the newer stations, but I still prefer using shielded cable for interconnections. Joe
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted: 2-port controller
Jim, I have not looked at the NHRC-4 lately. I have used them in the past and they are a good controller also. Can you now command the controller via DTMF from the link port? I know in the past you could only command the controller with DTMF from the main repeater port. This is why I started using the Linker IIa when I needed a 2 port controller. Thanks, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The NHRC-4 two port controller does a nice job. I have 3 that I built from kits and have less than $70 a piece in them. The software upgrade they are delivering now is very straightforward to use and works very well. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Wed, 9/24/08, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted: 2-port controller To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 6:17 PM Sorry I do not have anything used. Not sure what a new CAT200 will set you back these days, but if you are looking for a inexpensive 2 port controller, I would look at one of Brian's Linker IIA ICS controllers for under $140. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, kk2ed kk2ed@ wrote: I have a need for a cheap 2-port controller for a commercial repeater project. One repeater and one link port. Before I go order a new CAT 200, does anyone on the list have something similar that they're looking to get rid of? Thanks Eric KE2D
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Community Tone board question
Peter, I will take a stab at this and some of the others can jump in and help out also. Yes, you are correct in your assumption as to how a community repeater works. It is a single channel repeater with the ability to have different user groups that each have their own PL or DPL Tone. The repeater can only handle one conversation or user group at a time. Typically the mobile radios had a wire connected to either the hang up button on the microphone or they used a hang-up box that contained a switch inside it. The way this worked was when the microphone was hung up in the holder, the radio was in PL mode and you could only hear conversations from your group. When the microphone was picked up or taken off hook to make a call, the radio was then changed to carrier squelch mode and you could hear if the repeater was in use by another group, or was available for use by you and your group. If it was busy, you just waited your turn and if it was clear, you were good to go. It was not uncommon to have 6-8 or more different user groups on a single community repeater. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Peter Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think I know the answer to this but I am going to confirm it. The community tone board only filters out what talk group you don't want to hear. And it won't let you if you have multiple groups on the same pair talk over each other. Am I correct on this? The reason I ask is that we have several groups that want to be on the same pair but want different PL's but the machine wont let two people with different pairs talk at the same time if I am not mistaken. We only have one pair for this site (VHF) and they want several talk groups for grounds, maintenance, banquets, housekeeping, ad the front desk. Let me know of I am right on this or if I am being crazy. Thanks Peter
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Update on the MICOR Community Repeater project
Mark, That sounds good. I should be available pretty much when ever you have time. After 8 AM until 11 PM Pacific time should be OK. I do not remember if you listed what the part number of the 4 user modules that you have is. If they are not of the same vintage or series as the Master Decoder Card that could be a possible source of a problem. I do not remember much about Motrac Community Repeaters, only worked on a couple of them and that was a long time ago. I may be way off base here, but I would think that all the cards should be of the same vintage or series. If the Master Decoder Card is from the MSY series station, I would expect that the rest of the cards in the chassis would be MSY vintage also. Mark, have you tried finding a TRN6165A Master Decoder Module to try in your repeater? 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Joe. No they were not equipped with either, that I can tell. At least I was not provided with any of those cards. And I called Motorola, the manuals are all NLA... OK on calling - I think I have your TX number somewhere in the message archives. Will be working until Friday - my next day off. What's a good time to try to call? (Remember the 2-hour time difference... wink ) Mark - N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola MICOR Receiver enclosure questions
Larry, I think you are headed in the right direction. I have most of a MSF-5000 purc station and it has a UHF receiver much as you described your 72 MHz receiver. I was surprised when I removed the covers and found a Micor UHF receiver and Micor PL decoder inside the chassis. I have the receiver, exciter, control shelf and some other misc parts from the station. I am still not sure which software to use to program the control shelf, but I figured International Crystal could reprogram the receiver and exciter to the new channel. I have a PURC5000 manual. If it covers the receive chassis that we both have, the connector pinout should be the same. When I get back to the house I will go have a look. 73, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently picked up a 72-MHz MICOR receiver off of the big auction site (won't mention the name lest someone get all [EMAIL PROTECTED]!).. This MICOR receiver appears to be in a 3-1/2 high MSF-5000 series box, with the spring-loaded releases on the black front panel. It has a squelch control and an RJ-series jack on the front panel, and the rear panel has a BNC antenna jack, along with a 10-pin male plug. The Motorola P/N stamped on the rear is TRC1072AB, which might be just something like the rear panel number and not the complete assembly number. Does anyone know what series station this receiver was used in? I'd like to find the hookup info for it, and find a part number the 10-pin matching connector. I have plenty of actual MICOR receiver info, for receivers of all bands, and would like to use this as a UHF control receiver for a 2-Meter repeater. Repeated request for info emails to the original seller have not been responded to, so Im trying here. One person in our shop felt it might be part of an MSF-5000 sereis paging station, with this 72-MHZ receiver used for control (maybe similar to a 330W MICOR PURC station on 42 MHz with its 72-MHz receiver, which I have sitting in my garage.) Larry
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Update on the MICOR Community Repeater project
Mark, Sorry to hear that you are still fighting this problem. I think we were on the right track when this kinda ended last month, in that what you need to find is a Motrac series community repeater manual that might show the TLN5803A Master Decoder. I have not been able to turn one up yet. I do have one question for you about the original configuration in these stations. Did they originally have a Diode Logic and a Multiple TPL Encoder card installed in them? I am sure you have answered this question already, but I really do not remember. If you still have my number, give me a call and we can talk on the phone. I have misplaced your phone number. 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, I got this thing all reassembled and tuned up on the new frequency pair. a fellow ham (who used to work for the local Motorola shop) came over with his service monitor and we tuned and tested the system. It is still not passing PL to the transmitter. Some PL bleeds through from the receive, but I know that is not correct - nor is it of sufficient level. (I only get about 90 Hz of deviation with this PL.) We took a CLOSE look at the Master Decoder card itself and it appears to be configured VERY differently than the later version depicted in my manual. For example, the later version card (based on two ICs) has no connection on Pin 24 to the backplane. My card (an earlier version with discreet components) appears to have some sort of signal (audio) on Pin 24. So I need desperately to find either the manual pages pertaining to my older Master Decoder card, or I need a newer version card. If ANYONE has either of these, I'd be much obliged of you would contact me. The issue HAS to be the Master Decoder card - it is not passing any PL to the exciter. The problem is, I have about 8 of the same vintage Master Decoder card, so changing them out is not resolving the issue. For the time being, I am going to put the machine on the air as-is. it works just fine, other than it will have to be CSQ receive for all users. I'll decide later on whether I will put in a tone panel, or continue to operate it as it is now. Mark - N9WYS / WQIV271
