Re: [h-cost] 19th century clothing in need of a new home

[A. Thurman]

Can I share this on some Facebook costume groups I'm on? I'd be happy to
provide a signal boost.

Allison

On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 2:00 PM,  wrote:
>
>
>1. 19th century clothing in need of a new home (Mary Bucher)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 10:23:44 -0800
> From: Mary Bucher 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] 19th century clothing in need of a new home
> Message-ID:
>  gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Hi,
>
> I received the following query through my website. If you are interested or
> have any suggestions, please reply to Katherine Dill
> katherined...@yahoo.com
>
> Thanks,
> ~mary
>
> =
>
>
> A small local historical society in Indiana has literally hundreds of
> garments for which we need to find a new home. They are mid/late 1800s
> and early 1900s, primarily women's, though some girls' and men's
> clothing.
>
> Do you have any interest or have any idea at all a company/museum that
> might want them? I could provide a list of the items of you would like
> more information about what we have. We really have no use for them
> and need to relocate them. Thanks.
>
>
> --
>
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>
>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 16, Issue 1
> 
>
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Re: [h-cost] is h-costume still going?

[A. Thurman]

I'm still here, though do most of my costume talk on FB these days as well.

I'd LOVE to be making something (so many things!) but I'm working on a book
(not costume related). I've discovered I have time to write or costume, but
not both.

I am still attending the Tudor Tailor weekend next June in Jamestown though.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Visit to Italy

[A. Thurman]

On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 2:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:

 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
 h-costume@mail.indra.com






 --

 Message: 3
 Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:47:02 -0400
 From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com
 To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] friend going to Italy
 Message-ID:
 
 cafa41oep2jkc6hj6pwgeuf5tydmqo5hur1gzylxdyfxc3-g...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 I have a friend who is travelling to Italy next month, to Florence,
 Balzano, Rome and Genoa, with a very brief visit to Venice and Naples too.

 Doas anyone have any suggestions of museums or shopping for
 costume/textile/lace related things not to miss?

 I'm working on my wish list of what she should look for for me--living
 vicariously through my friend's travel...

 Katy


In addition to what others have said, in Florence check out the Pitti
Palace - they have the Medici burial garments, and others:

http://www.sbas.fi.it/english/musei/costume/default.asp

http://archiviomedici.costume-textiles.com

Not a museum, but Alice's Masks do beautiful, beautiful work:

http://www.alicemasks.com/home.htm

The Stibbert Museum also has a selection of costumes, including some of
Napoleon's coronation garments: http://museostibbert.it/en/page/costumes

Have fun, and I envy you the opportunity to go to Venice as well! Museo
Fortuny all the way!

Allison T.



Also, for shopping (which includes a lot of art, fabric, and jewelry
stores, in part catering to the conservation efforts of local museums), get
this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Civilized-Shoppers-Guide-Florence/dp/1892145472
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic

[A. Thurman]

I too am torn between the Indiana Jones impulse (It belongs in a
museum!) and realizing that clothes are ultimately made to be worn.

For example, much as I revere Fortuny gowns as the artworks that they
are, I can't say I wouldn't be tempted to wear one if given the
opportunity (after showering thoroughly and having a vintage textile
conservator lined up to take the gown off my hands once I'm out of
it).

Re: vintage: there's something to be said for older clothing, in that
often I find anything from the 1950s or earlier seems to be so much
better made. If it's lasted this long, why NOT wear it?

Allison T.


 Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 16:26:33 -0700
 From: Sybella mae...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta
 Press)
 Message-ID:
 ca+-tdrqa21eoyuw9iwfusy23w7xzo2udhy+xxdczvof3ba-...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 Ha. I'm with Fran on this one. If we saved every vintage textile we found,
 we could fill a warehouse...and it would all just sit there. What would be
 the point? Mom has boxes and boxes of vintage embroidered sheets, pillow
 cases, dish towels, table clothes, etc. Since she wants to save them,  we
 don't use for them. Frankly, I'm sick of trying to live with boxes, lugging
 them around to get to other things, and endlessly moving useless stuff
 around the house. If I could do it without Mom noticing and getting ticked
 off, I'd start mailing it all to Fran. LOL!

 That said, I also understand where Isabella is coming from because I HATE
 it when people take a piece of vintage jewelry and destroy it by tweaking
 it into something modern. I find stuff on eBay all the time that just blows
 my mind.

 I cry when I read about someone who bought an historic diamond then had it
 recut. If it used to be in a royal crown and can be seen in portraits from
 hundreds of years ago, leave it alone! Man, oh man, I want to smack some
 people!! Things like that can never be replaced.

 But really, linen tunics?? Eh, they're nothing special. It's the rare
 stuff, especially things that have significant history, presses my buttons.

 'Bella
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[h-cost] Linkage: Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800

[A. Thurman]

I happened across this link and thought I'd share. As an Elizabethan
buff it's especially interesting for me because many of the
contributions address 16th century clothing outside of England, but
given the geographic and time range, I'm sure there's plenty else if
your interests lie anywhere between 1500 and 1800:

http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/

Allison T. (back to lurking)
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[A. Thurman]

A pirate coat (1730sih, but I make no claims to accuracy) made from
old drapes and a felt tricorn to go with. I hope to wear them to the
local renn faire before the season ends; if not, I'm sure I'll find
something to do with them :P

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Attention: Carmen Beaudry re: Fortuny notes

[A. Thurman]

Please contact me off list, athurman at gmail dot com. I emailed you
to trade Fortuny notes but I may have bounced due to the
authentication system set up. I'm still eager to see the details of
your visit to MOHAI!

Allison
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Re: [h-cost] When did you join H-Costume

[A. Thurman]

On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 2:00 PM,  h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:

 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
 To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Monday, August 8, 2011, 1:08 AM
 So here are the questions...how did
 you find the h-costume email list?? And
 what year did you join?? It will be really interesting
 how the newbies have
 found it.

I don't remember quite - it was sometime during college so I joined in
the early-mid 1990s. My best guess is that I discovered it through
Usenet groups or from my costume history professor.

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?

[A. Thurman]

 Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:37:22 -0700
 From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
 Message-ID: 4e3d97f2.6060...@lavoltapress.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 For well over a year, I've been noticing a relative scarcity of posts on
 pretty much every costume-related mailing list and bulletin board of
 which I am a member (several dozen).  Many of these groups, including
 h-costume, were formerly very active. The general, noncostume sewing
 groups are an exception--they seem to be as active as ever.

 I don't really consider Facebook a substitute because their message
 limits and format don't cater to either long messages or complicated
 interchanges.

Facebook and the like are other communication tools and I do use them,
but they are just that - tools, and no one is a replacement for the
others. (Tangential - do feel free to look for me on Facebook and
Google+ - as far as I know there are no costume communities on G+ yet
but I'd love to be proven wrong!).

 Is costuming going out of style, as it were?  Is reenactment less
 popular? Are people traveling less to events because of the recession,
 therefore making fewer outfits for attending events, therefore not
 discussing those projects?  Is everyone hanging out on new lists I've
 never heard of?  Where ARE all the costumers hanging out, if not on
 h-costume?

I don't think costuming is going out of style - far from it. Younger
people tend not to do historic costuming, but there does seem to be a
huge interest in sci-fi/anime character costuming (cosplay) and
events/mailing lists/other internet to match. Could be we're just not
seeing them here.

For my own self, I still read H-costume regularly but haven't posted
lately because I am not costuming as much as I used to. My other hobby
is competitive fencing and it eats a lot of my time both for making
things and going to events. I AM going to try and make Dress U in
Philly next June provided it doesn't conflict with major competitions.

There's also the factor that when I do sew I'm usually trying to
complete an outfit (several pieces) instead of experimenting, so I
suspect that part of the reason I've gone silent is sticking to tried
and true = fewer questions (which also means I'm not challenging
myself enough, but that's another post :P)

 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 Books on making historic clothing
 www.lavoltapress.com
 www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress

Allison T.

