Glenn Haffly wrote:
Is there a reason for not using an IC socket soldered to the
various boards rather than direct soldering an IC to the boards ?
Glenn,
IC sockets are generally appropriate only for ICs containing firmware which may
need upgrading. For almost all other situations, the use
Is there any relationship between the message subject line and the content
of these two postings?
73,
Mike / KK5F
-Original Message-
From: Jimmy Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thursday, June 17,
Steve WB6RSE wrote:
Anyone have any experience changing the K1 from
LSB to USB CW?
Steve,
That's an interesting question.
The K1 front end mixer injects the local oscillator (LO) signal ABOVE the
incoming RF signal (high side injection), while the product detector injects
the BFO signal
Steve wrote:
The advantage to USB CW is that ... it is often useful to hear
what's up the band as you tune higher. ...With LSB you would
hear the last station worked only if he was below your listening
frequency rather than above, especially if the signal is weak. For
serious DX chasing, USB CW
Jeff Imel wrote:
The HF Pack organization sponsors and annual antenna shootout...
http://tinyurl.com/2lzgm
That is a pretty interesting site. Thanks for the URL.
It confirms the very dismal performance of *all* those popular HF short
loading-coil verticals in comparison to the most simple,
Brian Mury wrote:
I would also like to see a comparison between the horizontal and
vertical antennas. I don't think the horizontal antenna would
necessarily beat the vertical - it depends on a few variables, a couple
big ones that come to mind being the height of the dipole and the
vertical's
Martin wrote:
...my multi band dipole works a treat. It is a home brew set up with
3 horizontal dipoles cut for 80/40/20m one above the other with
about 1-2 feet separation at the ends. All on the same coax with no balun
or ground connection. The wire is cheap annealed solid copper PVC insulated
Stuart Rohre wrote:
Posters should disable their anti spam authentication if they want a direct
answer to their question.
...I should not have to go out of my way in my attempt to help.
Why be so unreasonable, Stuart? The other fellow is just trying to say My
time is much more valuable than
Does anyone know where we stand on the sunspot cycle? Are at the bottom
(please say yes!) and when is it expected to start to inch up?
It may just be my own personal perception, but this passing cycle, the
fourth since I was first licensed, has been the most generally disappointing
one. It
I wrote:
I placed some hand cut felt washers between the front panel and the
back of the VFO knob to add some stiffness.
Sandy wrote:
Where does one get thick felt?
Sandy,
I made several thin felt washers out of sheet felt that you can find in the
sewing supplies at places like Hobby
Lloyd Lachow wrote:
I'm about to construct a K1-2, and wondered if there
were any must-do mods to consider, or if the
current manual is pretty up-to-date ...
Lloyd,
How early is your K1? For K1s with Rev. D RF boards (mid-2002 or earlier), the
following URL contains just about all major K1
George / W5YR wrote:
The + output terminal of the VS-35M Astron supply goes to the anode of a
high-current diode
Hi George,
I assume that the Astron output voltage is about 13.8 vdc. Assuming a 0.7 vdc
voltage drop across the diode, your deep discharge battery sees about 13.1 vdc.
Is
Steve wrote:
While I agree that Mouser is a super parts source,
nothing beats buying Elecraft parts from ... Elecraft!
I wonder about a couple of things:
(1) Is the supply of parts at least a financial break-even enterprise
for Elecraft? Or is it a service provided at a net loss?
(2)
I would *never* buy any kit that requires more than an item or two of SMT
work. SMT construction is specifically designed *only* for machine
assembly. IMO, any SMT kit must come with almost all the SMT components
pre-assembled to the PC boards to be acceptable.
I'm not against SMT. In fact, I
John wrote:
Does anyone have any comments on this radio,pro or con?
I bought one at a hamfest 20 years ago. I've still got it, but in storage
somewhere.
It's pretty large for its power level (10 watts, IIRC).
It should be easy to work on, since there are no ICs, and most of the PCBs
can be
Scott wrote:
My only HF rig is the K1 and it suits my needs well...
My K1 cost me half what the K2 would have when built to suit,
and the KX1 wasn't available when I bought the rig.
The K1 is still tops for field work, in my book.
Even had the KX1 been available, I'd have bought my K1 (SN 175)
I *really* need one for my KX1. I have trashed 2 or 3 pots by
compression when carrying it in my waist pack.
