Ah…thanks Mike, that’s useful information to know. Part of me suspected this.
Maybe I’ll just go ahead and preemptively order up enough for all four and be
done with it. On rigs like the K2 I do indeed tend to ride the RF Gain...
Thanks!
73,
Dave - N5DCH
> On Jul 25, 2022, at 8:01 PM,
Hi Dave,
You'll need to replace that pot. I've got the same problem
in my K2/10, and it's getting progressively worse. The
issue is not solvable with contact cleaner - I recall older
posts on this same problem, and the advice was the
same: replace the pot. Some commenters suggested
ordering
Greetings!
I now have a K2. 8-)
I notice that when I have the RF gain full clockwise, radio works fine, but
then if I so much as touch it to move it counterclockwise, it completely mutes
out the radio as if it were already fully counterclockwise. Then as I move it
farther, it resumes
Don’t attempt to use a standard RS232 cable with the K2. You should be
using a specially made cable which is shown in the manual.
73 Ian
On 27 Feb 2021 at 21:25:28, Dave Sublette wrote:
> Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2? Should have asked this before I
> bought the cable. My K2
How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of
your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some
of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your
K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2
suffers
Thanks for the info. I will have to make up that short cable! Fortunately
my K2 is the B level.
73,
Dave
On Sat, Feb 27, 2021 at 5:10 PM Geert Jan de Groot wrote:
>
> > Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2? Should have asked this before
> I
> > bought the cable. My K2 has worked with a
Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2? Should have asked this before I
bought the cable. My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
So I went with the KUSB. When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
Power
Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2? Should have asked this before I
bought the cable. My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
I had to ditch the keyspan because BiG Sur doesn't have a driver and
Keyspan doesn't
Dave :
Thanks for asking this question. As a K2 owner with the KAF2 installed, I have
also often wondered what I am missing out on
by not having the KDSP2 installed instead. From the responses to your
question, the consensus seems to be that it is well worth the upgrade
if you primarily
, 2015 11:14 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?
Yes and the K2 is still a very competitive rig,
even after 16 years, Michael! I now have the K3
and a KX3, but given all the TLC that I put into
building the original (#380) K2
Yes and the K2 is still a very competitive rig,
even after 16 years, Michael! I now have the K3
and a KX3, but given all the TLC that I put into
building the original (#380) K2 and all the later
add-ins/ons, I plan to keep it.
I much preferred the KDSP2 to the KAF2 so had no
second
A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option. He asked
me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2. This
got me to thinking: I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed. My friend
works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes. Is the DSP board
David,
The KAF2 is mainly for CW use. It provides a great peaking filter at
the frequency that you have set it to (presumably your sidetone pitch).
It also has a low pass filter that is in-circuit at all times. That can
reduce band noise hiss for all modes.
The KDSP2 also provides
When I built my K2 a year and a half ago, I also had to decide between bare K2
vs KAF2 vs KDSP2, and went through the archives. In the end I went with the
KDSP2, but some of the points I considered along the way:
Bare K2:
- built-in IF filters do work very well, but I read some reports that
David,
My K2 is long gone, but I can tell you about my experience with the DSP module.
I operate mainly CW, and added the DSP option after having the K2 for over a
year. For me, it was a mistake. The radio didn't sound as good as it did before
adding it. I wound up taking it out and selling
I thought it was. A bit complicated to get
adjusted just right, but there is/was a how-to doc
at the Elecraft website which you might want to
read, David.
I say "thought" because now I use my K3 and KX3,
though I still have my all-up K2; it's a keeper at
this point.
73, Phil W7OX (in
I would not have upgraded to the KDSP2. Not for the performance, because
although I'm mainly a CW operator, I could probably benefit from it.
My main objection to the KDSP2 is user interface. The K2 was not designed
for the KDSP2 in the first place as can be seen in how complicated it is to
set
Definitely true re user interface. But if you get
it set up in a way that works well for you, then
not much need to tweak.
I don't often change settings in my K3 DSP either.
73, Phil W7OX
On 11/4/15 7:35 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:
I would not have upgraded to the KDSP2. Not for the
Louis,
That is normally a result of one or more unsoldered connections or a
poorly soldered connections on either Front Panel U1 or the LCD itself.