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[h-cost] Attn: Kathy Page re: Met Museum visit

[A. Thurman]

No sooner do I post that I have nothing to say, than I do:

I'm conducting some research into the construction of Mariano
Fortuny's pleated gowns. The Costume Institute at the Met in NYC has
several with sleeves, which could hopefully answer some questions I
have that the easier-to-find sleeveless versions can't.

However, searching the site I'm pressed to find any way to make
appointments to view garments behind the scenes, what credentials/lead
time, if any, or contact information for the curators (Harold
Koda/Andrew Bolton).

If anyone has any information to share about who to contact or what to
expect, please let me know. I'm putting a special attention to Kathy
Page if she's still reading because I remember she had a successful
appointment a few years back.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

[A. Thurman]

My photo set on Flickr is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/sets/72157606495042137/

Please feel free to share the link.

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] New to me - Historic Clothing Reconstruction

[A. Thurman]

I think this is the same exhibit that was at the Italian Embassy in DC
for a couple of weeks in 2008. It too wasn't well publicized - I only
found out about it by luck and had to make an appointment to see it.

Very, very good, because I could get very close to everything and even
back views of some of the reconstructions. I have photos; if there's
interest I can put them on Flickr or the like.

Allison T.

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 2:00 PM,  h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:

 Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:27:42 -0700
 From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com,
        therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [h-cost] New to me - Historic Clothing Reconstruction
 Message-ID:
        aanlktim4gctdb8asnvi5dcjd-_drgtix42ah5c_uv...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 http://www.kingstudio.it/

 I must have been asleep in 2004.  How did I miss this exhibit in NY???

 Very cool.

 Sg


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Re: [h-cost] Steampunk (was: Re: A strange question)

[A. Thurman]

On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 2:00 PM,  h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 11:39:53 -0700
 From: Wanda Pease wan...@hevanet.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] A strange question
 Message-ID: 4bae50f9.3080...@hevanet.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 Also, no one can tell you that isn't period which draws a lot of would
 be SCA who have been frightened by people who go on and on about how
 some un-named Laurel  came up to them at their first event and sneered
 at them (never heard it in 30 years, or I'd take the Laurel out back of
 the Porta-Potties and hold their head to the vent for a while).

I agree that garb snarking is bad manners, but with most of my
historic costume I snark *myself* into inertia - I get so hung up on
making every stitch just so that it takes me forever to finish
anything.

Having just started dabbling in steampunk, it's kind of like historic
costume without the angst: all the challenge and creativity, none of
the proving every seam and ruffle, because it's a sci-fi-ized version
of the 19th century.

 Regina (SCA, Steam Punk, Ooooh Shiny!)

Well said!

Allison T.

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[h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

[A. Thurman]

I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of
white on white windowpane cotton.

I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?)
dresses had a train, even for day.

I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine
white fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to
minimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the
train up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't
showing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't
the style I'm after.

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

[A. Thurman]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies. Hope, thank you for
the images (your post below), and the difference between ball and
opera gowns. FWIW, I'm going for a basic day gown that might I might
accessorize in future for evening, if possible.

Based on your responses. I think I'm going to leave off the train - I
am a klutz walking in long skirts at the best of times, and it might
be a modern conceit, but I have no interest in walking around holding
up my train or bunching it under my arms :P Perhaps I'll create an
open robe or similar to dress it up, and IT can have the train!

Allison T.

 Message: 6
 Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:47:09 -0500
 From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?
 Message-ID: 4b902a5d.20...@uvm.edu
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Sounds lovely. Answering the question of what to do with a train, both
 in terms of carrying it and in terms of protecting it, is a challenge.
 Here are some thoughts:

 For the gowns just before 1800 that were fuller, women are shown
 twisting the train up behind their backs, holding a bit of it under
 their arms, or pulling the fullness of the skirt around towards the
 front. Here are some images from Heideloff's:

 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-07-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-10-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-11-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1797-08-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1798-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-05-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-10-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1800-10-0005.jpg

 On the other hand, the fashionable ladies promenading at Kensington
 Gardens in 1804 allowed their trains to flow behind them, so elegantly.
 Notice, however, that their petticoats/undergowns also appear to be
 trained. This might be a clue as to how to protect the overgown from
 excessive soiling. A easy to wash plain cotton undergown beneath a
 diaphonous overgown would work well.
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1804-fashionsoflondon-promenade-Kensingtongardens.jpg

 By 1810 trains all but disappear, and even before that there are many
 images of gowns that have no trains.

 And, as an aside, if making a formal gown for evening, be sure to
 differentiate between 'ball dress' and 'evening wear.' I have yet to
 find an image of a post-1810 ball gown that has a train. Up to and
 around 1810 there are plenty of 'full dress' or 'evening wear' or 'opera
 dress' gowns that do, but ball gowns, no.
 Ball dress:
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-wu-ackermann-balldress.png
 Evening full dress:
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-white-washington.jpg

 By the way, I would be suspicious of claims that all women wrapped their
 gowns over their arms to pull them tight. SOunds like a modern
 interpretation!

 - Hope

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Re: [h-cost] Costuming Events in the US/East coast Jul-Aug-Sept

[A. Thurman]

Early August might be late for your visit, but the Costume Society of
America is having a symposium Fashion In Fiction - The Dark Side
October 8-10

http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/RegionII/event_workshop_sym.htm

I'm a DC person and if I'm still local in October (long story) I plan to attend.

I too would be interested in any potential Philly shopping trips. I
don't think I've ever been to Jo Mar but I was very impressed with the
South Street fabric district when I was last there.

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Pantone color guide

[A. Thurman]

FWIW, I'm liking the link Fran posted. No monitor is identical, but
it's a great guide to get the gist of the historic colors being
described.

Also, FWIW, Pantone offers a shopper's color guide for only $20. No
idea how it compares to the professional level guides or how long the
colors stay fresh, but there it is:
http://www.firemountaingems.com/details.asp?PN=H203271TL .

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Costume sale in DC this weekend

[A. Thurman]

Just landed in my inbox this evening:

DC - Costume Sale Sunday 10/11

http://www.shakespearetheatre.org/plays/details.aspx?id=197source=l

The Ultimate Costume Sale!
Just in time for Halloween
Sunday, October 11, 2009
1 p.m.- 6 p.m.
Sidney Harman Hall

Costumes will be available from several of our most popular
productions including The Tempest, Edward II, The Comedy of Errors,
Love Labor’s Lost, Titus Andronicus and more! Don’t miss out on this
amazing display of custom costumes.  Members receive a 10% discount
and are invited to a Preview Reception from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. For
Membership information, call Chris Nitti at 202.547.3230 x 2324.

Attention: Last chance to RSVP for the member reception!  Please
contact Megan Getz at 202.547.3230 ext 2331 by October 7.

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] comparison shopping - Tudor Shoes

[A. Thurman]

On Thu, Aug 13, 2009 at 9:29 AM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:
 Message: 5
 Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 18:45:54 -0700
 From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] comparison shopping - Tudor Shoes
 To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: ec5b3396f57a4ee4a245e1cfe6207...@bobfamilyroom
 Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii

 Have you looked at Soles Thru Time? A couple of re-enactor friends have
 these and love them.


I have looked at these, and they look great to my untrained eye, but
am concerned because they use reference images from Norris and Peacock
which I know are not the most reliable sources.



 --

 Message: 9
 Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 03:26:55 GMT
 From: penhal...@juno.com penhal...@juno.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] comparison shopping - Tudor Shoes
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: 20090812.222655.1559...@webmail12.dca.untd.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 I have no personal experience with either but while surfing for Kentwell 
 information tonight (hey, a girl can dream!) I noted that Pilgrim Shoes is 
 one of the official vendors for their Tudor/Elizabethan reenactors and 
 actually sells from a booth while the reenactment is open.

That Kentwell use them is a very strong endorsement in my book -
unless I'm wrong Kentwell has very exacting standards, right?