I've always thought that rigs like the KX1 with top-mounted controls are
especially prone to this type of damage, with the controls spead out over a
larger surface area. When the
James wrote:
... I am the fourth owner of K-1 SN0004 with a 40/20 M module.
I have had it for 2 years. I have found that the more I use it the less
I like it.
I've had K1 SN 175 for almost four years (original owner). I've found it to be
the best portable QRP rig, by large margin, of the nine
Steve wrote:
What I'd like to see is a K1 top ... with a connector on the
back for the charging voltage input.
I would *not* be comfortable charging batteries inside the K1 case, since
there's no barrier around the batteries to prevent chemical leakage on to
the K1 PCBs.
A connector for an
Scott Richardson wrote
... The K1 zenith appears to have passed.
Hi Scott,
I don't think this is the case. The K1 was an amazingly mature product when it
first appeared in Fall 2000. By this I mean that it performed its intended
functions well and had very few bugs. Rigs with problems
Steve wrote:
... how about a K1 design using the DDS of the KX1, full
coverage and the options of the K1
I really like Dave Benson's pioneering work in QRP rig design by using a DDS
chip to *directly* generate the receiver local oscillator and the transmitter
oscillator frequencies for
Don wrote:
I suggest that you build the 4 band board and then add a 2 band board
with 80 meters as one band - the other band can be 17 or 15
I think that's the best and *only* practical approach. That's what I did
with my old two-band filter board after the the four-band board came out.
60
Trev - K6ESE wrote:
Has anyone else notice that the K1's battery holder seems to
warp a bit when the batteries are left in for a few days?
Yes, almost all plastic AA cell holders of the type used in the KBT1 warp
outward at the ends of the cells. Some holders of this type will eventually
Tom:
I have included as Xtal X3 18.000MHz and it is said this Xtal is for
10.0 Mhz band. But I would like to have the 10.1 MHz band here in
Europe of course.
My K1 (2 bander #1434) is set for 80kHz range.
...Do I need the other Xtal which is 18.100 Mhz (not supplied in the kit)
Tom,
You will
Yves wrote:
What do you use as a portable antenna with the K1?
I *always* use a simple, cheap, resonant, wire dipole. More than 30 years
of playing with portable antennas, often in side by side comparisons with
vertical antennas, has shown me that even high-dollar verticals without very
good
Glenn wrote:
K1 has a problem at J8 pin 7. Specs should be 1.6K to 1.9K.
So far have found that J8 pin 7 to ground is zero
Glenn,
About the **only** thing that can be causing everything you describe is a
simple unwanted solder bridge to ground (most likely from J8 pin 7 to pin 6)
on the
Rick wrote:
...K1 sn 1859 working well since March...I was switching bands and found
20 meters pretty quiet and my output went to zero. All other bands 40, 30
and 17 are working...
The first thing I would do is exercise the trimmer caps (by turning the
rotors CCW and CW several times) that are
Lee wrote:
I was amazed how far and how easy contesting for CW has
become with the advent of the computer generating the code.
The slick computer programs for contesting have sure off-loaded
computing time on the grey matter CPU.
It almost seems equivalent to running a marathon by riding a
Buddy wrote:
...if you're looking to save money by buying a kit, you may well
find that you aren't saving a bunch...but on the other hands, diehard
builders will tell you that the experience can't be bought at *any*
price.
I agree about the price-savings aspect. Good quality kits are not cheap
Howard wrote:
... I can only imagine what it must have been like copying
code on the China Clippers with early radios...
The long-route airline aircraft of the era often had a radio operator on
board. He had to be licensed the same as a merchant marine radio officer,
with at least a Second
Ron wrote:
The press was sent from punched paper tape, I believe. It ran
at a very steady 20 wpm.
Hi Ron,
Coast Station WCC in the 1970s sent a nightly news/sports/financial
broadcast in the 1970s at somewhere around 30 wpm. It was great practice,
and interesting too.
Coast station NAM
Ron wrote:
KPH will be on the air with continuous transmissions on MF
beginning at 1700 PST/0100 GMT.
Frequencies - Announcements will be made on 500kc. Press,
weather, and other information will be sent on 426kc. 500kc
will be monitored for calls from ships at sea. The silent period
on 500kc
Mychael Morohovich wrote:
For the past two years I have been using a Sony ICF-SW7600GR
for all my general coverage needs...It has a BFO, AM Sync, RF
attenuator, and more memory than I can use. Works FB.