Check the LCD leads first - you might want to solder them from the top
of the board if you do not see solder wicked up onto the leads.
U1 is a
Hello all:
Started building a K2 back in 2005, and had to set it aside. So now I’m back at
it after a LONG break. ☺
Anyway….
I’m at the point of first power up, and everything checks out except for one
thing: I have two (vertical) LCD segments that are not lighting up (where the
“L” would be
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Envoyé le : Jeudi 21 mars 2013 23h07
Objet : Re: [Elecraft] K2 question
Christophe,
Look on the other side of that crystal envelope (side opposite the white
label). You should find a handwritten number like 3.6. That is the
number that you will need.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3
hello list,
it says this on page 54 of the book
The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
Record the number here: ___. (This identified the tested
frequency of the crystals, and can be used in aligning filters.
on my bag is registered 4.913MHZ, have I understood
Christophe,
Look on the other side of that crystal envelope (side opposite the white
label). You should find a handwritten number like 3.6. That is the
number that you will need.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/21/2013 5:13 PM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
hello list,
it says this on page 54 of the
Bonjour Christophe,
That's correct.
Bonne chance!
73,
Peter
K2 #4837
Op 2013-03-21 22:13 schreef Christophe F8ACF-56:
hello list,
it says this on page 54 of the book
The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
Record the number here: ___. (This identified the
I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)
I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid
Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I
have some questions.
I think that I must have toggled something off as I
Don,
Welcome to the Elecraft list. You must be posting properly, your post
made it to the list.
When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a tone.
During a TUNE, the basic K2 (no KAT2) displays the power output as
measured with a simple diode RF detector. That power
I agree, the KAT2 is the bomb!
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 10, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Don,
Welcome to the Elecraft list. You must be posting properly, your post made
it to the list.
When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a
Thanks to Don and Robert for the quick and thorough responses about setting up
the DSP filters. I will experiment with the settings now that I understand a
little bit better.
On Jan 30, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Kevin,
Usually the KDSP default filter widths work fine, I would
Hello from Kevin, KK4LSG, in Seaford, Virginia. I recently completed my
beloved K2 and have been enjoying getting on the air with CW as much as
time will allow. I am a new operator, receiving my license in the fall of
2012. I built the elecraft KDSP2 audio filter a few weekends ago, and have
been
Kevin,
Usually the KDSP default filter widths work fine, I would suggest that
you leave CW AFIL1 set for LoPass and normally use the IF filters for
general use. When you encounter QRM, then first narrow the IF filter,
and then if still needed, start down the AFIL steps to resolve the
Kevin...
Don's advice is excellent and reflects his many-faceted expertise with
the K2. He repaired mine a while ago after I had reached the end of my
line with the unit, and his advice here is always spot on.
I would offer a comment on Don's very last bit that less than 200 Hz is
seldom
hello all,
control board on K2, there P7 he must put the rider in a unique position to
test or not to wear?
there is nothing to indicate on this jumper, so I would ask.
during assembly
K2 # 7369
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56
__
Christophe,
That header is to select the input to the internal K2 voltmeter. If you
are using that sincle wire probe that the manual instructs you to build,
you will put the jumper on the two pins marked EXT, but normally you
will place it on the pins marked INT
Note, if you have th ejumper
Objet : Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question
Christophe,
That header is to select the input to the internal K2 voltmeter. If you
are using that sincle wire probe that the manual instructs you to build,
you will put the jumper on the two pins marked EXT, but normally you
will place it on the pins marked
According to the manual and having done this before, while in CW mode holding
the Store button then selecting your message number (1 through 9) will allow me
to record a CW message to that numbered memory. Now when I hold STORE and
select the number the K2 returns back to the frequency display
I want to thank all of you for the outpouring of comments and suggestions
regarding the K2. I did not realize all the options available and you all
have provided me with good information to evaluate making my selection.
As mentioned to some, my goal is to get down to one main radio (besides
Alan...
I have the K2/100 as my exclusive radio. It has served all my needs
admirably. Other radios are no doubt better, but only marginally. The
100w amp can be swapped out for QRP when that mode is desired. I operate
virtually 100% cw and in this mode, it's a very serviceable radio. And,
as
Hi, Alan...