Re: Melanie's rec. of Sarah Juniper and others rec.s of Plantagenet -
both appear both sturdy and beautiful/accurate, but a bit above what I
can spend right now!

Right now I'm leaning towards Armlann - good prices for handmade and I
could trace my feet around arch supports for added support. Also they
appear to do a leather sole, which might help me more closely
replicate period fencing footwork.

Keep the experiences coming, but thanks so far to all with their
recommendations.

 Karen
 Seamstrix.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Blog post: Resurrection of the Amateur

[A. Thurman]

A fencing buddy of mine works for the Center for the Future of Museums
(USA) and has written a post for the CFM's blog about the interface
between museum experts and amateur experts. Given that a lot of the
people on this list aren't museum professionals yet may visit costume
collections behind the scenes for costume research, I thought some
of y'all might want to read and comment:

http://futureofmuseums.blogspot.com/2009/05/resurrection-of-amateur-expert.html

Full disclosure: I'm the 'fencing buddy' mentioned in the post. They
are seeking comments and feedback, so if you like - or don't like -
what you read, do let them know. And feel free to forward this around.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Costume Con

[Allison Thurman]

I will be there as well - I'll get a red H stamped on my badge if  
one is available!


Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503

[A. Thurman]

There's a book, Women of Distinction: Margaret of York and Margaret
of Austria - not sure about M of A but M of Y died in 1503, so some
of the photos might be helpful:
http://books.google.com/books?id=UquEJwAACAAJdq=margaret+of+york+women+of+distinctionclient=firefox-a

Also you might try looking at tomb effigies of the period in question,
but others might be able to better speak to that (paging Robin
Netherton?)

Allison T.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 --

 Message: 8
 Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 17:26:26 +
 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed


 Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can
 find pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs
 information, and it is not a period I do.

 Suzi



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Re: [h-cost] Brassiere supplies

[A. Thurman]

I've had good luck with sewsassy.com in the past.

Allison T.

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 1
 Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 13:01:20 -0700
 From: Lilinah [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Brassiere supplies
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

 Most commercial bras never fit me properly. So I'm picking up what
 looks like a really good book on making brassieres, Making Beautiful
 Bras by Lee-Ann Burgess.

 This book is Australian, and i'm not sure if it lists sources for
 supplies in the US - i won't have it until Tuesday to double check.
 So i'm asking for suggestions here, since it's the only clothing
 oriented list i'm on.

 Also, if anyone knows of a legitimate list for making women's under
 things, i'd welcome the information.

 Thanks,
 Anahita

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Re: [h-cost] Florence colloquium

[A. Thurman]

I'll be there...

Allison T.

On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 17:14:21 -0400
 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Speaking of Janet Arnold--
 Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
 friends, that is).
 Monica

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Re: [h-cost] Flat bottomed (and other) armholes

[A. Thurman]

Sure, I'll chat this with you after I have a chance to read your full blog post.

Is there any chance at all that the upper classes might have used a
similar flattened opening? I've found the curved armholes found in
almost every 16th c. pattern/drafting a nightmare to fit on my wonky
shoulders

Allison T.

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 9:28 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Behalf Of Kass McGann
  Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:06 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!


  Hi Monica,

  Thanks for the warm welcome!

  Can we talk about flat-bottomed armholes?  I'm totally on about
  flat-bottomed armholes.

  Kass
   http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/
  Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
  Certificate
  http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=c=123d=160e=f=g=w=21
  q=1p=360r=Y .  They never expire!
  http://reconstructinghistory.com
  http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/
  http://kass-rants.livejournal.com
  http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/
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[h-cost] Florence

[A. Thurman]

I'll be one of the people going to the Janet Arnold symposium in Florence.

There's been a separate Yahoo Groups mailing list set up for people
going (or, indeed, any costume buffs that travel) so we can coordinate
our activities: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Traveling4Costumers/

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You

[A. Thurman]

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
  Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
  Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:03 PM
  To: h-costume
  Subject: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

  This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers come out, wherever you
  are!

  About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

[looks around at several shelves] I don't know. I'm guessing 100, at
least, and probably more.


  What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

2nd ed. of Survey of Historic Costume for the college costume
history course that started me on this crazy path!

  What was your most recent purchase?

North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment (waiting for it to get here)

  What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
  a publication?

Without question, the ~$35 copy of QEWU acquired when Amazon.co.uk
misprinted the price on their site a few years back :P

  About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

Photos- none, but quite a few art books just for the paintings.

  What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
  you would take it with you.

I can't even begin to choose!

  What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

I probably have Peacock lying around here somewhere. I sold the Norris
a few years back.

  Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

Yes.

  When did you start collecting?

I'm not exactly when it turned from occasional purchases building up
to full-on collecting - possibly when I discovered the joys of
half.com :P

  Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Pleasure, definitely, though I do think some costume
construction/design philosophies translate to other practical creative
endeavors.

  Optional questions:

  How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

3 - one fairly new; two from ca. 1975 that I need to do something with
(either fix and use or sell)

  How many sewing patterns do you own?

I'm scared to know! I started collecting Vogue patterns by Miyake
about the same time I started collecting books...

  Penny Ladnier,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics

[A. Thurman]

My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke
smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I
live too far away!)

So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent
and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there.

I've found a few online references
(http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0715272815935.html?4,
http://ask.yahoo.com/20021212.html,
http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-cigarette-smoke-smell)
and while I'm still researching, I have a few questions:

1) most of the recommendations I've read for removing tobacco smoke
from fabrics involve phospate based detergents, vinegar, and/or
ammonia. This is great for whites, but will this affect dyed fabrics?

2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as
linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or
silk items?

3) Any further recommendations?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: slops for women

[A. Thurman]

Thank you for this. I've had other things going on and have not been
able to follow up my original question, but slops = women's mourning
clothes makes a lot of sense given the original context.

Allison T.

On Thu, Feb 21, 2008 at 7:50 AM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


  Message: 10
  Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:51:33 -0800 (PST)
  From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
  To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

  Just an update... I've been perusing through some
  Google books, and found this one.
  A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress...
  By James Robinson Planché
  I think you can click this and view it:
  http://books.google.com/books?id=f419oz-NWDgCrview=1
  Page 469 includes an entry on Slops, which gives more
  illumination of the word with regards to women's
  mourning clothing.

  That slops were not breeches as late as the reign of
  Henry VII., is evident from the ordinances issued by
  his mother, Margaret Countess of Richmond, for the
  reformation of apparell for great estates of women in
  the tyme of mourninge, wherein the Queen's
  gentlewomen are directed to wear  sloppes, which are
  explained to mean mourning cassocks for ladies and
  gentlewomen, not open before. In the first year of
  Henry VIII, also, according to Hall, upon Shrove
  Sunday, after a goodly banket in the Parliament
  Chamber at Westminster, a masque was presented in
  which, amongst many other fancifully attired
  personages (the King being one), there entered six
  ladies, two of whom were in garments of crymosyne and
  purpull, made like long slops, embroidered and fretted
  with golde after the antique fascion ; and over the
  slop was a shorte garment of cloth of golde, scant to
  the knee, fascioned like a tabard, c. But though
  they were not breeches,...

  There's a lot more, but that gets the drift with
  regards to mourning clothing.

  Kimiko
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Re: [h-cost] slops for women?

[A. Thurman]

Not sure whether you mean my question or Suzanne's, but I have no
problem with your forwarding my original question.

Allison T.

On Feb 4, 2008 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 3
 Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 18:08:34 -0500
 From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo?

 Susan

 Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
 too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.  - Ride the Dark
 Trail by Louis L'Amour

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[h-cost] slops for women?

[A. Thurman]

I'm reading Dress in the Court of Henry VIII and found a strange
reference to slops for women on page 64.

It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess
Mary each received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood. A similar reference is made on
p. 65 that Elizabeth of York's sister had a slop made as part of her
mourning gear (along with mantle, sircote, kirtle, hood) for
Elizabeth's funeral (1503).

