VACList-Digest       Saturday, August 4, 2001      Issue 21
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: Original paint on cast nameplate by door/Window Q
        2. Re: Copper pipes seem non-standard size
        3. AC Is Installed
        4. Re: Plumbing on 69 Safari
        5. Re: AC Is Installed
        6. Re: 957 Custom / newbie questions
        7. Re: verseas Shipments
        8. Re: AC Is Installed
        9. Re: Plumbing
       10. Re: This is Art?
       11. Re: Experience & Expertise Needed - Bowen WH Removal
       12. Jalousie windows
       13. Re: 957 Custom / newbie questions
       14. Re: Northwest Rally




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 01 19:57:09 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Original paint on cast nameplate by door/Window Q

>Does anyone know where to get replacements for 
>the "felt" fuzzy strips that are glued onto the back of 
>the window crank trim strips?  This is not a crank 
>opener, but the rod bar opener.  Mine are deteriorated 
>and bunching up when I open the windows.
=================
GEt through your Airstream dealer. 

Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)  



------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:33:56 -0600
From: "Bruce Deitle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Copper pipes seem non-standard size

Just as an additional opinion I had a number of places on my Argosy that
the pipe (1/2" copper) was larger than 1/2".  Local Tech told he has
seen that happen many times (we're in Montana)and it is from freezing
and the copper can be fine in one area then move a foot away and it will
be oversized.  I gave up trying to cobble it back together and replaced
all copper with PEX and Flair fittings and am very pleased with the
results.  Also, I meant to write in sooner concerning the discussion we
had awhile back about replacing shocks.  I was very hesitant to start
the job but it turned out to be easy.  Used two floors jacks.  The axles
dropped easily and the change went well just doing one at a time.
Thanks for the input I received on the PEX and Flair It fittings.
Bruce 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Dan
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 9:29 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Copper pipes seem non-standard size


 



------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 00:29:14 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: AC Is Installed

Hello All,
We did it! Installed the AC on our own in 2 nights after work. Well, I 
cheated and left work early today and was able to start on it at about 3pm, 
just finished at 11:00 PM after some clean up. I will put together some notes 
over the next 2 weeks while on vacation, if you would like some info send me 
an e-mail and I would be glad to let you know how it went. Over all not to 
bad, a little stressful, we go on vacation tomarrow and the last part showed 
up yesterday UPS. I did not have time to take any photos of any worth because 
of the time crunch, I apologize in advance. But I hope that I can put 
together some tips that will save you some time and trouble, like the 
compressor is not bolted through the roof of the coach! A crow bar will break 
it loose from the top! And most of all the old unit is D---- heavy but is you 
get it moving good you can through it off the top without hitting the side of 
the Stream! I did leave a good dent in the yard. Best of all I only lost 2 
pints of blood and I should heal by the time I have to go back to work. I 
only lost one wrench.

But the good news is the thing cools the 95 + degree weather in WI and my 
wife won't sweat while she sleeps.

Drop me a lie and I'll fill you in.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (Cool as a cucumber)


------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 01:20:34 -0500
From: "?? ???" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing on 69 Safari


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 Peter:
The last owner of my 69 Overlander set out to repair all the plumbing bre=
aks and ran some credible copper line, which looks great, some plastic tu=
bing, which works and some insulated line that's kinda clumsy but servica=
ble.  Minor leaks, easily fixed.  Problem is, he took the bathroom apart =
to do it, and putting it back together is a very exact science.  I've got=
 minor gaps, a little daylight, some broken rivet holes..He left the rive=
ted flange track & cover track off & now I'm debating piecing the bathroo=
m back together properly & riveting said track back or getting some adhes=
ive backed molding to run in the channel. I'd lean to the latter if I fou=
nd a source for 3/4" molding without chrome accents (auto part store stuf=
f).  I'm putting some time in it tomorrow & may know more then.
Be careful how you take the fiberglass panels out.  Take lots of pictures=
 w/ a digital camera, try not to bend the flange track or molding that sn=
aps into it.  Label every piece in a manner that leaves no room for inter=
pretation.  The first reply to your posting said a lot that I would agree=
 with.. you don't have half the problems you think you do, the sink & tub=
 "leaks" are probably just the gray water dynamics, the knife valve is ea=
sily fixed.  You might get by on the freash water intake with a rubber ho=
se gasket & a little muscle in the seating of the coupling, assuming the =
leak isn't further downstream.  Check with Jim Greene on that hot water h=
eater, he's doing his 69 Tradewind as we speak.
BTW, if any list members have fixed their bathroom trim, please advise.  =
What I have is servicable but unasthetic & might leak shower water into t=
he insulation.  Please feel free to send photos off list with specific qu=
estions, I'm figuring it all out, too, & could use the emotional support
Jeff Miller
KCMO
69 Overbudget

Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 21:28:40 -0600
From: peter kearns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Plumbing

Hi Folks,
I have a 69 safari which I have had for 3 years and slowly but surely
fixing up. No need to rehash old horror stories as I start to cry when i
think about all the money and time I have put into it.
My next project is a major plumbing overhaul.

