After a few years on the sidelines, it looks as if I'm going to be jumping back
into repeater ownership. I have a few nice pieces left from my last adventure,
including a TX/RX duplexer and a loaded S-COM 7K, but I'm pondering choices in
RF decks. This will be a local UHF machine designated as
On Sun, 25 Apr 2010, George wrote:
well this amplifier is rated 90 watts you can see it on e-bay just
type powerwave in the search. it has error eliminating computer inside
and no distortion what so ever. i have it modified and use it at 450
watts and i pushed it with two power supplys that
On Sun, 25 Apr 2010, Joe wrote:
Just be careful. At the ERP antenna output levels that you are
playing with and frequencies involved, things can get dangerous for
human exposure.
Anything above 50W, an OET 65 RF Field Study must be done.
--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR
Disinformation Analyst
Eric
Thanks for the confirmation. I found a Micor UHF amp so will use that
and put the GE on the shelf.
Larry
This is entirely right!
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kris Kirby k...@... wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2010, George wrote:
well this amplifier is rated 90 watts you can see it on e-bay just
type powerwave in the search. it has error eliminating computer inside
and no distortion what
Hello all,
I am in the process of putting up a 2M repeater on what I would consider a
pretty vacant site. There is only one other machine (70cm Repeater) currently
out there. My concern is with an AC (60Hz) buzz that comes across on the VHF
band. It doesn't have a signal to it that will
Start here:
http://www.arrl.org/radio-frequency-interference-rfi
GL, 73,
john WA1ABI
Wade,
This sounds like a defective insulator or cable clamp sparking on a power
pole. Such interference can carry for many miles. Try using a portable
radio with a handheld Yagi antenna to pinpoint the source. The power
company must repair this defect.
73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
-Original
How do they power the site if the nearest HV is over a mile away? I suspect
when you say HV, you mean transmission voltages. However, distribution
voltages are pretty high - 2.4 KV and up.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net
To:
Distribution voltages begin at 2,400 and go to 34,500 volts. Transmission
voltages begin at ... depends upon the utility. Could be 46,000, 69,000 or
115,000.
Anyway... it's not the voltage. It's simply there is a device issue somewhere
on a power line.
Could be a bad connector. A
Good question Paul. Remember the Mitrek RF decks are almost the same
used in the MSR2000 repeater, and with their tuned helical front end
make great receivers.
For the transmitter however, I would not run it on its own. Also
reducing the power output below 50-66% of rating might cause
Remote hilltop sites are very often fed with a lateral power line that taps
off from a major distribution line that could be miles away. If nothing but
the hilltop site is on that lateral, and with the site owner's permission,
the power utility can pull the cutout fuses to kill the lateral
I've used a lot of Mitreks as repeaters and loved them, but you're right about
the PA -- if you don't like fans, it's going to get too hot. Consider getting
the exciter output after the helical filters and use a different PA. I have a
couple of Mitreks stashed in a corner somewhere just in case
I am brand new to this group. I am setting up a MTR2000 with an ARCOM RC210
controller. All is going well until I get to the CTCSS encode/decode. How do
you set this up?
There is a pin on the MTR called Rx Un-squelched. Is that where I should get
the CTCSS audio out from the MTR? Then what?
Kevin - I'd like a copy for our files as well, just in case. Thanks!
John Hymes
La Rue Communications
10 S. Aurora Street
Stockton, CA 95202
http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
- Original Message -
From: kevin valentino
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
I converted a UHF Mitrek for full duplex packet operation once. Don't
recommend it because the Mitrek rx and
tx are on a single board which results in transmit chain spurs and harmonics
getting into the rx. The task required
a spectrum analyzer and several hours experimenting with various
I have found tracking to be pretty easy using my ham mobile tuned to an AM
aircraft frequency and open the squelch. Gets you down to the individual
pole.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April
Could also be a ground loop in the audio chain somewhere...start lifting
shields one at a time in the repeat audio chain and see if it goes away.