I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: Hamilton Dry Goods

[A. Thurman]

Glad to hear of other good experiences with Hamilton Dry Goods. I know
about them through their Ebay store - they had a good deal on
over-the-knee socks (useful in a pinch as stockings for
medieval/renaissance gear) a while back, something like 10 pair for
$20. I don't have their Ebay seller ID on me but can look it up if
others are interested.

Allison T.

On Jan 31, 2008 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] OT: Two Grand Costume-related Experiences
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=iso-8859-1

 I have experienced two grand costume-related incidents this month:

 I recently ordered fabric from Hamilton Dry Goods, and was pleasantly 
 surprised by the customer service as well as the quickness with which the 
 fabric I had ordered was delivered. I will definitely deal with them again.

 Secondly, I ordered a pattern for stays from the Mantua Maker, and Deb wrote 
 me more than once to make certain I was getting the proper stay pattern for 
 the Empire gown I'm making (which is more Directoire than Georgian or 
 Regency, apparently). I'm pleased to say that per her recommendation, I'm 
 getting the Regency stays which will promote more of an oysters on the half 
 shell effect. Her emails were greatly appreciated, indeed!

 Had to share...

 Marjorie

 Marjorie Gilbert
 author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
 www.marjoriegilbert.net
 http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
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[h-cost] Re: Malaria

[A. Thurman]

If there really is resistance to malaria in the modern European
population, might it not also mean that there was more intermarriage
between Africans and Europeans than is traditionally supposed?

Though I'm skeptical as I've not heard of particular genetic
resistance in Europeans against malaria, there is a provocative theory
that suggests that the descendants of survivors of the historic black
death epidemics might have a genetic component that ALSO makes them
resistant to HIV infection:
http://www.pbs.org/wnet/secrets/case_plague/index.html

I have nothing off-topic to add - the history of disease and how
disease affects history is a peculiar side interest of mine.

Allison T.

On Jan 14, 2008 5:47 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 12
 Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:47:08 EST
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8


 A friend who does research on malaria once told me it originated in
 A friend who does research on malaria once told me it originated in
 Europe, which was a surprise because I'd  always thought it was
 tropical. Apparently it was unknown in tropical areas until European
 settlers reached there.
 ***
 Hold the phone!
 Sickle cell anemia is a genetic disease found only in Africans and their
 descendants, I believe, that one gets if one inherits 2 genes  that cause the
 shape of their red corpusles to become sickle-like. A  single copy of the gene
 makes one very resistant to Malaria...changing the  shape of the cell just
 enough so the Malaria parasite cannot recognize them and  attack. So it is a
 genetic trait that has evolved to help those  exposed to the disease for
 centuriesmalenia...to survive. The deaths from  the unfortunate 
 inheritance of 2
 genes from the parents apparently, in genetic  terms, are acceptable losses.
 I don't think this kind of thing, this genetic reaction to  Malaria, could
 evolve in the, relatively speaking, short time  Europeans have been in Africa.
 It definitely implies Africans have been dealing  with it for a much longer
 time.
 From Wikipedia:
 Malaria has infected humans for over 50,000 years, and may have been a human
 _pathogen_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pathogen)  for  the entire history
 of our species._[2]_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria#_note-1)  Indeed,
 close  relatives of the human malaria parasites remain common in chimpanzees,
 our  closest relatives._[3]_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria#_note-2)
 References to  the unique periodic fevers of malaria are found throughout
 recorded history,  beginning in 2700 BC in China._[4]_
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria#_note-3)  The term  malaria originates 
 from _Medieval_
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middle_Ages)  _Italian_
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_language) : mala  aria †_bad air_
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miasma_theory_of_disease) ; and  the disease 
 was formerly called _ague_
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ague)  or marsh fever due  to its association 
 with swamps.
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[h-cost] Re: Tudor Sweating sickness

[A. Thurman]

I've been watching too and was surprised to find that the sweating
sickness outbreak was one of the things they got right!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweating_sickness

Also I have access to PubMed through work and several articles there
suggest it was a type of hantavirus passed by rodents.

Allison T.

On Jan 8, 2008 3:18 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 1
 Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:19:48 -0800 (PST)
 From: Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Comments on The Tudors
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 I rented the disks from Blockbuster this weekend and had a couple of 
 questions/comments.

 There is substantial mention of a sweating sickness that killed thousands 
 during Henry VIII's time.  What was that?  No mention of buboes like for 
 plague or marks like smallpox.  Did this really happen or was it just part of 
 their story?  It was very contagious and people were told to burn all 
 clothing  bedding.  I believe consumption is tuberculosis, right?  Any other 
 old disease names with modern equivalents I should know?

 I know the costumes were discussed when the show first came out  What I found 
 most jarring was anything from the neck up.  The hairstyles were extremely 
 modern.  Long hair was down  exposed. Crowns  headgear, at least on the 
 women, looked fantasy or Las Vegas.

 Julie in Ramona
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[h-cost] Re: Introduction

[A. Thurman]

Welcome aboard! You'll find a number of 16th century/Elizabethan
costumers on this list, including myself (though many are more
able/prolific than I)!

I too am developing an interest in the social/political conditions
that led the English to colonize the Americas, mostly fueled by a
recent trip to Jamestown (1607). There was a tailor among the original
colonists and a number of clothing/sewing related artifacts found at
the fort site (thimble, doublet buttons, even a poking stick).

What are you currently working on?

Allison T.

On Jan 4, 2008 1:32 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
 h-costume@mail.indra.com

1. Introduction (Sarah Krans)
2. Where can I find a lariat necklace (Lavolta Press)
3. RE: Where can I find a lariat necklace (Sharon Collier)
4. FW: Shrunken wool (Sharon Collier)
5. Re: Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions (B -_- M -_-)
6. white wool stockings (Leif og Bjarne Drews)
7. Re: white wool stockings (Suzi Clarke)
8. Re: white wool stockings (Leif og Bjarne Drews)
9. RE: Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions (Rickard, Patty  )
   10. Re: white wool stockings ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   11. Re: white wool stockings ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   12. RE: FW: Shrunken wool (zelda crusher)
   13. Re: white wool stockings ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   14. Re: FW: Shrunken wool (Lynn Downward)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 15:50:39 -0600
 From: Sarah Krans [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Introduction
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED],
 [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED],
 [EMAIL PROTECTED], Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED],
 [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

 I just wanted to post a brief introduction.  My name is Sarah and live
 in central Wisconsin.  I first really got involved in history while
 walking with friends around Heidelberg Castle in 1992 and picturing
 people living there.  I have been involved in living history since
 about 1994, mainly US Civil War but dabbled in other periods and most
 recently WWII.  I keep coming back to Elizabethan and earlier,
 however, and most recently while doing my genealogy research (most
 interesting related to Henry VIII is an ancestor of mine is the
 grandmother to Catherine Parr).  I have participated off and on with
 the SCA (more off than on) but am hoping to get involved again due to
 the focus on research and practical application (if that makes
 sense!).  I am most interested in the social history of 16th Century
 England - especially that which caused people to head across the pond
 to the colonies.

 Right now I'm going through my fabrics and determining what I have and
 what I can do with it.  I have some good sized pieces of wool flannel,
 linen, and definitely cotton.  The silks I have are more 1860s pattern/
 plaid and would not be appropriate for 16th Century.  I am looking
 forward to getting started - and participating when I can. :)

 Sarah
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[h-cost] Re: Costume related Christmas gifts

[A. Thurman]

On Dec 26, 2007 9:49 AM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Costume related, I got the Janet Arnold book on 19th and early 20th c.
costume patterns, some fingerless gloves (EXCELLENT for use in cold
offices), and time to do some sewing. I've also got the Dress at the
Court of Henry VIII but it hasn't arrived yet.