I wholeheartedly agree with this recommendation. I've owned several compact
portable
Stewart wrote:
No loss of signal when switching in my NB, but it is very selective
on what type of noise it blanks.
The very simple noise blankers of the K1 and K2 seem to help only on ignition,
motor commutator, and other such similar noise. These blankers seem completely
ineffective on all
Ron wrote :
...the 600 Meter Research Group that held, for a
tantalizing-short time, transmitting licenses to work on
several old maritime frequencies around 500 kc/s. But
the US Coast Guard objected on principle and our
privileges were cut short for now even though there was
no record of any
Ron wrote:
About my KX1 I explained, This little box that fits in my jacket
pocket is a complete short-wave radio station that I built. I can
throw a wire over a tree limb and contact other people over a
range of hundreds of miles, thousands of miles, even half way
around the world at times. It
Don wrote:
...the following is a copy of my post a long time ago that described
how to put a K1 2 band board on 160 meters. Unfortunately,
Elecraft has not included this as a band kit
Great post. I'd missed it somehow, but I've got it on file now. Thanks!
I'm personally not all that
The calibration signal if one can call it that, is a harmonic of the crystal
oscillator for the MPU on the front panel board. The nominal frequency of that
crystal is 4000 kHz, but the circuit has been purposefully designed to actually
oscillate lower in frequency. Most I've heard of seem to
I wrote:
The K1 receiver operates on lower sideband for all bands. If you
have properly set your CW offset to, say, 600 Hz, then your
transmitter frequency will be 0.6 kHz lower than your receiver
frequency. Most hams want the frequency display to show
transmitter frequency rather than
Don wrote:
On a properly aligned K1 or K2, the display WILL be
the frequency to be transmitted.
Don,
This is not true for the K1. The K1 operating frequency display is not as
smart or foolproof as that of the K2.
In the K1, *only* the base VFO frequency (ranging from about 3.1 to 2.9 MHz
Tom Juelich wrote:
I am just wondering what for are C78 and RFC8 on the RF
board? They are only supplied with the 80m kit.
I don't remember what Gary Surrency at Elecraft said about the problems that
were found on 80m that required these components. You could email him directly.
I just went
Adi suggested:
... maybe open another forum with pure technical
stuff because deletting all the messages wich are not
of my interests is very time consuming...
I'm happy with the list as it currently exists, but it would be courteous if
postings specific to a particular Elecraft product
Ron Polityka asked:
Have the 2 band board made for 80 17 meters and the
4 band board made for 40, 30, 20 15 meters. Then swap
them out in the field.
Hi Ron,
I have exactly the two filter board combinations that you mention.
It's no real trouble to swap out filter boards, even with the
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...I wasn't even asking about using my K2 (which
I want to keep in qrp version..I was willing to get
a Yaecomwood for MARS use.
Even there, you'd have to select the Yaecomwood rig carefully.
FWIW, the K2 does *not* come near meeting the NTIA frequency stability
Kevin wrote:
The memories are good ones but I realize the kids working
the store were not born when those computers were first
considered obsolete.
I spent many a happy evening with Ga. Tech's Univac 1108 scientific mainframe
35 years ago, and their older but clever stack machine known as
The following is OT commentary on HP calculators, so please delete now if not
interested.
Mark wrote:
I'm holding on to my HP15C which I bought in college in
1987...
I was a junior at Ga. Tech in 1972 when the famous HP-35 appeared. At $400 in
1972, that's about $1800 today. You could
Bill wrote:
The strip reader was an HP 45. I had that and the HP 35.
The only HP handheld calculators that used magnetic card programing were:
HP-65 - Introduced in 1973 at $800
HP-67 - Introduced in 1976 at $450, replaced the HP-65
HP-41C-series with card-reader option (1979)
The HP-45 came
Wayne wrote:
We'll pre-install SMD replacements in future kits should that become
necessary. If SMDs start to dominate, we'll up-level the kits so that
the builder is still working with small units: individual modules that
are small PCBs with some or all SMDs.
That's the ideal solution, IMHO.
Tom wrote:
The K1 is a truly remarkable rig that is it's only kind providing ultra low
currentdraw , up to four bands and buildt in ATU.