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mocom - Motrac receiver on 6 Meters
I can't be 100% sure about your particular radio, but years ago I had a Motrac on 52.525 and I do not remember changing any parts. It was a high split radio on 47 MHz. I do remember it had the noise blanker option and it tuned up very well and met rated sensitivity and the power out was right on also. I had it in my old 4WD ford pickup for close to 10 years, and it never gave me any trouble at all. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kq2h [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does the Motrac style preselector tune on the high end of 6 Meters, 53.7 MHz without capacitor changes? It seems that modifications to the preselector would be difficult, as it appears to be hand wired - assembled. Breaking a coil seems easy to do.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MICOR PL 74.4
Bill, Do you need the sender or the sponder, or both? I think there may be a set in our collection. Let me know what you need and I will take a look. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone have a Micor 74.4 PL reed laying around? BillB **Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514)
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Micor 12 Volt Power Supply
Hello All, Lee, I will give a look at the circuit that you uploaded. I think there may be some confusion as to what I am actually looking for. Motorola made the normal power supply that operated from 110 vac that was used in radios fed off of commercial power. They also made a power supply that was designed for 12 volt battery power input and provided some additional filtering for the 12 volts and provided the 9.6 volts. This is the unit that I am looking for, not the normal AC power supply. I guess I am too much of a purist when it comes to these radios. I don't mind changing a few parts to restore them to as close to factory new as I can make them. As far as replacing the factory 110 vac input power supply with a newer item, I can tell you from experience with bad power on mountain tops that the ferro-resonant transformer in that ancient old Micor supply will still be making voltage long after those new whiz-bang switching power supplies have gone to their grave. I am sure that there are lots of people with different opinions on this subject, and that is what this hobby is all about, learning and being able to discuss different schools of thought. Thanks to all who have replied. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, ve7fet [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Joe, As Jesse noted, you can eliminate the Micor power supply all together, if you are running it off an existing 12V DC plant. I have just uploaded a file in the files section (12vmicor.pdf) that details the mod that I have used on my stations. It uses an LM317 regulator, a couple resistors to set the output voltage to 9.6VDC, and a couple filter caps. I mount it just behind the AS board in the chassis, to give the LM317 a nice heatsink. USE AN INSULATOR BETWEEN THE LM317 AND CHASSIS. A couple jumpers on the backplane, and you're all set to feed it 12V from your plant. Feed the PA directly from your plant, and it will be happy. I have used this mod on VHF and UHF stations... just check the manual and make sure that the connections are same (there are a number of backplanes out there in the field). Cheers! Lee VE7FET --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: Hello, I am in need of a Micor power supply to run a station off of a 12 Volt battery bank. If anybody has one or two that they want to part with, please email me off list. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking for DTMF encoder...or suggestions
Bob, I thought Eric's attack on Ken and the RC-210 controller was very uncalled for also. The poor fellow asking for help, or the rest of us, for that matter did not need to get drug into this several year old disagreement between Eric and Ken. All that was asked for was some help getting his Motorola DTMF Mic working properly with his new controller. There have been several threads here on this list asking everyone's opinion on what controller they prefer and why. Lot's of reading if you search through the archives. There was no need for this thread to head in this direction. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 9/5/2008 12:29, you wrote: Eric.. Your response is out of line and indicates your either inability to understand the original post or the technical needs of the situation. How is one stating his personal experience with/opinions on a specific model of repeater-related equipment out of line? I have absolutely nothing to do with ARCOM or Ken Ark or have any opinion...but taking someone else's legitimate question and using it as a platform for a biased diatribe, is clearly out of place for common consumption. Other than being off-topic for the topic (but not this list), I disagree. Personally, I'd like to know exactly what Eric doesn't like about the RC-210. I've owned one myself didn't care for it either, but obviously many others have opposite opinions. Bob NO6B
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE uhf high power
Fred, I stand corrected. As always, you can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for the correct information. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Fred Seamans [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: To All: GE Did make a solid state 200 watt UHF Transmitter. They used a 100 watt PA driver to two 100 watt PA's less the 40 watt driver board and then recombined the two 100 watt to get 200 watts out. They sure are not efficient! I agree it would be better to use a 100 watt PA at reduced power. However the 100 watt PA's are rated at 100 watts continuous power output. (That is key down for 24 hours with no degradation in power output). Fred W5VAY (Retired GE Mobile Radio) _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 12:54 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ge uhf high power Also as Nate said, GE did not make a high power solid state amp. The Mastr II high power stations that I referred to use a normal Mastr II solid state PA to drive a tube amplifier to acheive the 225-250 Watts on UHF or 375 Watts on VHF. If you are not familiar with high power tube transmitters and working with high voltages, stay away from these. They are not for the faint of heart, and the voltages present can be quite deadly. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him, but that was a couple months ago. They are more like 350 Watts. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com, kb4ptj kb4ptj@ wrote: hi i am looking for ge uhf solid state high power 88 splyt 200watts kb4ptj@
