Putting several in parallel on a suitable outboard heatsink is not expensive
and, properly rated, will cater for any load. As with semiconductors, the
trick is to not exceed the junction temperature. As always, follow the
manufacturer's recommendations then add your own fiddle factor. MIL
David Gilbert wrote:
juergen piezo wrote:
A 2nd option could also be a dummy load using one of those very cheap
RF film resistors. This would have to be mounted onto the case for a
heatsink.
John
Metal film resistors are notoriously fragile. They will typically meet
their published
Actually, no ... it isn't the same thing.
In the vicinity of their rated dissipation, semiconductors (at least
their bulk characteristics) and non-film resistors (solid carbon or
wirewound) have a gradual exponential probability of failure with
increasing power dissipation. Metal film
As I said, stay below the rated power and they should work fine. When
they go, they don't go gradually, though. They really are simply fuses
on a heat sink.
As far as their RF characteristics is concerned, no argument from me.
73,
Dave AB7E
Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
David Gilbert
Let me try and clarify. When I wanted to save some parameter setup on a
particular band, I used VM to save the info in the M1 or M2 keys for a
quick update of band information. Now when I use
that function all I get is memory position 00 displayed. Nothing I do gets
me back to the M1-M4 and
Larry K1UO wrote:
Let me try and clarify. When I wanted to save some parameter setup on a
particular band, I used VM to save the info in the M1 or M2 keys for a
quick update of band information. Now when I use
that function all I get is memory position 00 displayed. Nothing I do
I have the rotor on a separate port. SteppIR sells a cable that goes
from the computer to the radio to the control box
(http://www.steppir.com/files/USWebPriceList.pdf #02114).
I can't help with the amp hookup. How does the amp manual say to do it?
FWIW, I use USB to serial cables, and have
John,
What kind of amplifier is it?
73, Ted, W2ZK
John Lally wrote:
How do you connect a K3 to antenna rotator, a computer, a transceiver
controlled amplifier and a stepper transceiver controlled antenna via the
one serial port on the K3?
Thanks.
John
W7JJL
Hi Julian.MEM 0-9 is set to Band Sel
I still go to the bands when I push MV and the keys 1-9 to go to the
programmed bands and M1 or M2 does set the saved parameters for those bands
either cw or ssbBUT...I can no longer add or make changes to the parameters
stored in M1 or M2
Hi Gang,
Had problem with noise clicks while using the width control before this
latest fw upgrade. I thought that this was supposed to be addressed with the
latest fw. I have 3.52 installed and still have clicks in the headphones
when adjusting the width control. I thought it might be caused by
I hear a click when changing between 0.15 and 0.10.
Ignacy
k1tl wrote:
Hi Gang,
Had problem with noise clicks while using the width control before this
latest fw upgrade. I thought that this was supposed to be addressed with
the
latest fw. I have 3.52 installed and still have clicks
Hi Tom,
Yes, after saying I did not hear them I just this moment did hear them in my
out board speaker. Looks like a CW sig needs to be present before I hear
them, but they are very prominent
73 Doug N3QW
- Original Message -
From: tom_k1tl k...@cox.net
To: Doug Alspaugh
Lyle will be contacting everyone who has had any type of audio
artifact to get details. We're converging.
Please don't wait for me to contact you. Please contact me!
I need to know:
1) band, mode, AGC settings, if NR on then NR settings, if AN On, if NB
on then NB settings, if CWT
Lyle will be contacting everyone who has had any type of audio
artifact to get details. We're converging.
Also, if *anyone* has been able to reliably induce this symptom,
*PLEASE* contact me so I can get the details.
73,
Lyle KK7P
And remember both blow faster than any fuse and almost any crowbar circuit
ever made. I too worked in the semiconductor industry.
Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T
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Yes ... I can hear them prominently when using the WIDTH control as
well. I tried both AF-HI and AF-LO, as well as AGC-F and AGC-S, with
the same result. No AFX, no NB, no NR or anything like that, and it
happens in both CW and SSB modes as long as there is a tone present in
the background
I've always found that if you have a loud CW signal present, and you start
narrowing down the passband width just adjacent to them, you get clicks..
That's just codes little way of knocking at the door of the filter... Until you
get narrow enough, or far enough away from their transmission
I agree. Something is not right here.
I just tried the RF gain calibration (3 times) with the Mac K3
Utility. I followed the instructions presented by the program to the
letter. I then proceeded to do the S-meter calibration as specified
in the manual. Immediately after RF gain and
I've always found that if you have a loud CW signal present, and you start
narrowing down the passband width just adjacent to them, you get clicks..