On 4/26/2010 10:36 AM, Eric Lemmon wrote:
Wade,
This sounds like a defective insulator or cable clamp sparking on a power
pole. Such interference
Stan,
You can find the answers to many questions on the MTR2000 pages, here:
www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/mtr2k/mtr-index.html
I'm curious: Since the MTR2000 has a very capable controller built-in, why
use an external controller? There are some functions that will require the
Auxiliary
At 07:37 AM 04/26/10, you wrote:
I am brand new to this group. I am setting up a MTR2000 with an
ARCOM RC210 controller. All is going well until I get to the CTCSS
encode/decode. How do you set this up?
There is a pin on the MTR called Rx Un-squelched. Is that where I
should get the CTCSS
Isn't the rpt. going to be built using (2) Mitrex, thus shielding should not be
a problem. I have, in the past (with the help of a Bridgeport mill), fashioned
Larger Heatsinks, that bolt onto the orig. Mitrex heat sinkseems to
dissipate heat well.
I have an MSR-2000 (100w) rpt. that
I want the external controller so that I can control 2 repeaters and a remote
base from the same controller. Also I want to use some of the features on the
Arcom controller.
Stan
From: Eric Lemmon
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:50 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE:
At 07:23 AM 04/26/10, you wrote:
Hello all,
I am in the process of putting up a 2M repeater on what I would
consider a pretty vacant site. There is only one other machine
(70cm Repeater) currently out there. My concern is with an AC
(60Hz) buzz that comes across on the VHF band. It
I have taken up programming MT1000's. I am having trouble getting some radios
that have DTMF to accept the fronts. I have several different model fronts and
have tried them all to no avail. Is there a specific procedure to get the
control module to recognize the DTMF front? I continually get
Yes, it does go away when it rains. I can't believe I forgot that detail in the
original post. I do thibnk the Air band AM reciever trick will be used by us to
locate this. One other thing I just remembered. There is another site abuot 30
miles away. (The site that this tower orginally
i looked at the pdf that you refering and there is requirements for mesuring if
the signal is more powerful than 1640 watts and the antenna is 10 meters or
less accessibel by people...my antenna is more than 10 meters above the closest
person and the signal is less powerful than 450 watts.
Make sure that you have DTMF fronts and not selectable MDC1200 fronts, IIRC
they looked pretty much alike. The MDC ones had a protrusion at the top
while the DTMF ones did not.
Milt
N3LTQ
- Original Message -
From: brown7...@bellsouth.net
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Tim,
My plan at this point is to convert them to full duplex, so I can use the
second Mitrek to prepare a complete, plug-in, standby set of RF decks. The mods
look very straightforward, but I was wondering if there were any gremlins
people discovered.
Your heatsink approach, however, is
I had a similar problem at my house and it was tearing up my packet
digipeater. It turned out to be microspark interference. See this message:
http://www.mail-archive.com/repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com/msg50828.html
It turned out to be a tie-wire that is used to hold the wire into the
Milt,
I have NTN5040A and NTN5596A fronts, which are DTMF.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Milt men...@... wrote:
Make sure that you have DTMF fronts and not selectable MDC1200 fronts, IIRC
they looked pretty much alike. The MDC ones had a protrusion at the top
while the DTMF ones
Because of the internal desense issue, I'd build them the same, but operate
the two radios separately. That is, use one as a transmitter and the other
as the receiver by default. No duplex mods required. If the Tx dies on
one, swap the system cables around to make the formerly-transmitter
At 10:49 AM 4/26/2010, Paul Plack wrote:
Your heatsink approach, however, is exactly what I was talking
about. I have several very large heatsinks originally designed for
use with big SCR switching circuits which look to be more than
generous for a 30w PA at 100% duty cycle.
Remember
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, George wrote:
i looked at the pdf that you refering and there is requirements for
mesuring if the signal is more powerful than 1640 watts and the
antenna is 10 meters or less accessibel by people...my antenna is more
than 10 meters above the closest person and the
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, Paul Plack wrote:
Your heatsink approach, however, is exactly what I was talking about.
I have several very large heatsinks originally designed for use with
big SCR switching circuits which look to be more than generous for a
30w PA at 100% duty cycle. My first
Paul,
Using one Chassis for full duplex may cause some problems, as mentioned in an
earlier post!