With those specs the K1 is inexpencive.
The K2 gives the same just more of it.
If portable operation is not an issue, it is possible to find a commercially
Jim wrote:
... I intend to convert my K-1's (#391) original 2-band filter board
to 80 40 meters from 40 20.
Unless the 40m crystal in your four-band board and the 40m crystal in your
two-band board oscillate at nearly the same frequency (within 100 Hz), there'll
be a little frequency
RC wrote
It is a J37 key by the E. Johnson Co. mounted on a J-44 Black Bakelite
base. What do you use to clean a key and can/should this key be
dismantled in the cleaning process
The J-44 key was designed to slide into a bracket on the wooden cover of the
US Army Signal Corps SCR-178 and -179
Ron wrote:
I kept my hand in on a straight key and passed my 20 wpm
Extra Class Amateur and my Commercial RadioTelegraph
license tests using a straight key.
When I took my Extra exam 25 years ago, they had already eliminated the
Morse sending test. Too bad, I thought. When I took my
Jeff wrote:
How was the speed determined for a sending test
All one could do is estimate the speed, and maybe send a little faster than
what the threshold was. There was nothing wrong with sending faster than
the requirement. Similar to the receiving test which required perfect copy
for at
Jerry wrote:
The J-37 I bought (surplus) came in it's original cardboard box and
was mounted on a leg clip
A J-37 on the leg clip becomes a J-45 under the old Army Signal Corps naming
system, or a KY-116/U under the late-WWII to present Joint Army Navy naming
system. They can be often found
Ron wrote:
I seem to recall there was a mod to make C31 something like 1uf and
having a resistance in series to speed up the AGC action, and I think that
is in the set.
There have been several proposals for altering (speeding up) the stock AGC
response of the K1. The most common is just
Is there a modern tuner out there for balanced lines that
doesn't use a balun?
I don't know of any. There is nothing wrong with using a balun
as long as the balun is looking into a relatively low SWR .
Even the MFJ-974, 974H, and 976 balanced line tuners use a 1:1 current balun
on the input
I wrote:
Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B,
the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer
design, caught on.
Bill wrote:
I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It
has dot and dash memories -- the
Tom wrote:
Recently I discovered an drift problem on 20 (only 20)
on my 4 band module. (Blue trimmer caps inside).
This problem occurs during RX and TX.
I must add that my problem does not exist with the 2 band module
Tom,
I've never heard a problem like this reported on the K1. About the
Ruchan Ozatay wrote:
I will get my K1 with KFL1-4 to build. I want to know your opinions,
which VFO range I have to select?
Eric wrote:
I tried 150 khz at first. The tuning is WAY too fast
and the added frequencies are of no use to QRP...
I've been using K1 #175 in the USA since November 2000,
Craig wrote:
I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built
the 4-band board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15.
What's really going to be involved when swapping boards? ...
What about calibration?
The K1 MPU stores a
Dave wrote:
I am interested in your opinions on the differences between the K-1 and
KX-1 transceivers, beyond the band coverage issues; for example, which
has the better receiver?
I built my K1 (#175) in November, 2000, for backpack portable use. If I
were buying a rig today, now that the KX1
Ron wrote:
... the most famous aircraft antenna is the Zeppelin antenna...
balanced feeders from the transmitter to the END of a 1/2 wave
antenna. At the antenna, one feeder connected to the end of the
radiator and the other feeder simply stopped at an insulator...
Most Ham Zepps today are not
After the ATU, it is the best accessory ever for the K1.
It definitely does the job, but...it seems way over-engineered and
complicated for the task of simply lifting the front of a K1, which is all
that many require. It doesn't colllapse quickly for storage, and it
provides only two
I wrote:
The KTS1 and the KNB1 are two K1 accessories that have fallen
out of use here.
Whoops! I meant KBT1 internal battery, not KNB1 noise blanker. Although
the KNB1 doesn't do much for the noise I've encountered, there's no point to
pulling it out of the K1.
The KBT1 would be much more
David wrote:
... the manual makes references to both Revisions C D.
Is there any real performance differences in the two.
Rev. D KNB1 boards do not exist. The manual mentions it just in case revision
is ever made. It has done so since the first KNB1 was sold nearly five years
ago.