My history with these radios is as follows: (1) a few years back, I
bought a K2/10 CW only as a kit for therapy on manual dexterity (chemo
badly damaged my peripheral sensitivities). I put it together and used
it for a while, then added first the ATU, then the 100 watt amp and
Of course you'll make more contacts with 100 watts than with 10 watts, but
10 watts, or less, is plenty of power to make lots of QSO's much of the
time. How much power one feels is necessary is a very personal decision. We
often joke about it, but there are those who truly consider 100 watts, or
Hi Alan,
I also operate mostly CW with just a little SSB. I have the KPA100 but, I
find that most of my operating is done at 10 watts or less. For me, operating
SSB at ten watts is a blast. In fact, I had a SSB contact with Aruba the
other night with just ten watts.
Ten watts is quite
Hey Alan.
You could always do what I am doing.
I am building the K2/10 with the internal tuner and other add-on's for
portable use and I am also building the external antenna tuner in a second
enclosure with the 100w amp. When I am not using it portable I just hook up
the tuner/amp to make it a
QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and
occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or
do you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both
CW (90%) and SSB (10%).
Do those of you who have or had the
on whether you really like a through hole
soldering kit. If yes, go for K2.
TNX 73,
Johnny VR2XMC
從︰ ardujen...@aol.com ardujen...@aol.com
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2011年07月20日 (週三) 12:10 PM
主題︰ [Elecraft] K2 Question
QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base
The basic 15w K2 w/ internal ATU is my primary rig and, as a mostly
CW op, completely meets my needs. My contesting partner, Ki7el, runs a
40m MFJ on sideband, and we do just fine together. Personally, we love
the ability to pack our gear in a pair of laptop bags and be on the air
with no
R Thompson wrote:
I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
impressions are. I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
longer sounds natural. So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.
Thanks for all the replies,
that settles it for me, as I haven't enjoyed my own experiences
with DSP, I'll order the KAF2. And I'll consider the anti-ringing
modification.
Ron VE8RT
On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:32 -0700, Bill W4ZV wrote:
R Thompson wrote:
I would like to
Hello, Ron...
In past years I used my K2, my Flex 3000 (both sold, now) and my K3 on
one or another of the digital modes, e.g. CW and PSK31 for the most
part, but PSKxx (xx31), Olivia, etc. as well. I would like to speak in
defense of these modes and in support of Elecraft's ability to run
You're not alone -- this is a common tough decision.
I went through this exercise, trying both the KAF2 and the KDSP2, including
side by side comparisons between them. Sounds like you already found your
answer, but if there's any remaining uncertainty I'll be glad to go into
detail offline (will
Ron,
One thing that I forgot to mention is that even though I like the DSP in the
K2, I still use an external analog audio filter. Sometimes it helps and
sometimes not. I'm not completely sold on DSP as it now stands. The
filtering is great but, the denoiser, as most denoisers that I have
Ron,
I opted to include the KAF2 option when building my K2/100 rather than the
DSP option, and have found that the KAF2 audio filter is a worthwhile
addition to the receiver. FWIW I use a sidetone (beat note) between 350 and
400 Hz when copying CW, and when there is a lot of on frequency QRM
The comments on being able to rag chew in digital modes have been
great. My first few experiences weren't encouraging and I was perhaps
too quick to form an opinion. After I get the K2 up and running on CW,
and then SSB, I'll revisit digital modes of operation and maybe be a
little more
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 8:04 PM, R Thompson ve...@xplornet.com wrote:
I'll revisit digital modes of operation
There's more than just PSK and RTTY, of course. If you haven't tried WSPR or
JT65, check 'em out (just Google on them for a flood of info). They offer
variety and
My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered
yet. There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very
much appreciate some help with them.
The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or
the DSP instead. I'd like to keep current draw
Ron...
The K2 here has all possible options: 160m, nb, ssb, dsp and amp.
Obviously, there's little reduntancy in this list. So, how useful is
each mod? I have no antenna capability on 160m, so aside from some
listening, of little use. Depends on how serious you are about 160m. The
NB at times
Hi Ron!