More than likely, you should be able to find many Mitrek radios for next to
nothing. This way, you will be able to run separate rec. and xmitter, thus you
won't have to worry too much about
Ken,
Correct, of course, but I'm assuming that in a 30w PA, smaller components not
somehow directly sunk to the main chassis heatsink will reach their max
operating temps in a very few seconds of key-down, and therefore have to be
spec'd the same for intermittent duty PAs as if they would if
I've been looking around for a short cabinet, and can't seem to find what I'm
looking for. The MSR2000 cab I have is not deep enough for my repeater
project. If anyone has anything they want to get rid of in the CT area, contact
me off list.
Thanks!!
Kris, looking at the pictures of the Mitreks of various power levels, I'm not
confident there would be holes and heatsink pads in the high-power case that
line up with the board mounts and needed contact points of the low-power PA
board. But yes - I had considered that approach.
I am
Jeff,
I appreciate the thoughts. Anytime I've looked at a scheme which allows simply
swapping the TX and RX to get back on the air, I arrive at the same
conclusions...
(1) If I took a lightning hit at the site, I'd want my spares to have been
stored somewhere else.
(2) Once I swap the TX and
At 11:47 AM 4/26/2010, Paul Plack wrote:
Ken,
Correct, of course, but I'm assuming that in a 30w PA, smaller
components not somehow directly sunk to the main chassis heatsink
will reach their max operating temps in a very few seconds of
key-down, and therefore have to be spec'd the same
I appreciate the thoughts. Anytime I've looked at a scheme
which allows simply swapping the TX and RX to get back on the
air, I arrive at the same conclusions...
(1) If I took a lightning hit at the site, I'd want my spares
to have been stored somewhere else.
(2) Once I swap the TX and
Same here Larry - We have a bunch of cabinets that we are trying to get rid of
on the cheap as well. Deep ones like yours. Need to make room for a Two Way
Radio Museum here and scrapping the units that are not selling.
We dont even have the units on eBay or Craigslist, but Kijiji and Craigslist
At 12:43 PM 4/26/2010, larryjspamme...@teleport.com wrote:
Too bad you're so far away (I'm in Portland, OR). I'm just getting
ready to list some on the local craigslist - my garage is
overflowing and some cars need the space. I have some of the deep
Quantar/MICOR type cabinets - the short
Go visit your local two-way shops, chances are they have some.
Milt
N3LTQ
- Original Message -
From: rush8001 unidens...@hotmail.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 2:47 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 3' motorola or GE cabinet wanted.
I've been
I have run into a brick wall at a rather high rate of speed... as fast as DOS
can run anyway.
I am trying to figure out the band split of a (Presumed) VHF Saber Securenet
Capable portable / handheld.
I have the standard DOS RSS for Saber version 07.01.00 with a Moto Rib Box etc.
I have
Ken,
Thanks, appreciate the link. This document adds a few details to what I had on
hand. Good to know the high-split Mitreks weren't prone to the spurs when
duplexed.
Also encouraging to read that the 30w radios will run 100% at 20w with the
smaller heatsink. That's probably all the power
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 2:20 PM, Kris Kirby k...@catonic.us wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, George wrote:
i looked at the pdf that you refering and there is requirements for
mesuring if the signal is more powerful than 1640 watts and the
antenna is 10 meters or less accessibel by people...my
Larry, are any of your cabinets outdoor types? I'm in Salt Lake City, but have
relatives near you who could pick up store, and might be interested. - Paul,
AE4KR
- Original Message -
From: larryjspamme...@teleport.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, Paul Plack wrote:
I am completely unfamiliar with the Syntor, cost, availability, etc.,
but I'm also early in the process of nosing around locally. I'm
willing to look at any plentiful, high-quality radios for the
conversion. 73, Paul, AE4KR
Syntor -- not Syntor X
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, La Rue Communications wrote:
I have run into a brick wall at a rather high rate of speed... as fast
as DOS can run anyway.
I am trying to figure out the band split of a (Presumed) VHF Saber
Securenet Capable portable / handheld.
I have the standard DOS RSS for Saber
Thanks Kris! Good stuff!