Not a gift, but definitely costumey - got to see Burton's Sweeney
Todd - hilarious, and very over the top visually (at last! Goth
beachwear!)

Allison T.

 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:43:37 -0800
 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

 Aren't we having annual discussion?

 I got _Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII_, _Ancient Textiles:
 Production, Craft, and Society_, _Purses in Pieces_, a Fortuny-like
 olive-colored crushed silk sleeveless dress, and two Christmas ornaments
 of rather naughty-looking fairies in dressed in pastel Edwardian lingerie.

 Also some science fiction and fantasy books; a whole bunch of spices,
 seeds, nuts, and tea from an Indian grocery store and elsewhere; a
 bottle of elderberry wine; a bottle of dandelion wine; a multi-region
 DVD player; and an IPOD (I plan to get rid of the IPOD ASAP).

 Fran
 Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
 http://www.lavoltpress.com
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[h-cost] Re: Sally Queen Associates--annual costume calendar?

[A. Thurman]

AFAIK, this is the last year the company is doing calendars. Her
latest effort is largely the USA Costume Collections guide.

Allison

On Dec 7, 2007 2:00 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 07:58:58 -0500
 From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Sally Queen  Associates--annual costume calendar?
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=us-ascii

 Does anyone here know whether Sally Queen  Associates are doing a
 costume-related photo calendar for 2008?  Both their old and new websites are
 selling the old calendars, including the one for 2007, but it's December and
 there's no mention of a new calendar for 2008.  Thanks.

 --
 Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
 than to open it and remove all doubt.-- Mark Twain
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[h-cost] Re: Elizabeth Reviews

[A. Thurman]

What you said. It also seems that the director's vision was NOT one of
historical reality, either in costume or content:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/05/AR2007100500694.html

I am hoping that the acting will be good, at least!

Allison T.

On 10/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 10:14:26 -0500
 From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

 Hope Greenberg wrote:

  Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple
  moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration), the reviewer is
  spot-on. The costumes are certainly fabulous. Historically
  accuratewell...what do we expect??
 

 I expect some escapist fantasy and some pretty costumes, historical or
 not, and an evening out with my husband. Same as I'd get from any movie.


 Dawn
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[h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

[A. Thurman]

It's layered at the moment because I've got two projects in play:

1) a PVC version of a leather vest from the tv show Firefly that is
currently on hold until I find the right buckles and other notions to
complete it.

2) Over it is a white linen 16th c. shift which I am working on (along
with a shirt) as part of a base for a 16th century wardrobe suitable
for SCA events and the like.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: King Tut Exhibit

[A. Thurman]

Seconding what Martha said - a lot of the more famous items did stay
home (I'm still irked that the death mask is used in the promotional
material, but is not included in the exhibit), but a lot of the items
included are those that seldom leave Egypt and are in what in my
untutored mind is an astoundingly good state of preservation,
especially the furniture.

The exhibit also provides a broader context of Tut's reign, including
artifacts from his predecessors (I especially enjoyed some of
Akhenaten's artifacts that I'd only seen in books before).

I recommend going, if only to relive some of the nostalgia for the
glitzier 1970s touring exhibit (which I saw when I was 4 and still
remember parts of).

Obligatory textile/costume content: there is a statue that contains in
it's varnish the imprint of whatever textile (linen, I think) that it
was veiled with at the time of burial.

Allison T.

On 8/22/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 1
 Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 13:26:46 -0400
 From: Martha Oser [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Re: King Tut Exhibit
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=utf-8

  On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:
 
  The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been
  to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going
  to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my
  sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some
  feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.
 
  Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I
  gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the
  most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous
  gold mask.
 
  Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to
  me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's
  necessarily designed for maximum splash like previous Tut exhibits.
  (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)

 I saw it in Chicago last year, and I agree - a lot of the best stuff is
 still in Egypt, including Tut's death mask.  However, they had a ton of cool
 things from a wide variety of tombs.  The exhibit wasn't all just King Tut -
 it actually covered more of the family situation leading up to the reign of
 King Tut, as well as his own time.

 Do keep an open mind, though, particularly in regards to the parts about how
 Tut restored the old religion after he gained the throne.  Remember that
 he was only 9 or 10 years old at the time, so to my mind it's rather
 unlikely that he was doing anything without the guidance/influence/control
 of his advisors!

  -Martha





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 End of h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 391
 *

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[h-cost] Re: Coffee and Tea

[A. Thurman]

Penny - thanks for the tips re: the coffee grounds. My husband does
what very little planting we do around here because I have a very
brown thumb, but I put some cooled grounds + water in kitty grass
today, and I'll see how it goes.

Albert - I'm from GA and I've never liked Iced tea. You're not alone.

Allison T.

On 8/21/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 2
 Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:52:40 -0400
 From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

 Allison,

 My mother taught to just add them to the soil's surface.  We always added it
 after the coffee grounds had cooled.  I have had some house plants for over
 20 years.

 I have a very green thumb.  When I decided to go back to college, my
 decision between majors was horticulture or fashion.  I decided for fashion
 because I hate working in the heat of August.  Here are two photos of my
 latest pride and joys from my garden.
 ***9 ft. cannas and 10 ft. tall sunflower.  Neither have been fertilized.
 My son standing in-between the flowers is 6 ft. tall:
 http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1060106lg.jpg
 ***Zinnias and butterfly:
 http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1010010lg.jpg

 Penny Ladnier,
 Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
 www.costumegallery.com
 www.costumelibrary.com
 www.costumeclassroom.com
 www.costumeencyclopedia.com


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[h-cost] In print or not

[A. Thurman]

In reference to the recent discussions re: whether the Daniela
Turudich books were ever printed, I emailed a friend of mine who works
as a library cataloger in Canada and she sent me the following
regarding how to tell if a book listed is really in print or not -
library listings aren't always reliable, neither are vendors.

Allison T.

___

Agreed that WorldCat is not a reliable source ... some libraries
suppress on-order information and only let a book show in the public
catalogue, but the majority display their on-order titles; these can
be ordered anywhere from a month to a couple of years before
publication, depending on how early publication is announced (and
libraries often get promo info long before the general public does).
And, despite its name, WorldCat only accesses customers of the OCLC
cataloguing service, and not all of those connect correctly (we use it
occasionally at work, when our regular and more reliable sources let
us down).

Vendors are also not your best source of what is actually in print,
especially where specialty publications are concerned.  Out of the
palaeontology books I've been mentioning on LJ lately, only one title
was listed as in-print/available by the usual big online vendors ...
if I'd trusted them, I would have been sorely disappointed.

Your best source is the publisher's own site, if you know who that is
(this is how I confirmed the true availability of my books ... I've
added a ton of publisher site links to my oddities website, so check
there is you've got a publisher) ... most list their forthcoming
titles with projected publication dates, as well as their current
catalogue.  Another good source is the author's own website if they
have one ... they'll definitely be promoting their latest and
upcoming.

If no author site and you don't know the publisher, second best source
for you is the Library of Congress ... if the book is listed in there,
then open the record, click on the marc view tab at the top.  The
fields of the catalogue record are the set of numbers down the
lefthand side.  See if the record has a field numbered 263 ... the
data in that one is the projected publication month and year provided
by the publisher (the publisher name is in field 260, so you can use
that as your pointer to the publisher's own page).  If there's no 263
and the 300 field has the actual number of pages filled in, then the
book is, or has been, in print.  If not in LC, check the national
library for the country of publication ... they all use the marc
system, so the field 263 rule applies to all.

If you're striking out on all this, there's the last resort Google
technique that I teach in my cataloguing cheat workshop.

Go to Google homepage and click on the advanced search option to the
right of the search box.  In the Advanced Google, type the main title
of the book into the phrase box (the second one on the screen), and
the author's surname into the with all of the words box (the first
one on the screen) ... if the author's given name is distinctive, type
that into this box as well.  Hit search.  This should cough up some
leads to publisher, distributors, libraries that have it on order
(which will at least net you the publisher name, so you can then track
their site down).  NOTE:  if the book title is single word or
ordinary, e.g. just called Fashionor Psychology, reverse the
procedure ... title in the first box and entire author name in correct
order in the second box.
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RE: [h-cost] Book search?