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Kevin, Thanks for all of your information. When we get deeper into this project I am sure I will be talking to you more in-depth about the dual module PA. Milling the Micor PA deck is not a problem for me as I do a lot of metal work as well. I can see where the adapter would work very well for those who do not have knowledge or access to a milling machine. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe Burkleo wrote: Kevin Thanks for the information. I figured that if anyone had tried it you would be aware. I was just looking for more than 30 Watts out. Scott and I have been successful in building small IPA's (intermediate power amplifiers) that take the power from the exciter and make 3/4 to 1 watt with a single transistor. This stage then feeds a Wilkinson power divider and it feeds two of these brick devices. Another WPD is used to combine the power. About 75 to 80 watts is possible. We have a prototype that has one brick module (as the IPA) feeding four more, and over 150 watts is possible. We never fully developed the 150 watt high-power version because the single brick PA we build will easily deliver enough drive for any good external 220 PA, however we do have several of the 75 watt versions in service. Can these modules be considered continuous duty if they are properly mounted on a Micor station PA chassis. Absolutely - especially if running one or two modules. In addition, we actually use the MICOR power set control to retain all of its features (SWR protection, power leveling, etc.) The AMP BD that Scott builds has the pass transistor built on it and it is run from the power set control lead that originally went to the MICOR PA. Scott also builds a custom heat spreader that is used to mate the module to the MICOR heatsink. This eliminates the need to machine a flat spot on the heatsink that big enough for the surface of the module. While Scott doesn't advertise these, I feel sure he would sell them individually; they are used in /our/ custom 220 MICOR conversions. The heat spreader is not necessary in a MASTR II conversion, as there are no protruding 'bosses' for the original mounting of the RF power output transistors. The pictures in this document shows the mounting arrangement he has developed: http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbddocs.pdf Good luck and let us know how you make out... Kevin Custer Repeater Builder
[building-repeaters] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Eric, I just swap the modules from a Mobile into the station PA heatsink if I have one die. They are the same modules, different heatsink. I have found that if you back down the last output stage of the exciter a little, the tripler and first stage of the PA is much happier and the PA's will last a lot longer during our hour long plus nets. Doing this I am still able to get well over 75 Watts out of the PA, but DON'T DO IT. 75 WATTS MAX. The other question I have, is have you been retuning the tripler and circulator? If not, that could be where part of your problems are coming from. Good Luck, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kevin, I've been meaning to postabout a similar project, and this prompts me to ask - have you done this to rebuild a UHF amp? I have several dead TLD-1713 UHF 75w PAs, and need a good PA or two at the moment. Rather than messing with trying to find Moto transistors, caps, and Z-matches, I was thinking of stripping the heatsink down, buying two Mx UHF 40-50w modules, and trying to combine them. I was curious as to how they would hold up under continuously linked repeater duty Can you provide some more details on the 'Wilkinson power dividers? I have experience with HF torroid combiners/splitters, but UHF is another animal altogether. Do you sell them with the boards? Is it as simple as mounting the two modules (and the supporting RB circuit boards), the combiner/splitters, and wiring it all up? I'd like to get a UHF one together asap. Thanks Eric KE2D
Fw: [building-repeaters] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversi
John, I will take a look. Thanks a lot, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, WD7F - John in Tucson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Forgot to addI never persued the SWR power reducing beyond the simple divider. Our converstion won't drop power all the way to zero when there's an SWR problem..yet. Once, the controller got confused and keyed the repeater over night at about 60 watts out without a problem. I think it's bullet proof in that respect. de WD7F John in Tucson
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ge uhf high power
You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him, but that was a couple months ago. They are more like 350 Watts. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kb4ptj [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hi i am looking for ge uhf solid state high power 88 splyt 200watts [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ge uhf high power
oops, UHF are 225-250 Watts, it is the VHF that are 350 Watts. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him, but that was a couple months ago. They are more like 350 Watts. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kb4ptj kb4ptj@ wrote: hi i am looking for ge uhf solid state high power 88 splyt 200watts kb4ptj@
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ge uhf high power
Also as Nate said, GE did not make a high power solid state amp. The Mastr II high power stations that I referred to use a normal Mastr II solid state PA to drive a tube amplifier to acheive the 225-250 Watts on UHF or 375 Watts on VHF. If you are not familiar with high power tube transmitters and working with high voltages, stay away from these. They are not for the faint of heart, and the voltages present can be quite deadly. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him, but that was a couple months ago. They are more like 350 Watts. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kb4ptj kb4ptj@ wrote: hi i am looking for ge uhf solid state high power 88 splyt 200watts kb4ptj@
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Kevin Thanks for the information. I figured that if anyone had tried it you would be aware. I was just looking for more than 30 Watts out. Can these modules be considered continuous duty if they are properly mounted on a Micor station PA chassis. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe Burkleo wrote: Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts on the PA board? Yes, the transistors will not make it. Motorola designed it that way. If so what results have you had? I have never seen or heard of anyone that has had any great success with a conversion of the PA, so... , here is a cure: http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html I also recommend the receiver and exciter conversions outlined here (referred to as the 'new method'), as they work better than others on the Internet: http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#220 Regards, Kevin Custer
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, I have several of these in service for 440 MHz amateur use. They are the 225 watt UHF version. Most of the control wiring that connects to the unified chassis is similar. I use the station control module and the squelch gate card. This makes use of all of the proper keyed A- paths for the exciter channel element and keying. This configuration will also provide you with the turn on delay that prevents the transmitter from keying before the tube is all warmed up. This is very important for tube life. I would recommend using the factory station PL encoder and decoder if you have them available. If you decide to use the factory PL boards, make sure the radio is configured for AND squelch. You should be able to retune the PA cavity for 2 Meters, but if you are much below 147 MHz with your transmit frequency, you may need to find a low split 138 - 150 MHz solid state PA board for the PA that is used to drive the tube. The only thing I change in these radios is the coax from the output of the PA to the harmonic filter. I use a piece of 3/8 superflex to replace the factory piece of coax, and the tube PA is much happier. We found the factory coax will get warm when the transmitter is keyed for 15 minutes or longer. I have used both the Arcom and Link-Com controllers and they both work fine with these radios. I did not make it to the shop today, but I will take the digital camera and try and get some photos for you tomorrow. Sounds like you are making progress. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, I will have a look in our Micor VHF high power cabinet when I get to the shop tomorrow. Presently I have a V, a U and a low band Micor high power cabinet in the shop, that we are reading to get all of them up in service before the snow flys. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv n9lv@ wrote: I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts on the PA board? If so what results have you had? Thanks, Joe