I just bought a K2 after wanting one for the last few years. I haven't built it
yet, but here is a rundown of what I got:
KNB2-a noise blanker is always nice to have.
K160M-not ideal for QRP, but still it is worth trying.
KAF2-I am mostly a CW guy. My ICOM and Yaesu both have DSP,
Thanks Robert,
that was very helpful. I wouldn't consider myself a CW op, but it
is my preferred mode. My CW is distinguished by 'tick' like random
moments when I can't even send my own call sign right.
I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
impressions
I have an early serial numbered K2 (#1103) which I am running barefoot.
Among other options, I have installed the KI02 and ATU. Those who have
built the earlier models will recall the need to cut some of the the
traces on one of the front panel boards (there are two boards up there -
I
Tom,
You made some cuts and added some wire to the Control Board when adding
the KIO2 if your K2 SN was less than 3000 (the new boards already have
this change installed.
No need to reverse that wiring, just unplug the KIO2 cable and all will
be well.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/28/2011 11:17 PM,
I'm in the process of upgrading my K2/10 (SN 1057) to a K2/100. I am also
finishing up the KAT100 tuner and have a question. The tuner instructions state
to remove C44 from the K2 control board. I have a Revision A control board
without a C44. It also states that if this is the case, a
John,
R7 is needed for the base K2 current sense. You should have changed it
to 1.78 k when you did the A to B upgrade. OTOH, C44 is not used, if
you have any capacitor (to ground) installed that connects to the
emitter of Q11 and one end of R7, remove it, but leave the resistor in.
73,
John,
A 20 Hz mis-tuning of a SSB signal usually will not be noticed, 50 Hz
maybe, and 100 Hz definitely.
So yes, you would normally tune the station until it 'sounds right' and
then transmit. That assumes that you are using the same filter for
transmit and receive.
You can make some
You can adjust the ssb filter by listening to your own voice on the
rig and adjusting the ssb filter to what sounds best to you. To monitor
your own voice set the SSBA option to BAL. Then got to CAL FIL for the
filter you want to adjust and adjust it (a little at a time) while
talking into
Hi - I have been playing with a newly purchased K2/100 (an older 19xx serial
number with numerous factorymods/ updates to 2008 and 2.04P firmware, NB, and
SSB). I am at a disadvantage in that I didn't build it myself and am not
familiar with it under the hood. Road testing the K2 for the 1st
John,
There are several possibilities on the power tripping off (which is what
has happened when you see the Elecraft in the display).
First is that the diodes in the KPA100 wattmeter D16 and D17 have been
damaged by lightning or some other static from the antenna (we will
likely see a number
Hello all,
Is there a way to check the PA transisters in my K2 safely while still
installed?
Thanks in advance.
Dan
af4lb
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Dan,
Safely, yes. With certainty, maybe. Just test them with an ohmmeter as
you would for any NPN transistor - base to collector resistance, base to
emitter resistance - some resistance with the probes in one direction
and no conduction in the other direction.. You may find the resistances
I'm having a bit of trouble with the KIO2 in my K2 and when I was poking
around to see what was what, one of the brass nuts came off of J1 (J1 is the
nine pin jack that sticks out the back of the K2). The two brass nuts were
originally soldered onto J1 before J1 was attached to the KIO2 PC
Tom,
It should be easy to get the nut back on. Remove the assembly from the
K2 - then attach the nut to the shell with either one of the jackscrews
provided or use a chasiss screw. Then re-solder the nut onto the shell
- use a large iron tip with a lot of heat mass. Use more solder than
Greetings.
I have barely used my K2 going on about two years now. It seemed to work
well when I first got it off the person who had assembled it. I got
occasional comments about good audio when operating on SSB. I then
started applying the mods to bring it in line with the post 3000 serial
Kevin,
It is normal to see a higher response touching a random, wire to C6
compared to touching the same wire to W6. The C6 location is a high
impedance point while the W6 and D6 locations are low impedance - the
capacitive dividers (C7,8 and C4,5) reduce the impedance.
The end of a random
Thank you Don, and Tom, for your replies.