[A. Thurman]

Thanks for posting this - I was under the impression that they were
never published, and I had my eye on several of these. Thanks!

Allison T.

On 7/31/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Message: 10
 Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:33:57 -0500
 From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

 http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html

 Amazon no longer carries it.

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[h-cost] New western martial arts magazine out

[A. Thurman]

Just found out about this and thought I'd pass it along:

http://www.wmaillustrated.com/index.htm

Allison
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[h-cost] Re: Tudor Tailor - headrail

[A. Thurman]

Thank you very much for these! Lots of good ideas for ways I can
conceal my anachronistic hair!!

Allison T.

On 6/25/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to



Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Here are the photos someone posted from the workshop
in Vallejo, CA.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157594583565881/show/
or
http://tinyurl.com/253x2u

The head wrap is somewhere in the sequence.

MaggiRos

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[h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?

[A. Thurman]

In DC there are 3 things I'm currently aware of:

Red at the Textile Museum: http://www.textilemuseum.org/exhibitions/current.htm

Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women Painters at the National Museum
of Women in the arts (not costume focused, but lots of portraits with
costume detail):
http://www.nmwa.org/exhibition/detail.asp?exhibitid=151

Native American women's dresses at the new(ish) National Museum of the
American Indian:
http://www.nmai.si.edu/subpage.cfm?subpage=exhibitionssecond=dc

If anyone is 1) interested in a hike to Baltimore and/or 2) also
interested in modern textile art, there's an exhibit of Japanese
textiles at the Baltimore Museum of Art (scroll down):
http://www.artbma.org/exhibitions/index.html

Allison T.

On 6/9/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
-


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 22:53:05 -0400
From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

either would be okay by me.  We have such a fine set of museums here, it
would be a shame to miss them.  Anything comung up?

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[h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?

[A. Thurman]

I'm game :) Do you think it would be better to just meet for food or
something costume-neutral, or try and find a museum/exhibit/something
we might all be interested in?

Allison T.

On 6/8/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to





--

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 23:11:03 -0400
From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?

Sharon Henderson wrote:
 Brenna!!!  {{{glomps}}}

 Wow, all sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
 not be surprised...  :-)

 My day job is being a business analyst and tech writer for a small
 military consulting firm in the VA 'burbs; my night job is being a
 priest in charge of a small congregation in No. VA... the rest of the
 time I costume and try to sleep.  *g*

 Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!  :-)

 Meli ferch Iasper,
 AKA Sharon Henderson


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[h-cost] DC area :)

[A. Thurman]

I'm not a policy wonk, but I AM in the DC burbs (NIH contractor) -
didn't realize that there were other local people here!

Astoundingly late notice, but there's a talk by Carole Collier Frick
tonight at the National Museum of Women in the Arts downtown:

http://www.nmwa.org/calendar/detail.asp?eventId=615

I will be there - will anyone else be?

Allison T.

On 6/6/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


--

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:47:50 -0400
From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your Day Job?
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Me too!

Jane Pease wrote:
 I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
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[h-cost] Florence in 2008

[A. Thurman]

If anyone is starting a list to coordinate activites, I would like to
be included. The odds of my being able to go are slim, but one never
knows.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?

[A. Thurman]

On 3/5/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




--

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2007 18:39:03 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

I am thoroughly enjoying this series.  I don't know much aobut costuming of
the time, but I don't even care!!!

Anyone else liking it?


Enjoying it thoroughly, less for historical accuracy (I don't know
much about Ancient Rome, but a friend who is a Roman reenactor assures
me they're taking gross liberties) but for the quality acting and
drama. Excellent stuff!


Sg


Allison
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[h-cost] Re: CostumeCon and projects

[A. Thurman]

For CC 2004 the H-Costume folks arranged for registration to put a big
red H stamp on member name tags so H-costume people could identify
each other on sight. Perhaps something similar could be arranged this
year?

At this stage, I strongly doubt I'm attending due to financial
limitations, though if I can miraculously pull some extra $ out of my
hat I would definitely shift my priorities to make it happen!

Allison T.



Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 01:14:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CostumeCon and projects
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII


On Sat, 6 Jan 2007, E House wrote:

 I'd say let's all figure out a way to meet up while we're there, but I
 expect we'll all be meeting in Robin's classes, anyway!

Y'know, the obvious thing would be for the h-cost people to meet either
before my official class time, or during the lunch break. I am allowed to
set my own schedule for my room. I will be in there setting up my slides
quite early, as soon as they unlock it for me (and then running off to
dress), but of course people would be welcome to bring the beverage of
their choice, or maybe breakfast, and come in early to socialize. Or we
could all get our lunches as take-out or brown-bag and come back to the
room -- I've asked for an hour and a half for lunch break, so there will
be plenty of time as long as people aren't all lining up at the hotel
restaurant. (There's lots of fast food in the area.) Even if you're not
signed up for my lectures, I don't think there would be any problem in you
joining a h-cost meet-and-greet either pre-lectures or during the lunch
period, as long as you scoot out when the start time approaches (and we
start checking names). I will clear this with my con-committee handlers,
of course -- I need to see whether they allow people to bring food into
the rooms, for instance.  And if there's a killer historic panel going on
during the lunch break, I don't want to suggest anything that would
compete with that. Once I'm sure of the logistics, I'll let the list know
shortly before the convention.

--Robin

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[h-cost] Spanish costume/Alcega

[A. Thurman]

I'm doing some tentative research for a 16th century Spanish woman's
outfit. Looking through Alcega's pattern book, I'm a little confused
as to the terminology and want to know whether it's a translation
error or whether there are genuinely two different garments being
described:

For example, the translation for f. 57a-f. 58a are described as
kirtles, but seem to show a skirt. Even the patterns for kirtles
and bodies show what looks like a bodice and a detached skirt. I'm
accustomed to a kirtle being an all-in-one gown or bodice with
attached skirt. This is further confused by the fact that f. 55 - f.
57 are described as skirts - the pieces seem to have curved seams
but otherwise look like skirts made to cover the lower half of the
body only.

So, I guess my question is whether for Spanish 16th century: is there
a difference between skirts and kirtles, or are the words
interchangeable for a woman's lower body garment?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: Questions re: Moda a Firenze

[A. Thurman]

Based on everyone's recommendations, I went ahead and put in a reserve
from an Italian company called Maremagnum who has to check with
their sources - I was told to expect a reply in 3 weeks. Is this the
Italian company you ordered out of, Susan?

I was under the impression that Shramansky was sold out permanently;
if this is not the case I may go ahead and put in a request with them
as well.

Allison T.


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 10:17:12 -0500
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Questions re: Moda a Firenze
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp=Yes;
format=flowed

Quoting Catherine Kinsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 snip  The only place that I know of right now that has it for
 sale is Poison Pen Press, and last time I checked, they wanted 190.00

 for it.  Evidently, I got one of the last copies that Michael
 Shramansky had! snip

 susan
 -
 Susan Farmer

 Susan; when did you last talk to Michael?  I ordered one about
 mid-December and while he was out, he was expecting another shipment
 from the Italian publishers after the holidays so I am on back order.


December the 12th.  I had ordered a copy from a company in Italy, but
it seems to have disappeared into the belly of the Postal Snail.
They're going to issue me a refund (or at least they said that they
would).  The day I heard they were out of print, I ordered one from
Michael off the web site.

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/



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[h-cost] Questions re: Moda a Firenze

[A. Thurman]

I've lucked into some Christmas gift money and am looking to
(finally!) purchase this book. However, given the hefty price tag, I'd
like to get some reviews (regrettably, the local textile library
doesn't have a copy). Some of my questions:

What are its strengths? Weaknesses?