Can you think of any reason why this radio will not be read by the RSS in the
first place? All I get are Serial Bus I/O Error was detected. I know it seems
like something not connected properly, but it reads all other models of Sabers
just fine. This is the only RSS I
Yes, I can. A Systems Saber radio requires RVN4051 RSS, while a Saber radio
requires RVN4002 RSS, and an Astro Saber radio requires RVN4182 RSS.
73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of La
Paul,
I have some aluminum traffic signal boxes that are 5 1/2 feet tall 20 inches
wide and 3 1/2 feet deep. Here in Northern California that are just perfect
for outdoor repeater cabinets.
Gregory AC6VJ
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Plack pl...@... wrote:
Larry, are any
I ran a Duplexed 50W UHF mitrek @30W with a Fan on the heat sink for 5 years
without a problem. I Upgraded that site to a full blown UHF Micor Repeater
that is 75W. As expected on the TX the range is better, but the Micor is also a
slight bit better on the RX as well. I will probably re-use the
Tom,
Yes - the spurs mentioned were not the ones created by running the power too
low. Apparently, the 406-420 Mitreks had a separate issue which was not
dependent on power setting, in which the local oscillator for the receiver
would get into the exciter's multiplier chain.
I think almost
sir i agree...if you have infra red heater at front of you 2kw and the power is
heating your ass after 6 hours of working outside at temperature below 20
degrees F you will be apreciative for the comfort this thing provides and you
will not be asking yourself how hapmful this microwave emitter
Greetings to the group
Just wondering if anyone has a schematic for the TLE1713A PA.
I have been trying to fire it up with 1 watt from a Maxtrac but not a thing out
of it.
Randy Elliott VE3JPU
Technical Director
South Pickering Amateur Radio Club Inc.
Box 53
Pickering, Ontario, Canada
L1V
if the microwave oven is a square of 10 meters does it gonna boil watter...???
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dan KC2BEZ simmons@... wrote:
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 2:20 PM, Kris Kirby k...@... wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, George wrote:
i looked at the pdf that you
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010, La Rue Communications wrote:
Can you think of any reason why this radio will not be read by the RSS
in the first place? All I get are Serial Bus I/O Error was detected.
I know it seems like something not connected properly, but it reads
all other models of Sabers just
There was a 6 meter repeater here in Connecticut that was receiving
interference from an AM station several states away that was
broadcasting on 1000KHz. It only occurred in the nighttime. (The 6
meter repeater was on a 1MHz split). They narrowed it down to something
on the 21+ towers that
I snowed here yesterday, does that count? ;-)
In all seriousness so far we only know that it comes and goes. We've yet
to find a clear pattern of day/night, week day/weekend (it's on an office
tower) , hot/cold, wet/dry, etc. yet. We hope to do a bit of a fox hunt
at the sight later this
No words of wisdom, Bruce. but wanted to offer my condolences. The dang
pager interference we've got is about to drive me to drink. which is
probably the ONLY nice thing I can say about it.
Hope you find your demon!
73,
Mike
WM4B
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
I want to link two repeaters together and have a couple of Icom 37a 220 rigs
on the shelf. I have been searching for info on the best place to grab a
signal to drive a COR. Does anyone have any info on this?
Thanks!!
73
K5ILS
Robert
Didnt those have a green LED on the front panel for COR?
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 9:07 PM, Robert McNeill rob...@ncbfi.org wrote:
I want to link two repeaters together and have a couple of Icom 37a 220
rigs on the shelf. I have been searching for info on the best place to grab
a signal to
Hey All,
I am trying to think of a way to detect if a tower at one of our sites
gets a direct hit. I was thinking of paralleling a ground strap with
a 10mA amp glass fuse. Maybe make the two connections to the ground
stap 2 ft apart and use a fuse holder for fuse testing and
replacement. I
Jesse,
A radio engineer in Atlanta years ago told me a neat trick he said allows
confirming a strike, and estimating the current it produced. It involves
rexcording an audio tone on a piece of magnetic tape several feet long, sealing
it in a weatherproof, non-conductive tube, and positioning
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