That's just codes little way of knocking at the door of the filter... Until
you get narrow enough, or far enough away from their transmission
I've tried the L-mix-R this weekend. It is good step forward but still, I am
missing one setting. What I would really like, is this:
Ab - Ba
I am writing it like this because I would like the main RX to be normal
level in left ear (A) and reduced level in right ear (a), and Sub RX normal
level
After installing 3.52 i also notice noise clicks when making width adjustments
in SSB CW and Didital mode (Digital-A). I do not have my NB or NR on. This
noise is only present with signals. with no signals there is no noise when
adjusting width.
73
Dave KD1NA
I believe I've discovered a subtle bug in the RF Gain calibration code that
could possibly cause the problem you're describing. Please try this version and
let me know if it solves the problem.
http://sight.net/K3/K3Util/10-27-2009/K3UtilityOSX.zip
(7.5MB)
tnx,
David, W4SMT
I agree.
Hi.
After uploading FW 3.52 I have no power after using 'tune'.
Shifting to another band (or mode) and back give me the power back.
Newer had this problem in earlier versions.
K3# 3238
--
OV1A Jens
Good decisions come from experience. Experience comes from making bad ones
Now that I have my first receiver that actually hears whats on the band (K3
of course) I am in need of some education on cw reception. I have K3 #3397
with 2.7, 1.8 and 400 hz filters. Latest beta.
When tuning away from a cw signal and the tone disappears I continue to hear
clicking (not quite
Re-calibrated a couple more times with this version and all seems to
be working here as advertised!
No ERR returns with the SUB either.
Really appreciate the quick work, David!
73, Gary--W7TEA
On Nov 1, 2009, at 11:47 AM, David Fleming wrote:
I believe I've discovered a subtle bug in the RF
Phil, NS7P, was away this week.
We began the net at 18:00Z, which was an hour earlier today after the time
change, on 14.314.
We closed the net at 18:40 with the following 16 check-ins + NCS. I
apologize if we missed east coast stations as I did not ask for a direct
call to the east from
The on-frequency energy is the transmitter. Might be key clicks,
waveform shape, etc. Note that K3's don't cause this type of problem
on TX.
Transmitters that are improperly aligned or operated are much more
noticeable on the K3 than any other rig I've owned. This is due to
the sensitivity,
Hello Steve:
They are probably not key clicks. Watch your S-meter as you tune away and
you'll likely notice the tone disappear while the meter still shows the
signal at or near maximum strength!
The K3 has two levels of filtering at two different places in the receiver's
signal path. The first
Another couple of points Steve:
Take a look at the recent ARRL reviews of transceivers, the Spectral
display of keying graph shows the K3 to be 10 dB or more cleaner on CW
transmit than most other transceivers. This is synthesiser and general
noise as well as key click sidebands. These spurious
This is not meant to be spam or a mailbox filler nor a trolling expedition.
I simply wanted to say that after so many years after
being licensed (1958) I have not appreciated nor experienced a radio that is
as much fun to operate nor is as excellent as my
K3s. I love the experience of a radio
I've been having trouble calibrating with the Windows version, but
probably I'm doing something wrong. I have an XG-2 connected to the
receive antenna input. Does it really have to be connected to Antenna 1?
Dick, KA1SA
At 04:24 PM 11/1/2009, Gary Tuck wrote:
Re-calibrated a couple more
I've been having trouble calibrating with the Windows version, but
probably I'm doing something wrong. I have an XG-2 connected to the
receive antenna input. Does it really have to be connected to Antenna 1?
Yes. The software was written that way because it is the only antenna
connection
Mark C. Killmon wrote:
Phil, NS7P, was away this week.
We began the net at 18:00Z, which was an hour earlier today after the time
change, on 14.314.
We closed the net at 18:40 with the following 16 check-ins + NCS. I
apologize if we missed east coast stations as I did not ask for a
Builders,
When removing the screws from the cabinet of my K3 to make the IF
sensitivity mod, and the one-wire receiver protection mod, I've run into a
show stopper.
The screw in the middle of the front-most bottom cover is just spinning in
place. This is a factory build, and all the screws
Greg,
Have no fear about being 'chided' for that post. Comments and questions
from all users of Elecraft equipment are entirely welcome here - even
criticisms and recommendations for changes.
If you have been following this reflector over the past year, I am
certain you understand what I am
There is another net coming in just a few minutes. You are more than welcome.