Are the writers credible? Is the book well researched? What is the
quality/quantity of photographs? Any construction detail?

Thanks in advance!

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Any Tudor Tailorers?

[A. Thurman]

Has anyone yet made any of the patterns from the Tudor Tailor book
yet? I'm currently making a pair of venetians and am struggling to
figure out the pocket. Please feel free to email me off list.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: On Chopines

[A. Thurman]

I LOVE your red brocaded chopines! Thank you much for posting your
how to site - this will definitely go on my (massive) backlist of
potential future projects!

Allison T.

On 11/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]





--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 18:17:09 -0800
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines
To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

H-costumers,
My new chopines have been finished for a month or so now.  They're
quite a challenge to walk in.   They've got their own webpage, too.
You can scroll thru and see how they were done.  My chopines are the
tall red ones.
http://AandS.org/raisedheels/index.html
I've started dancing in them, lately.  Mostly bassedanza  pavans.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


On 9/7/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I was fitted for my new chopines last nite.  You can see a picture of
 the cork structure with the undyed footbed, and my fabric here:
 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
 The album is Works in Progress. The chopines are part of the 2nd
 set. Woo-hoo I will soon ascend to the heights of fashion!

 BTW, ladies  gents, have you seen this?  There's a lovely yellow
 velvet 16th c chopine 360' view with zoom.  Look at the tooled leather
 footbed.  That's different!  The chopine's all covered in lace  silk
 ribbon bows. 
http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/heights_of_fashion/east_meets_west/
 This is the Bata Shoe Museum's new online catalog.  Oddly you cant get
 to All About Shoes from the Bata Shoe Museum's or the reverse.  It's
 new, and that's the reason, I suppose.
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[h-cost] Anyone at Winterthur this weekend?

[A. Thurman]

Is anyone else planning to attend the Fall Forum on Fashion: Fashion
in Film this Saturday at Winterthur Museum in DE? It's the first event
listed here:

http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/RegionII/event_workshop_sym.htm

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: Wikipedia as source

[A. Thurman]

On 9/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2006 16:43:57 -0400
From: Penny [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Wikipedia as a source
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=response

Someone used Wikipedia as a source in a message, so I thought I would add my
two cents...

Wikipedia is not really a good source.  If a college student quotes
Wikipedia, they lose points.  Wikipedia can be edited or information added
by anyone.  The website started as a copy of a 1910s? encyclopedia that was
put online.  The owner of the site, decided to let anyone update the
information.


Agreed, Wikipedia isn't considered a good source. However, I would put
forth that it's a good starting place for more indepth research, as
their entries often provide references to academic websites and books.

In other words, what someone else said about finding backup - if
something piques your interest on Wikipedia, be sure and find
confirmation before accepting any of it as fact.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com



Allison T.
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[h-cost] Semi-OT: Profanity in Deadwood

[A. Thurman]

I started watching the show a couple of months ago. I'm no prude but
the length and breadth of the swearing in the first episode made my
ears curl!

Still, it's growing on me, and I wondered too about the language. It
turns out that the use of modern profanity is a deliberate choice on
the part of the creator: they tried using period swear words and to
a modern audience they sounded funny rather than the shocking effect
they were aiming for. More here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deadwood_%28TV_series%29#Use_of_profanity

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

[A. Thurman]

On 9/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Message: 6
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:23:35 -0500
From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


Answering several people's questions here.

Alexandra asked:


I'd wonder though why you chose to add cotton batting to your doublet?
 I have done rapier fencing in linen doublets and shirts, without
addition padding and was quite well protected.  It would seem to me
that the padding would add to overheating, which could hurt you more
than a small bruise or two.  Well, that's my opinion, ymmv, Alex


I added the cotton batting partly as a nod to the silk floss padding
described in Janet Arnold, and partly because the armseyes are so
high/tight I don't think I'll be able to fit my modern underarm
protector underneath. The group I fence with (mashs.org) emphasizes
safety heavily so I don't want to go to the great trouble of making
this thing and then not be able to fence in it!

Kelly asked:



The tabs look great to me, in fact the whole doublet does.  I think that
when you are fully dressed, your bottom half garment will create the look
you are after in the tabs.  They just need that stuff underneath.

Will you be wearing petticoats or venetians?


Venetians - I learned to fence in modern fencing knickers, I'd likely
trip over myself if I tried to switch to skirts now :P

Many of you mentioned the possibility that the bottom half of the
outfit - breeches or skirt - will help hold out the tabs, but I am not
so sure - venetians aren't that full up top, are they? I think I may
well add a layer of canvas for more oomph.

Thank you for your answers!

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

[A. Thurman]

I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/skirts on
men's doublets ca. 1600-1610.

Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing,
based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion
1560-1620 (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed
front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural
waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection.

Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted
on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip
beneath:

Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8

Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp

My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given
in Arnold and my eyeballing, it seems like each of the tabs should
be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2 or so, which these
are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere
because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness.

However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy
dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing
it doesn't look right to me; I think I might be comparing it in my
mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period.

Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I
just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's
16th century?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: new images of Elizabethan gowns online

[A. Thurman]

Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 19:14:16 -0500
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] new images of Elizabethan gowns online
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Greetings to all,

I've finally gotten some pictures of more of my Elizabethan gowns
online.  There are six new pages and one old page with better pictures
accessible from this menu page:

http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/eliz.html


These are beautiful, well done!


Melanie Schuessler


Allison T.



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[h-cost] Re: Useful Resource

[A. Thurman]

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 05:20:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Useful Resource
To: E List [EMAIL PROTECTED], Historical Costume List
h-costume@mail.indra.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

When the itinerant textile/costume research folks are back from Pennsic, some 
might find this pdf useful:
URL: http://www.textilemuseum.org/PDFs/Worldwidetextilecollections.pdf

Description: The International Directory of Textile Collections has been compiled by 
members of staff and volunteers at the Arthur D. Jenkins Library at the Textile Museum in 
Washington, D.C. Compiled from the Library's resources, the directory lists museums 
specializing in textiles, costumes, or rugs or museums listing them among their 
collections. Locations are listed in alphabetical order. Adobe Reader is required 
in order to view the document.


Thank you for posting this! I'm going to download and hang on to.

Also, for people in the U.S., there's a new guide put out by the
Costume Society of America listing all clothing and textile
collections:

http://www.americasclosets.com/guide.htm


Kathy/Cait.

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a 
lion's head erased gules.

Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131


Allison T.

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[h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.

[A. Thurman]

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 21:59:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Fran,

  For some of us, myself included, it is a way to communicate with other people 
of like minds. It's also a way to communicate with friends far away, telling 
people of our day, our accomplishments, letting off steam, good things, bad 
things, whatever we want to share... sort of like the comments, off topic and 
on topic that people on this list write about.


What Kimiko said above. I'm not a SAHM, but I do work in a field far
removed from costume and I have other specific and non-mainstream
interests, so LJ and other online forums (and lists like this one) are
a way to keep in touch with like-minded/interested people, see what
they're doing, compare notes, etc.

It's also good as a keeping people up to date place - sort of a
substitute for the yearly Christmas letter in which you tell everyone
what you've done for the last year; this way you save postage and
update it more frequently.

Given the slow nature of most of my costume projects, I don't keep a
separate dress diary, but I do post in my general journal about what
I'm working on when there's a development, in addition to my usual
every day stuff.

If anyone on LJ wants to Friend or Friend back, drop me a private line.

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Best prices on Moda a Firenze?

[A. Thurman]

I'm finally looking at picking up this book, and it seems like the
best price is through Polistampa.com - 58EUR converts to about $73USD
as of today; every other source (Lacis, Bookfinder.com, Alibris) lists
prices at $100 or above. My only concern that might affect price is
what Polistampa might charge for shipping - I don't read enough
Italian to tell from the site.

Does anyone have any ordering/shipping experiences with Polistampa
they'd like to share, or recommendations of other vendors? Price is a
consideration.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: treadle machines/so what are you making?