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Diamond X-50 NA
John, I have several of these up for repeaters here on the Oregon Coast. They hold up pretty well. I would recommend a top brace if they are in a harsh environment. I like their performance on UHF, they work very well for their size and price. On VHF they of course are a little lacking, and I have found they compare to the performance of one of the single Telewave broadband loops. We have one on a 4000' mountaintop that sees a fair amount of snow and ice and it has survived 2 winters up there so far. Hope this helps, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Mackey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone have any opinions on the Diamond X-50NA? I have an application to use it for a simple repeater on UHF.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF REPEATER ANTENNA IDEAS WANTED
Steve, I have had limited luck in using PVC. The thicker wall tubing is what I prefer to use, but sometimes that is not the best material for UHF antennas. I would stay away from the gray electrical PVC as it can do some strange things with UHF frequencies passing through it. I have not tried using fiber innerduct, but that is an interesting idea. I have some 1 left over on a roll and I will do some testing with it when I get a chance. I would bet that it would work pretty darn good, especially if you were to wrap it in fiberglass like I describe in the next paragraph. If you have some very crafty people that can work with fiberglass, I have taken a piece of thinwall pvc tubing or made a cardboard tube, and then wrapped them in several layers of fiberglass tape and resin for strength and rigidity. Start with a layer of resin, layer of tape, more resin, more tape, more resin, you get the idea, until you are happy. As for the top radiating element, just attach it to the center conductor only. Here is the excerpt from the instructions with the formula to calculate the length. Add a ¼ wave element to the top of the antenna. Use #10 or larger solid wire or similar and solder it to the center conductor only. (I like to use a piece of 1/4 brass brazing rod from the welding shop myself). The length of the ¼ wave element is calculated as follows: 1/4 wavelength radiator = 300 / F / 4 Where F = Frequency in Megahertz 300 / 444 / 4 = .1689 meters or 169 millimeters Here again a piece of the double wall heat shrink tubing over the joint where the center conductor is soldered to the radiating element. When you are all done and happy with the antenna some bees wax or spray foam will hold the coax rigid inside the tube. Let me know if you have any further questions, and let us know how your project comes out, whichever antenna design you choose. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dr. Stephen Andrew Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to all who have replied! Joe, WA7JAW: Can I build one of these in a PVC pipe or in the fiber-type conduit, or inside a 20-foot telescoping crappie pole? Steve, XE1UFO
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF REPEATER ANTENNA IDEAS WANTED
Steve, The coaxial colinear is my favorite home made repeater antenna. I usually try and find a bad commercial antenna and suck the insides out and replace with insides cut to ham frequency. I do not use RG-58 as this article references, I will typically use RG-8 that does not have foam type center insulation. I recommend the use of double wall heat shrink tubing around the joints for more strength. http://www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm The antenna design is also very well detailed in the ARRL Repeater Handbook that was first published in the early 1970's. I have been involved in building several of these for 2 Meter repeaters and am presently in the process of building one for 222 MHz that will go inside a Stationmaster shell that was originally made for 170 MHz. 73, and good luck. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dr. Stephen Andrew Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dear Friends: Our club (Radio Club Querétaro, XE1RCQ)is in the process of putting together a UHF repeater for our authorized frequency of 438.150. At the moment we only have a Ringo-type antenna, and are looking for ideas for more efficient home-made antennas for this purpose. I tried several Google searches, and only came up with a few trillion commercial UHF antennas. Our system at the moment is quite simple, and consists of two Motorola GM300 radios, with a Celwave duplexer. Thanks in advance for your kind assistance. Steve, XE1UFO, RCQ president Santiago de Querétaro, Mexico
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TX-RX 66-88 MHz Cavity to 6 Meters
Burt, Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try when I get back to working on that project. I will let you know how successful we were. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a few Sinclair LB cans (from a LB hybrid ring duplexor) some years ago that were in the 30-40MHz range. They had a can about 12in long by about 3 inches in diameter silver soldered to the moveable end of the resonator. Removing these with an acetylene torch raised the frequency by about 10MHz (ie 35MHz went to 45MHz) in the center of its tuning range. Adding such a can or tophat capacitor to your cans should lower their frequency by the same percentage. I also had a high band VHF can that tuned the aircraft band that had a similar can on it except that it was only 2in long. More like a cup. Removing that raised the range to 132 -150 or more. The diameter of the added can appeared to be about 2-1/2 to 3 times the diameter of the resonator. The length would be whatever was required to achieve the end result. Any of these tophat capacitors will lower the Q of the can but at 6m you have lots of spare leeway with 1 mHz separation. Burt VE2BMQ Has anyone ever converted a 66-88 MHz Tx-Rx BpBr cavity for us on 6 Meters? I came across 2 of these and I could get them down to 57 MHz but that was about it. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Desktrac UHF 40 Watts Repeater Default Archive
You do realize that there are 2 seperate pieces of software that is required to program the Desktrac repeaters. One is for the front panel and the other is for the radios. There us a small switch on the front panel that chooses which programming mode you are in. Just to be clear as to what you are looking for here, if I am understanding this correctly, you are needing a default configuration file for the front panel setup for repeater mode. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Camilo So [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi I hope some one on this group can help me on a Desktrac repeater default archive, What I mean is I am trying to put a Desktrac repeater together, from my junk, but I need to program the front panel of the Desktrac repeater (not a base unit), if only I have the model number to clone it to my Desktrac, I know how Motorola restricts there software, but this is not the software I am asking for, its the default (ARC) or archive. Thanks. 73 W4CSO
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Build your own