73,
Jay wrote:
Radios with wideband (1.8-30 MHz) receivers can sometimes be modified
by or for valid MARS stations
It is likely that someday NTIA compliant radios will be required for MARS.
MARS stations that participate in SHARES nets already need to meet specs. The
Civil Air Patrol has
David wrote:
My K1, once built, will be capable of all six bands. With that being said,
If this capacitor is to help with 80 Meters, what does it do to performance
if I don't have the band module that contains 80 installed?
True, C78 and RFC8 are normally included only with the 80m filter
Mark wrote:
I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency
communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and
KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with
batteries, if the need arises...I've been thinking about using
something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size.
I've been playing
A few minutes after I posted, via your email address, a reply to a
news group topic I received the following email. Note that my post
hasn't yet appeared in the newsgroup list - so I'm guessing this came
directly from something between me and you. I translated the Dutch
but it doesn't make sense -
Eric wrote:
Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although
THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN.
snip many other good points
Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand
assembly.
snip many more good
Vic wrote:
... most likely, future kits will include machine-made SMT subassemblies
which will be put together by the builder.
Is this bad? I don't think so. I didn't complain about not building
the microprocessor in my K2!
I think it would be great. Think of the construction time saved,
K2:
far better base specs (performance and features)
The K1 has the best specs for spurious output of any Elecraft rig.
Mike / KK5F
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber
There's no denying the K1 is a very nice, and I'm beginning to think,
underrated rig. The KX1 kind of upstaged this solid little performer.
Due, in no small part, to some product reviews of the KX1 incorrectly
implying that the KX1 was an improved K1. It isn't.
I just say Let me see you work
Sandy wrote:
Is this stuff real flexible? I've been using some old MIL SPEC type #26
guage
hookup wire!
Scott wrote:
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated
wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas
What is the advantage of this
Matt wrote:
... when I was backpacking, every ounce and square inch
was very significant.
Having been on many several-day back pack trips over the past 30 years
(mainly in the Arkansas Ozarks, not on Mount Everest), I'd say that is true
to a point, but overstressed. Will an eight-ounce
Jeremy wrote:
I know the KX1 is more portable but I am wondering specifically
about the receiver performance between the two.
If properly built, the K1 has a somewhat better receiver than the KX1 in most
areas. The advantages of the K1 receiver over that of the KX1 are:
(1) Bands of operation.
It was reported:
... the KX1 wins handsdown for backpacking...
Strange! Before the KX1 came out, the K1 was generally acknowledged as the
best multi-band backpacking rig available. It is no less suitable for that
task today.
If one is happy with the limited number of bands covered by the
Grif wrote:
WHAT are the changes to R11 and R30 Everyone is referring to them, but
no-one has said what they are!!
Must be a dark secret, Grif. Nobody seems to want to tell, apparently least of
all the folks who report having performed the mods!
I'd help if I knew...but I don't have a
Pete wrote:
I'm considering getting a K1, this question of 80 vs. 150 kHz VFO
tuning width is a bit disconcerting.
I hold the minority view that 150 kHz span (you'll actually get closer to 180
kHz) works just fine. The tuning is pretty linear at about 18 kHz per turn
across the entire tuning
Vic wrote:
I would like to correspond with anyone who has tried portable QRP
operation from a high location, using a low horizontal antenna at the
edge of a sharp dropoff.
I always got great results operating from a bluff on Arkansas' Mount Magazine
and similar locations, by running the ends
Ron wrote:
The advantage of low dipoles on slopes for DX noted by Moxon
is that the earth behind the radiator acts as a reflector.
For an HF dipole installed along a stony cliff or bluff, I've always had my
doubts that the earth and stone behind the dipole act much like an effective
ground
Jim wrote:
... each and very one of those guys passed a code test!
This is definitely **not** a certainty, since the VEC process took over the
operator licensing exam process.
Mike / KK5F
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Jim wrote:
While the kit and instructions are first rate, this upgrade is not for
the faint of heart. Although I was careful not to use any more heat
than necessary in removing the cut pins from the old LCD, I did have
one PCB trace lift up.
It would appear to be somewhat taxing, just
Tom wrote:
Since you are going to be a newly minted ham, I would not recommend
a Buddipole right now. I would take the suggestion of the others and
build a 44 or 66 foot doublet and feed it with twin lead or build a
resonant dipole. Any of these simple antennas will out perform a
Buddipole...