[A. Thurman]

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 17:12:29 -0400
From: Megan M. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look;
what to pay?
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Sarah Patterson wrote:

I still embarassingly have 18 sewing machines.

Reply: Only 18? My husband wishes I had only 18.  Anybody in the DC/ MD
metro suburbs interested in an antique machine head or two? I really do need
to downsize.. g
-Megan


I'm in DC/MD and I'd take you up on itif I didn't already have 2
non-functional modern (1970s) machines in my basement :P

And re: so what are you making? - I'm usually honest without the
snark, and most of the time it's interesting enough to get/keep the
clerk's attention. But I'm going to HAVE to use the line about rolling
around on it so the cats  know it's mine :P

I don't hoard fabric as much as I hoard *patterns* - on sale they're
cheap and file nicely, and half the things I pick up don't go out of
style easily (Miyake/art to wear, costume patterns) so they keep.
Anyone else?

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Re: working with leather, Firefly browncoat

[A. Thurman]

 Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 16:07:10 -0500
 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: working with leather, Firefly browncoat
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

 The only two things I've found to worry about with leather are:
 A) The thickness of the leather,  making sure that your sewing machine can
 handle it--for the browncoat, I used suede that was nearly 1/8 thick, and
 though my machine actually was capable of handling 5 layers of it, it caused
 all sorts of problems.  (But it was the only suede I could find in the right
 color, darn it!)  You just can't finish thick suede as nicely as you can
 finish garment-weight (~1.5oz-3oz) suede, and you'll find yourself calling
 the ruttin' coat a piece of gos se often, dong le mah?

So I'm looking for something specifically designated garment weight?
That's one of my big concerns - how do I choose a leather or suede,
and how do I make sure I get enough of it? I imagine it's sold by hide
and not yardage, correct?

 B) Getting the seam right the first time.  Any hole you make in the leather
 won't close back up again the way fabric would, so ty to aviod ripping out
 and re-sewing seams--it'll be obvious, and it will weaken the leather.

I have enough experience with PVC to know about the hole punch thing,
but not about the thread (below). Thanks for the tip (and you too
Chiana!)

Also thanks for the browncoats.com links - it's good to see that
there's enough of a community out there for there to be some legwork
already done :)

 Also, though a lot of people seem to like to use upholstery thread with
 leather, I didn't like the result at all; I used glazed cotton hand quilting
 thread, and it worked very well.

 -E House

Allison T.

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[h-cost] Re: Firefly browncoat

[A. Thurman]

 Message: 8
 Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 17:54:30 -0500
 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

 Shiny! =}

 Ob costume comment--Inara has some pretty darn spiffy outfits, and I made my
 husband a suede browncoat.

Fellow browncoat here! Probably a better question for the f-costume
list, but seeing as you brought it up:

What pattern (if any) did you use for your husband's browncoat? I'm
toying with making Zoey's outfit.

 -E House

Allison T.

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[h-cost] corded/trapunto doublet question

[A. Thurman]

I'm the one who about a month ago asked about possible shrinkage of
corded corsets and bodices. Based on answers here I've decided to cut
my fencing doublet pieces with an extra 1 all around, just in case.

I'm debating whether to assemble the interlining and outerlining
pieces separately before cording, or after - given that this is a
garment with armholes, I'm leaning towards cord pieces separately and
then assemble, but If anyone has any solid arguments for the other way
around I'd love to hear them!

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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[h-cost] corded corset shrinkage?

[A. Thurman]

One last question for the night:

A friend helped me drape a pattern for an early 17th c. fencing
doublet. For protection and support I want to cord the
lining/interlining like the corset described here:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html 

before adding quilted cotton padding/outer layer.

Does anyone have any experience with possible shrinkage? The site
mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly variable by fabric
type. I'm planning on making the corseted part out of cotton canvas.

Thoughts?

Thanks again,

Allison T.

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[h-cost] Re: extant inventories, Inventory Wiki, etc.

[A. Thurman]

Reading about all these extant inventories makes me practically ache
with envy, mostly that I don't have the time, languages, or education
to dig into one of them properly!

However, I do know computers and the web. I think a Wiki-type
collaborative project on one of these documents would be a plausible
way to share the work. I don't imagine there's much
academic/publishing credit involved, but just to get the material out
there.

If ever a project of this type is started, I'd love to hear more about
it and offer what services I can.

Allison T. (back to lurking)

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[h-cost] Re: playing in period societies?

[A. Thurman]

It might also be worthwhile to look at historic martial arts
(http://www.thehaca.com/, www.mashs.org and similar) for people
interested in period play. I know the SCA does some of this but I
don't know how invested they are in true period fighting techniques -
I fence with MASHS and their devotion to the old manuals can be as
fervent as some of the h-costume memberships adherence to primary
costume sources. And they've got to have *something* to fence in!

Allison T.
 --

 Message: 14
 Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:57:14 -0700
 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: playing in period societies? Re: [h-cost] why
 renaissance...
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 English country dance is an even better place to meet people with
 historical interests. There are many branches of the Country Dance and
 Song Society in the US.  Their website is:

 http://www.cdss.org/

 Despite being a historically inauthentic revival, English country dance
 is easy, fun, full of friendly people, and many places have excellent
 live musicians playing.  I think the SCA uses English country dance a
 lot at gatherings, not because it's really authentic but because
 everyone can do it. So do baroque and Regency gatherings where people
 don't know authentic steps.  And a fair number of people who do English
 country dance also do other folk dance forms, especially contra dance,
 Irish country dance, Scottish country dance (their society's URL is
 http://www.rscds.org/), and Morris dance.  And, a fair number of people
 who are interested in one or more of these dance forms, are interested
 in historic dance (especially Victorian) or can become interested in it
 if they hear about an event. All these dance groups are open to having
 flyers for other dances deposited on tables somewhere near the entrance,
 put there for exactly that purpose.  Everyone does it, there are usually
 piles of them.

 Many people do several of the (related) dance forms above, so local
 groups try to pick different regular nights and not to hold big special
 workshops on the same day. It's not because they feel threatened
 (especially since the organizers are often the same for more than one
 group).  Quite the reverse, it's because they know a lot of dancers want
 to go to everything in the area and don't want to deprive anyone.  (I
 should add, though, that Morris dance is a performance dance. You can
 attend open try this dance intro workshops, and many groups welcome
 beginner members;  but regular rehearsals are usually not open for
 people to drop in.)

 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 http://www.lavoltapress.com


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[h-cost] Re: Current fashion magazines

[A. Thurman]

I don't subscribe to fashion magazines and seldom buy them (I find
they end up taking space long after I'm interested in them), but when
I do it's either something for inspiration (Vogue and similar that
show couture or various subcultural/music oriented fashion
magazines) or something that just shows me what's in the stores, like
Lucky or Shop.

The latter type tends to suck all creativity out of fashion because a
lot of it just shows you what's in the stores and various price
points, but sometimes that's exactly what I want - a list of, say,
blazers with pictures detailing where it is and how much it costs
saves me a lot of time I could waste trolling the local shopping mall
not finding anything I like/anything I can afford!

Allison T.

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[h-cost] enough yardage for men's liene?

[A. Thurman]

I've got 3 yards of 50 wide yellow linen that I'd like to make into a
liene for my husband. He's 6'3, 240 lbs - is there any way I can
squeeze a reasonably long (knee length) liente for him out of only 3
yards (any time period)?

I'm aware of the Reconstructing History pattern but I don't want to
get it if I don't have enough fabric.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Re: [h-cost] Mrs. Pemberton's partlet?

[A. Thurman]

 Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 08:55:13 +1000
 From: koid gath [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mrs. Pemberton's partlet?
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 IIRC that was Kirrily Robert aka Skud. It was on her elizabethan geek
 website which no longer seems to exists

Thanks for sending it though - I found a Google cached version of the
page and gave me some ideas :)


 
 Sharon


Allison T.

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