Dave, I am not sure what your intended use of the repeater is, but you have gotten lots of good advice. If you are looking for something to use at your or a buddy's house, you can get by with a lot less investment than if it is going up on a mountain top somewhere. As was mentioned UHF or 900 MHz is a lot less costly to get started with and you might be able to find a frequency. Duplexers cost penny's on the dollar when compared to a VHF unit. For simplicity if you are wanting to use a pair of mobiles, I would recommend Motorola SM50, SM120 or GM300 radios. With the 16 pin plugs, they are a direct plug-in to any of the ham controllers, or use one of the cables available on EBay between them and you don't need a controller, if you are just doing a back yard thing. A lot of people are particular about antennas when used with a duplexer and for good reasons. A duplexer can present certain challenges for the antenna system and feedline that do not show up under normal base station use. The other concern is how well the radio's transmitter performs into a hi-q circuit like a duplexer presents to the transmitter. Not all transmitters are happy transmitting into a duplexer directly, that is where a circulator or isolator comes in, it presents a nice 50 ohm load to the transmitter. As was also mentioned, heliax or good double shielded silver plated braid for cables and silver plated connectors and adapters are a must, especially for UHF and 900 MHz and above. Good tight mechanical connections on all antenna mounting hardware and tower/mast is a must. Loose or rusty and corroded metal parts, nuts bolts..etc on the tower or mast can produce noise and possibly desense with a duplexer. I mention this again, because this is where I find 90% of problems with amateur repeaters that are performing poorly or not at all. Good luck with your project. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dave Gomberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have long considered building my own 2m repeater out of 2 Icom 2100 or 2200 back to back thru a repeater controller, using a good duplexer and a Comet or Hustler antenna. Here are my questions: 1. Nobody seems to like the Comet or Hustler antennas. Why? I have no ice here, lots of wind tho. 2. Why is a 50w 2m transceiver, derated to 25w and driving a power amp a bad choice? Or is it OK? 3. Any suggestions on how to keep the duplexer cavities affordable? 4. Which repeater controller? Or is that a religious question? Anything else I should be wary of? -- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html -
[Repeater-Builder] TX-RX 66-88 MHz Cavity to 6 Meters
Has anyone ever converted a 66-88 MHz Tx-Rx BpBr cavity for us on 6 Meters? I came across 2 of these and I could get them down to 57 MHz but that was about it. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Source for Telewave Multicoupler FET's
Paul, Our unit was a older version that used a bipolar device as Skipp had mentioned. It made more sense for us to replace the obsolete device with the new updated board. I think the price was around $375. I have it written down at work. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe, If you don't mind me asking, how much was the board? Paul WB5IDM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Source for Telewave Multicoupler FET's
Ken, As always, thanks a lot. Russ, KD7IOP gave Telewave a call after I talked to you, and it looks like we are just going to put one of the new updated preamp boards in our VHF unit that is down. Russ did find out that the preamp board is 50 ohms in and out, so in an emergency, one could get creative if needed. 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 04:13 PM 8/6/2008, Joe Burkleo wrote: Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450? Joe, I have info for you. Give me a call. Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hustler G6 440mhz
Jim, Not a lot of experience with the G-6 except for one site. It did work OK, but we did replace it with a X-50NA this year, and it seemed to gain a little more coverage. We have had excellent results here in the NorthWest with the Diamond X-50NA antenna's. We have them on some pretty rugged sites and they work very good on UHF. We will snub the top of the antenna if they are on a site that gets a lot of wind or ice. We have them on sites that are 4000' and higher and they survive very well. Like was said in an earlier post, lot of bang for your buck for a 100 dollar bill. HRO has been real good about having them in stock for us. Good Luck with your project. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, jimmyrtle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We are considering replacing a damaged antenna on a 440 machine. Anyone have any comments on using a Hustler G6. The antenna will be exposed to normal weather conditions for the northeast.( wind ice...etc..) Jim
[Repeater-Builder] Source for Telewave Multicoupler FET's
Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450? Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Source for Telewave Multicoupler FET's
Ken, Thanks a lot. I will give you a call when I get a chance. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 04:13 PM 8/6/2008, Joe Burkleo wrote: Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450? ---As a Telewave Dealer, I'll check for you tomorrow, Joe Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Source for Telewave Multicoupler FET's
Skipp and Ken, Thanks for the info. The unit that is in need of a new device is a TWR8-150. Not sure of the vintage. It is most likely at least 5 years old. Thanks, Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm also a Telewave Dealer... The answer depends on the generation/age and specific model of your Telewave Multi-coupler. Some have/had bipolar transistors, some had special what I call quasi low noise FET type devices and I believe some of the newer Telewave Preamps should now be using Phempt devices. Your best bet would be to open it up and snap a picture to share with whom ever helps you find the replacement device. cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450? Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: WTD - VHF RX antenna splitter
Mike, If all you are looking at is 2 ports, I usually just use 2 4 pass cans with the correct length cables to a T fitting for the antenna input. Of course the output of the 2 pass cans go to the inputs of the two receivers. You should use pass cans behind the multicoupler anyway for isolation. Just thought I would throw that out as a possible solution. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings. I'm looking for preferrably a 2 port VHF (for 144.8x) antenna splitter (aka multicoupler). A 4 port would work if that is all we can find. Please email direct if you have such an item. Thanks Mike/W5JR
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, OK, now back to where we started from, but much better. I have a bunch of questions for you. 1. Do you have a local speaker hooked up? If so do you have audio out of the speaker in either carrier squelch or PL mode? 2. Do you have repeat audio in carrier squelch mode? I know you do not have repeat audio in PL mode. 3. Have the and squelch jumpers been cut on the audio/squelch card or are they still in place? 4. Does the repeater key up in either carrier squelch or PL mode, or in both modes? If I think I understand the problem correctly, the radio keys up and repeats in PL mode, it just does not pass repeat audio, but it works fine in carrier access or Pl disable mode. Please correct me if I am wrong here. 