Craig wrote:
I will respectfully disagree. You have made one major assumption
that is almost never true - namely that the BuddiPole vertical is
used without an adequate ground system.
Most everyone I know (including me) who uses the BuddiPole as a
vertical uses a single quarter wave elevated
Curt wrote:
I'm wondering if the trouble with your K1 on 20M is the 22 mHz
premixer crystal is bad.
That's exactly what I was thinking, and was wondering why in the scores
of earlier replies there had been no suggestion of this. The RF probe
won't solve this very likely cause!
Jon, see if you
Don wrote:
While the RF Probe will not solve the problem, it will detect whether
the crystal is the problem or not. At the time of the initial
suggestions, he did not have access to another receiver...
Hi Don,
The temperance and helpfulness that you and all the other list members extend
to
Jeremy wrote:
I've been looking around for a few weeks now for my first HF radio
(just recently newly licensed as a General) - and am looking at either
something like a Yaesu FT-101, or a Kenwood TS-820S or an Elecraft
K1 (probably just the 2-band 20m/40m version).
1. A person with
The convention currently in use is merely traditional and reflects
military preference for standardization (due to channelization)
promulgated in the early days of SSB.
LSB use on 40m and below is *strictly* a HAM convention. Military,
commercial marine, and civil aviation standardized on USB
I had a PRC-74 for a good while and finally sold it as there was no LSB.
You're right about it not having LSB, Sandy. I've got an AN/PRC-74B
that I've never fired up, so I had forgotten that it should not have
been on my list of LSB-capable military sets. At least the 74B covers
20 meters (it
Don wrote:
I can guess that the 'light display/relay chatter' symptom
is a result of the resettable fuse creating an effective
power off/on cycle.
The K1 doesn't use a resettable fuse unless one has been
added unofficially in the power lead, so there's even more
mystery here.
Mike / KK5F
Don wrote:
One thing to check is the seating of the microprocessor in its socket.
... A loose connection to one of the microprocessor will create
many 'strange happenings'.
Steve's problem is a strange one. Something is reseting the MPU PIC.
I'd almost suspect a problem around the 80/30m KFL2
The K1 can remember settings for 6 bands...
It'll do even better...it stores data for nine bands. The K1 MPU
stores a display calibration adjustment for each ham band that
the K1 MPU allows to be assigned to a filter board. Although
there are only six HF bands provided by Elecraft for the K1
Ron wrote:
Every time I write a phrase using _its_ or _it's_ I have to
stop and think about it.
Other very common errors are:
(1) Misuse of your and you're,
(2) Misuse of their and there and they're,
(3) Misuse to and too.
We all make such errors on occasion, but when any individual
native
Gary wrote:
I installed the RF board U2 backwards ... I'm trying to salvage the IC...
I'm sure you've received enough input now to know that any attempt to
salvage such is extremely ill-advised. It's possible to damage the RF board
just removing two-lead components. The same thing applies to
Curt wrote:
Awhile ago, recall reading some chatter about Elecraft offering a filter
board kit for 20,17,1510 once the sunspots started coming back.
... has anyone successfully configured a 4-band filter for these
bands on their own?
Stephanie/VA3UXB did a lot of work on this mod for both 2-
Steve wrote:
My version of this 'classic' rig is 4-band (40, 30, 30 and 15m)...
A magic combination on 30m, my favourite band.
30m must really *really* be your favo[u]rite, if you have devoted two
of the four bands on the filter board to it!!!:-)
Mike / KK5F
K1 S/N 175
I remember somewhere on the net reading about some mods to make the
K1-NB a little bit more aggressive.
I've never come across anything like that in the almost nine years that I've
had my K1. I've found the KNB1 to be effective on spark-type noise, but
not at all effective on local power line
Paul wrote:
A mod here ... is fitting a simple internal charger circuit so the batt
pack can be left in situ.
The original cover is also used, with the smaller speaker. Fit is what
could be politely called snug
By original cover I suppose that you actually are refering to the replacement
What's the bandwidth of that 50 mHz circuit?
It can't be very wide, if the carrier is truely on 50 mHz.
That's 50 milliHertz (0.05 Hertz)!
Mike / KK5F
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
1 - 100 of 555 matches
Mail list logo