ECN/20 at z on 14050 kHz +/-
Kevin. KD5ONS
-Original Message-
From: Dick Roth, KA1OZ raro...@comcast.net
Sent: Nov 1, 2009 6:26 PM
To: Mark C. Killmon k...@aol.com, Elecraft Reflector
Mark,
It certainly sounds like either the screw itself or the threads on the
K3 are stripped.
Do not take the dremel tool to it. Instead, use a thin tool (like the
point of a knife blade) to insert under the screwhead and pry it upwards
while turning it with a screwdriver. There is no
Mark,
Re-reading that screw location - it may mate with a standoff - so you
may be able to remove the top cover and tighten the screw that fastens
the standoff to the main board. Easy if you have the basic K3, but a
bit more complex if you have the SubRX installed.
73,
Don W3FPR
Mark,
It
Mark C. Killmon wrote:
Builders,
When removing the screws from the cabinet of my K3 to make the IF
sensitivity mod, and the one-wire receiver protection mod, I've run into a
show stopper.
The screw in the middle of the front-most bottom cover is just spinning in
place. This is a
Builders,
Thanks to all who responded with exactly the information I needed. Even more
so, thanks for the grace of all involved, providing the information,
pointing me to the exact references in the manual, and doing so without
labeling me a knucklehead which would not have been inaccurate.
I'm not sure what the middle means here. There are seven screws holding
the front section. Four in the corners thread into 2D fasteners. The others
(one in the center at the rear edge and two on either side of the centerline
near the front) thread into aluminum standoffs.
If it's hard to get
Hi Guys,
Would anyone have a K-3 to Quadra band data cable you would be willing to
part with?
73,
Dick- K9OM
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Hi All,
I recently added an Ameritron ALS-600 amp to my shack. Initially I wasn't
that keen on the ALS-600 because it wasn't QSK. However, I read about a
mod that Phil Salas, AD5X, came up with, and it is cheap and easy. You can
find all the details on Phil's website, www.ad5x.com.
Anyway,
Had teh same happen to me two days ago.
I unscrewed the other half cover and secured the standoff with pliers. It is
possible that my screw was too long.
Ignacy
Mark C. Killmon wrote:
Builders,
When removing the screws from the cabinet of my K3 to make the IF
sensitivity mod,
My radio has had this same issue... I found that the screw in question
is a common issue on my rig too. I found that for a while I just put
that screw in lighter and it would come out easier.
The issue for me is that the screw connecting the stand off to the
mainboard loosens and then the
Good Evening,
Both nets were run during noisy band conditions. When a KX1 and a K1 give
the strongest signals one has to wonder what is happening. Scanning the check
in list I notice something odd. There are KX1s, K1s, and K3s, where have all
the 6000+ K2s gone? Maybe we are just in a
I've just discovered a 2T-GEN two tone generator kit which I bought not
long before I decided to buy a K3. As you may know, the K3 has a 2-tone
generator built in, so the one I have is now surplus but would be ideal
for a K2 owner.
So it's for sale. It's unbuilt, in original packing/pink
I have a W1 Wattmeter mounted in the W1 Lexan enclosure by W8FGU for sale. I
now
have a Powermaster meter and no longer need the W1. A serial cable and DC power
cable are included. The BNC connectors exit the rear of the enclosure. Price
is $80
plus shipping. Please contact me off list if
Elecraft K3 #3563 (kit) is alive and well!
Keith Hamilton W8GX
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This list hosted
You're the 10th person to ask for this, I touched on this about a year ago...
From: p...@xs4all.nl
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 19:24:59 +0100
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: L-mix-R
I've tried the L-mix-R this weekend. It is good step forward but still, I am
missing one
Did I miss it? I thought I had been watching but haven't seen even a wild
guess on the P3 availability?
Status? Is it in the hands of testers?
Availability - 1 month? 3 months? 9 months? Any ideas?
Price guess? When?
73, de Jim KG0KP
(Snip)
Did I miss it? I thought I had been watching but haven't seen even a wild
guess on the P3 availability?
Status? Is it in the hands of testers?
Availability - 1 month? 3 months? 9 months?
(End Snip)
Hmmm..it might still be in incubation?
Sure would like to know when though.
My K3 clock display loses a crazy amount of time when it is left on (in the
sub display, in place of VFO B freq). I set the K3 time against my computer
at around 0200, came back at 0540 and the K3 clock reads 0515. Cycle the
clock off and back on with the DISP button and it immediately corrects
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