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, changing out the backplane got the repeater working... along with double-checking the jumper settings one the cards. I did find a couple of jumpers that needed to come out on the Station Control card, and I'm sure that helped. The machine still does not pass audio, so now that it is working in the way it is supposed to be configured, next thing to do is chase down the audio path. Mark - N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, Sorry to hear you are still having problems. The Micor series of radios were made for many years and yes, there were several variations of most every module made. That is one of the reasons that there was a complete manual set delivered with each radio. Without a whole drawer full of manuals, these can be a beast to work on, especially when you are reassembling units from pieces of different radio combinations. I checked my community repeater manual and it does not cover the backplane board that you have either. I sometimes have to do what you are doing where you do not have a complete station to start with and it is not uncommon for us to have 4 or 5 manuals spread all over the bench to find info on all the different modules and boards we are working with. If the original customer was large enough, Motorola would supply a custom configuration made to their needs or specs along with a special set of manuals that only covered that configuration. Could be that you have stumbled across something like that also. If you leave the line driver card out, which is fine to do in your application, make sure you set the jumpers accordingly, to be a non-wireline repeater station. The jumper settings chart can be a little confusing, so make sure you are reading the proper lines on the chart. Does you control and applications manual and your community repeater manual have the same station control and squelch gate modules listed in them? Good Luck, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, the MICOR Community Repeater manual supplement arrived today, and I've been going through it with the proverbial fine-toothed comb. I replaced most of the jumpers I originally removed from the backplane. (According to the jumper matrix in the CR manual, they needed to be IN whereas the regular repeater indicated they needed to be OUT.) I also went through the various cards necessary and checked jumper settings for those. This is where I ran into my next problem(s). First off, the repeater does NOT need a Line Driver card for Community Repeater operation. I does need: Time Out Timer Station Control Squelch Gate Master Decoder and 4-User Control modules. I went through the manual to set the jumpers as necessary, but ran into a snag with the Squelch Gate. Both manuals (Community Repeater and Control and Applications) identify the Squelch Gate card as TLN4662A. I have about a dozen SG cards and they're all TLN8772A, of various vintage. Parts are laid out differently than what is shown in the manuals, and I can't even find some of the jumpers referenced in the manuals on the cards. Specifically, I can't seem to find JU-12, JU-14 or JU-15... if they're on the card, they aren't very marked well. Anyway, I've actually take a step backward with this project, in that once I replaced the jumpers on the backplane, I lost repeater operation with the Line Driver card. (In a way, I kind of expected that, though.) I was able before to key the repeater with the proper input freq and PL, now I cannot. Also if I key the station with the PTT switch on the Station Control card, it does not drop when PTT is released. My first question is: Is there a different version of the Squelch Gate card that I need, or is the TLN8772A a direct replacement? If it is a direct replacement card, does anyone have the manual page(s) for this particular card so I can get the jumper settings and locations picked out? My thinking at the moment is that I still don't have the jumper configuration correct on the SG card... Next, the manual calls out yet a different part number for the backplane: TCN1211A. To reiterate, my backplane is a TRN6421A. I'm getting more confused as time goes on. If Motorola issued upgrades/revisions for the various control cards and the backplane, the documentation isn't contained in any of the manuals I have. My backplane is apparently properly labeled for card placement (according to the Community Repeater manual) but for whatever reason, I'm not making any progress.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, I think you have a good idea about starting fresh with an unaltered board. That would be my next move. It could not hurt to grab another set of cards also. These are old enough that I have found some bad caps and a bad transistor or two when going through my extra cards. What I will usually do is get a station working and then substitute boards and find out if they are good or bad. I have a box that the bad boards go into and then I fix them as time allows. You maybe fighting two or three different problems. You might also try a different audio/squelch board or two. I have had these cause goofy problems with cor/PL signals and repeat audio. This may not be your problem, but just gives you another place to look for missing signals. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Joe. Yep, unfortunately they reference the same modules in both manuals. And I am trying to configure the jumpers for a non-wireline RT station. I wonder if I may have screwed something up when I took most of the jumpers out of the backplane (all except JU-5) and them put them back. Since I have an ample supply of backplane boards (I have 14 of these chassis here) maybe I'll just swap out the backplane for one I haven't performed surgery on yet... That MAY eliminate some of the problems, since these stations were on the air previously. From there, I can start to work with the cards. I know that another local ham has yet another set of MICOR manuals - maybe his manuals reference my newer cards. If not, I'm not sure where I'll turn next. If anyone else here has a MICOR Community Repeater in operation, please give me a shout out!! I'd like to check jumper settings against what you have. I've got to be missing something somewhere. (Kevin, you still haven't commented yet...) Mark - N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater Controller with A/D voltage readout and Control Outputs
Jim, On our commercial and amateur sites we use the Arcom RC-210 controllers for both amateur and commercial repeaters, as well as total site monitoring. We have them reading voltage and charging current on our solar sites with voice announcements. Monitoring the AC power and starting and stopping the generator, along with voice announcements when the generator is running and stopped. We also have voice announcements for door alarms and temperature readout. These controllers have one of the best sounding user DVR record and playback audio that I have heard, in addition to the factory vocabulary that is built in. I do highly recommend their software to program the controller with the computer. Here is the basic features from page 4 of the Hardware manual. Introduction Congratulations on your purchase of the RC210 Repeater Controller. By harnessing the power of state-of-the-art RISC microprocessor technology in a sophisticated 3 port design and the resulting reduction in required components, the RC210 provides your repeater with a rugged, reliable and expandable controller with features usually found in controllers costing hundreds of dollars more. The RC210 continues the Arcom tradition started with our RC-110 Repeater Controller by making updates to the operating firmware available for free to purchasers of the RC210. As updates become available, they are posted on our website and available free of charge to any RC210 owner. Installing updates requires no more than a computer running Windows 95/98/NT/2000/XP with a serial (or USB) port. With the RC210, you just download the free update and upload it into your RC210 in minutes! Features ! Three port design - Each port may be operated independently with its own hang time, ID's and Courtesy Tones. ! Selectable Monitor Mute/Monitor Mix audio for each link port and selectable cross linking ability between ports ! Each port may be defined as half or full-duplex ! 