Don Wilhelm wrote:
It is normal to see a higher response touching a random, wire to C6
compared to touching the same wire to W6. The C6 location is a high
impedance point while the W6 and D6 locations are low impedance - the
capacitive dividers
Dear oh dear, David, that really is like asking, :How long is a piece of
string?
You will find that the time taken varies enormously, from the
experienced people who have built several K2s to those of us who struck
problems, got disheartened, put everything away for a year or so, only
to get
David,
If he plans 32 to 40 hours for the basic K2, he will be in the
ballpark. Options also take time, but not nearly as long as the base K2.
It is not difficult, but there are many parts. The instruction manual
covers all the details, so if he can solder well and follow written
David,
Forty hours spread over two weeks to build the basic K2 and two small
option boards would be a fair estimate.
It was more fun to build than I expected. The instruction manual is
fantastic, (nearly) all the parts fit perfectly, and the entire project is just
quite clever. Build a
Tue Dec 22 02:10:48 EST David Dunn (VK3DBD) wrote ...
can anyone give an ... idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit ...
David,
It sounds like your friend is more interested in having a K2 rather than
building one. In that case I suggest that he enlist the assistance of a
On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2, can anyone
give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit
Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)
73 David VK3DBD
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Elecraft mailing list
I'll be getting back to PSK31 with my K2 and was wondering if there is a
place to pick up fixed audio output for input into my PC's sound card. It's
been a while but I seem to recall that I used to pick it from from the
external speaker jack which, of course, isn't fixed.
Tahnks in advance
Tom,
Take a look at my website www.w3fpr.com - K2 Fixed Audio Output article.
I used to have kits available, and then had only boards, and then Tom
Hammond modified the board to fit between the Control Board and Front
Panel, and offered boards to do that - check www.n0ss.net to see the
I stand to purchase a K2 with firmware revision 2.02 and I/O Controller
revision 1.02. Is there a pointer to required or recommended upgrades
to bring this unit up to date? Thanks!
Remi, KD0FGD
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Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
Remi Khu wrote:
I stand to purchase a K2 with firmware revision 2.02 and I/O Controller
revision 1.02. Is there a pointer to required or recommended upgrades
to bring this unit up to date? Thanks!
http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#fw
Read the upgrade notes linked from
I am at the first power on test stage of K2 # 6281 and have anomalous
readings. Should be INFO 250 or 7100.0 c
What I get is ELECrAFT followed a few seconds later by 0 ? 50.0 c (or
u,r,etc)
Turning VFO dial does not change frequencies as expected but changes to 1 5
15.1 and other
Hi all,
This question is more to fulfill my curiosity, but maybe it has to
do with the problem I'm experiencing with the PPL reference oscillator in
the synthesiser section.
While trying to debug why I was getting a reading of 190.00 -/+
2KHz in the TP3 PLL reference oscillator test
Will,
Yes, the voltage on U6 24 is a 'red herring'. That is a serial data
line, and while you might observe the +5 volts active signal at times
with a 'scope, much of the time it is inactive and at zero volts.
You can check the operation the data into the DAC which controls the PLL
Have used mine quite a few hours. Mostly over the field day weekend,
but also for general tuning around. Used it for both SSB and CW. I
have not had any frustrations with tuning. I have not used a K1, so
cannot compare. I tend to use the .1 tuning rate, and then back up if I
heard
Frank wrote:
K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
Thank You
Frank
5:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 question
K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and
do use it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it
smooth to use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
Thank You
Just added KDSP2 to my K2 and everything was fine for 1 day.
Now the speaker is dead.headphones work fine. Any connection between the
new addition and no audio. Where should I look? Thanks, Ed
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Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
Ed,
There is no direct relationship, but the audio path does go through the
KDSP2 card, so there may be an unsoldered connection on that card which had
adequate contact to work at first, but has now wiggled loose.
You may want to remove the KDSP2 and put jumpers in to complete the audio
path - 2
Mike,
Yes, you should have full receiver capability (albiet only on 40 meters) at
Test and Alignment II stage.
Check your components and soldering carefully (at least 3 times) - and don't
forget to check for jumpers W1 and W6.
Then do some 'quick and dirty' troubleshooting - try connecting an
89 matches
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