240+ word vocabulary in real human speech. May be used in programmable ID's or other messages ! On-board DVR for recording your own custom messages over the air (may be used in any programmable message) ! Fully programmable command codes up to 8 digits each ! Automatic ID rotation with Initial and Pending ID's and timers. ! Programmable CW messages programmable dual-tone and speed, on a per port basis ! Gated audio on all ports with selectable de-emphasis - you may tap directly off the discriminator without regard for squelch action or de-emphasis on any port ! True sine wave microprocessor generated tones ! Use of low-noise, high-impedance JFET op amps for exceptional audio quality ! 40 Command Macros that can store up to 15 commands each, including other macros ! 50 Command Macros that can store up to 4 commands each, including other macros ! Each port has its own dedicated DTMF decoder ! DTMF Pad Test where entered digits are read back by the controller ! Selectable CTCSS/Carrier squelch modes on all ports. ! General purpose timers for specially timed events ! Each port may be defined to require CTCSS or not require CTCSS for DTMF operation ! Selectable Enable/Disable of DTMF on all ports ! Selectable polarity of COS and CTCSS signals on each port ! Selectable CTCSS encode control output with programmable delay dropout for controlling external CTCSS encoder on each port ! Frequency agile Remote Base operation, including transmitter offset and CTCSS selection. ! 8 A/D inputs for voltage or current measurements with 6 custom definable meter faces ! 3 auxiliary audio inputs for use with a weather receiver, autopatch or other external audio source ! A/D inputs protected against over or negative voltages ! Scheduler with 20 setpoints ! Choice of DB9 or RJ45 connectors for radio port connection. ! 5 digital inputs ! LED displays of controller status ! 7 user controllable digital outputs for remote control - expandable to 23 ! Programmable timers, including hang time, timeout and ID interval ! Hardware watchdog timer ! Fan control with programmable shut off timer http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ I think they are worth a look. 73, and good luck. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am looking for a controller for a commercial application that will allow control of several output relays and will allow readout on the repeater of a voltage level via voice. (As well as control the repeater) Rather than pour through all the specs on line, I thought I would query the group for suggestions for one with this capability. Thanks - Jim W5ZIT
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, It sounds like you may be missing the modifications on the interconnect boards for and squelch. If the audio/squelch board has been modified for and squelch and the interconnct board changes have not been made, you will have repeat audio in PL Disable or carrier squelch mode and no repeat audio in PL Mode. Not sure if that is your problem, but it is one of the many things that will cause no repeat audio in the PL Enable Mode with a Micor station. I do not have my manuals in front of me, but this information is in the supplement for the station chassis that covers the backplane and the accessory cards. As was also suggested the Community Repeater manual will be your best friend, if you are going to be running the station in that configuration, as there are several differences between a standard repeater configuration and the community repeater configuration. If everything is properly configured the 4 user PL card should do both PL tone decode and encode. If you have trouble finding the information let em know and I can dig out my manual when I am in the shop tomorrow. Good luck with your project. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OK gang, I'm working on another project and have run into a wall. I have a UHF MICOR Unified chassis station that I am reassembling with the thought of putting it on GMRS once finished. Yes, this station was TOTALLY disassembled and scattered to the four winds - chassis, PA and some cards came from one place, more cards from another, yet more cards from yet another place, power supply and cabinet from yet another... I have the station reassembled to the point where it is operating in that it repeats (keys up on receipt of signal and PL) but it does not pass audio. And yes, I am resurrecting it on the freqs it was originally tuned before I make any changes. Right now it's on 462./467. and has one 4-User Control Module (PL decode) card in the chassis. No PL on TX yet... The station has the following cards in the chassis (listed from right to left): Line Driver Station Control Module Squelch Gate Time Out Timer Master Decoder 4-User Control Module Card Am I missing any other cards? I know these stations have jumpers all over the place - backplane, cards, etc. - that all needed to be configured properly for the thing to work the way it should. I have the manuals, but I am stumped. I know I'm missing something, SOMEWHERE - my problem is: WHAT and WHERE? Besides, the manual's diagram for the backplane shows jumpers numbered in a certain sequence and the backplane I have has them numbered differently - they're in the same locations, but numbered differently. (For example JU1 and JU3 are opposite when the manual is compared to the one I have in the shack.) I've also gone to the Repeater-Builder web site, but those pages seem to refer more to the conversion of the station or cards rather than making it work as designed. Maybe once I get it going, then I can think about conversion of the cards that Kevin referenced... Anyway - as far as the backplane goes, I think all jumpers except for JU5 should be OUT. Am I correct? (I currently do not plan on any remote control of the station, but later down the road maybe tone remote operation...) And what about the Line Driver, Squelch Gate and/or Station Control Module cards jumpers? Any ideas? (Kevin, you're the MICOR guru...) Thanks, Mark - N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, I agree with Eric, you are aways away from cutting and hacking on traces until we can identify exactly which backplane board you are working with. Most of the time that I have seen the TRN prefix, it usually has been tied to the PURC series of radios. Are all of your backplane boards that you have, this same model number? On the backplane board what are the cards slots labeled as? Knowing this information may help identify what the original station service type was. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OK - I'm now home from work and have had an opportunity to look at the station. The backplane has the following number printed on it: TRN6421A Motorola parts identifies it as: BD INTCONN --- *This item has been cancelled This is all I can seem to find about it right now... And Eric, these are the manuals I currently have: Control and Applications Manuals: 68P81025E60-E and 68P81025E60-F MICOR Base and Repeater Stations Manuals: 68P81025E50-G (12W to 75W stations) and 68P81039E55-A (200W and 225W stations) Mark - N9WYS
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Mark, I think Eric is correct in that you have got a community repeater chassis. These can be a handful to get properly jumpered and configured. If you can not find a TLN5644A backplane board, this will be a little more of a challenge. I think you are in a holding pattern here until your community repeater manual shows up. (I think I remember you saying you had one coming.) Then it will all become clear as mud and the pieces will start falling into place for you. I will go through my manuals tomorrow and verify what Eric and I are thinking. 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mark, With the capability to have 16 users, I am guessing that it is more likely to be a community repeater station than a PURC station. Of course, there may be components that are common to both. Since you already have the manuals you need for a basic Micor repeater, you might consider swapping the TRN6421A backplane for a standard TLN5644A backplane. That way, you can use readily-available modules, and not worry about finding new manuals. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: KL Duplexer (Possibly 220 MHz?)
Bob, That is good news. I thought your 8 can set would tune up much better than the 6 can set I did. I had to mount the one I did on it's side also. I just got a piece of angle aluminum from the scrap pile and made a rack mount for the duplexer, so that it laid in the rack horizontally. I have seen them mounted in racks vertically, but they take up a lot more real estate in the rack when mounted that way. Good luck and nothing wrong with a back yard repeater. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe: Thanks for the info. I did a cheap 'n' dirty tune up with the service monitor and my DC-to-light receiver and was able to get the beast to behave surprisingly well. It required backing out the tuning screws far enough so that the duplexer will now have to rest on its side, but I think it'll work. Of course, there's virtually NO 220 activity here in Katrina-ville and I can't find a decent site for yet another of my repeater projects, so this may end up being a backyard repeater. Again, thanks for the info and sorry for the long delay in acknowledging your response. 73 de K5IQ Bob
[Repeater-Builder] Re: How to figure cable length for duplexer?
Gary, Duplexer of choice for me is the Sinclair Q2330E. I have had very good results with these on our 75 Watt VHF Micor stations and we use a Angle Linear preamp on the receivers. In your situation where you have a brand new Telewave, I would be tempted to call up Telewave and order 2 more cavities and the necessary pieces to turn your TPRD1554 into a TPRD1556. I don't think you will be disappointed with the end results. The second alternative is to get your hands on one or two of the older 12 Motorola or GE pass cans and insert them between the duplexer and the receiver and transmitter. To answer your question, the difference between 77db and 90-100db of isolation is like night and day, especially if you are using a preamp on the receiver and are running 25 watts or more power with the transmitter. If your receiver has a good tight helical coil front end, sometimes you can get by with a little less duplexer if everything else is perfect. I also can not stress enough to use Heliax for your feedline and also for your interconnect cables if possible. I use Andrew LDF for the feedline and Andrew FSJ superflex for all the interconnect jumpers. If you do need flexible jumpers made out of coax, use the silver plated double shielded cable with silver plated connectors. As has been said here many times over, whatever you do, please save your self a lot of trouble and greif and do not use any LMR cable for anything near a repeater or duplexer. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, garyp609 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What duplexer would you recommend? I was expecting better results. Is there a huge difference in 77db versus 100db isolation besides the price? Performance wise. Kinda wish I would have done my homework before buying the TPRD1554. Running 25 watts here. What is your duplexer of choice? Thanks 73's Gary
[Repeater-Builder] Re: KL Duplexer (Possibly 220 MHz?)
Bob, One of the local guys bought one of these off Ebay a couple years ago. It had six cavities - three per side. I was able to retune it to his 220 repeater frequency. It is a notch type duplexer. I was barely able to get enough isolation for his repeater which was a converted GE MVP with a ARR preamp and one of the Toshiba power modules for the PA. Your eight can unit should be much better. I think the 1.6 MHz spacing is about as close as you can go. In the research that I did at the time I think I came up with that these were made for 2 MHz spacing. It should tune pretty good if you can find a service monitor or spectrum analyzer with a tracking generator. Good luck. If you decide you no longer want it, let me know and I may have another ham here in the area that is interested. 73, Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have any info on this duplexer set made by KL Microwave? Eight 11 tall, 3-3/4 diamter black aluminum cans in a 16 wide aluminum frame--four cylinders per side. On top of the frame at one side is a BNC antenna port, at the other end of the frame there are RX and TX BNCs. The interconnecting/branch cables are hard metal tubes (about 1/8 diameter a la mobile duplexers) that snake across the top of the assembly. Each cylinder has what appears to be an inspection port on top covered by an adhesive dot; lifting the dot seems to give a slight glimpse at what appears to be the coupling loop. Tuning appears to be from the bottom via a slotted screw held by a nut. The set shows a number 50140 which may or may not be a model number. While KL are still in business, they don't seem to keep info on older or obsolete products. If this is, indeed, a 220 MHz unit (or close enough for ham work), it will have been worth the $20 hamfest gamble; otherwise... Tnx es 73 de K5IQ Bob
[Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF PURC Stations Needed
I am looking for Micor PURC 225 or 250 Watt UHF stations. We had a fire at a repeater site and lost a large collection of Micor Stations and accessories. I had 1 PURC station on the air in the building and another one stored there. If anyone near the West Coast has any of these they are willing to part with, or know of any, please email me off list. Stations with 900 or 72 MHz receivers are OK also. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