   * the kitchen sink backs up into the tub
   * the tub leaks out onto the ground
   * the black water sewage slide leaks
   * the hot water tank leaks
   * the fresh water intake line leaks where you attach the hose.

My question is does anybody have any experience with major plumbing
overhaul and is so I cannot decide whether to try and get at everything
form underneath the trailer by removing the belly pan, it looks like
there is some kind of access panel there or is it easier to tear out the
bathroom from the inside and try to repair the obviously cracked ABS
pipe. Or maybe I have to do both.
Anybody who can share their thoughts would be appreciated.

-- Peter Kearns
Campground Manager Software/ Mission Mgt. Information Systems
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.campgroundmanager.com
1-800-547-9147
fax 905-374-4493

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&nbsp;Peter:</=
DIV> <DIV>The last owner of my 69 Overlander set out to repair all the pl=
umbing breaks and ran some credible copper line, which looks great, some =
plastic tubing, which works and some insulated line that's kinda clumsy b=
ut servicable.&nbsp; Minor leaks, easily fixed.&nbsp; Problem is, he took=
 the bathroom apart to do it, and putting it back together is a very exac=
t science.&nbsp; I've got minor gaps, a little daylight, some broken rive=
t holes..He left the riveted flange track &amp; cover track off &amp; now=
 I'm debating piecing the bathroom back together properly &amp; riveting =
said track back or getting some adhesive backed molding to run in the cha=
nnel. I'd lean to the latter if I found a source for 3/4" molding without=
 chrome accents (auto part store stuff).&nbsp; I'm putting some time in i=
t tomorrow &amp; may know more then.</DIV> <DIV>Be careful how you take t=
he fiberglass panels out.&nbsp; Take lots of pictures w/ a digital camera=
, try not to bend the flange track or molding that snaps into it.&nbsp; L=
abel every piece in a manner that leaves no room for interpretation.&nbsp=
; The first reply to your posting said a lot that I would agree with.. yo=
u don't have half the problems you think you do, the sink &amp; tub "leak=
s" are probably just the gray water dynamics, the knife valve is easily f=
ixed.&nbsp; You might get by on the freash water intake with a rubber hos=
e gasket &amp; a little muscle in the seating of the coupling, assuming t=
he leak isn't further downstream.&nbsp; Check with Jim Greene on that hot=
 water heater, he's doing his 69 Tradewind as we speak.</DIV> <DIV>BTW, i=
f any list members have fixed their bathroom trim, please advise.&nbsp; W=
hat I have is servicable but unasthetic &amp; might leak shower water int=
o the insulation.&nbsp; Please feel free to send photos off list with spe=
cific questions, I'm figuring it all out, too, &amp; could use the emotio=
nal support</DIV> <DIV>Jeff Miller</DIV> <DIV>KCMO</DIV> <DIV>69 Overbudg=
et</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 21:28:40 -0600<BR>=
From: peter kearns &lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]&gt;<BR>Subject: Plumbing<BR><B=
R>Hi Folks,<BR>I have a 69 safari which I have had for 3 years and slowly=
 but surely<BR>fixing up. No need to rehash old horror stories as I start=
 to cry when i<BR>think about all the money and time I have put into it.<=
BR>My next project is a major plumbing overhaul.<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; * th=
e kitchen sink backs up into the tub<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; * the tub leaks out =
onto the ground<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; * the black water sewage slide leaks<BR>&=
nbsp;&nbsp; * the hot water tank leaks<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; * the fresh water =
intake line leaks where you attach the hose.<BR><BR>My question is does a=
nybody have any experience with major plumbing<BR>overhaul and is so I ca=
nnot decide whether to try and get at everything<BR>form underneath the t=
railer by removing the belly pan, it looks like<BR>there is some kind of =
access panel there or is it easier to tear out the<BR>bathroom from the i=
nside and try to repair the obviously cracked ABS<BR>pipe. Or maybe I hav=
e to do both.<BR>Anybody who can share their thoughts would be appreciate=
d.<BR><BR>-- Peter Kearns<BR>Campground Manager Software/ Mission Mgt. In=
formation Systems<BR>[EMAIL PROTECTED]<BR>www.campgroundmanager.com<BR>=
1-800-547-9147<BR>fax 905-374-4493<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 00:24:06 -0500
From: GeorgeHumphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: AC Is Installed

Ed,

Bad News. In my business we would have to remove the new AC and find the
wrench. Aircraft mods are a lot like airstream work, just a little more
careful with those wrenches. hi hi

George


At 12:29 AM 8/4/01 EDT, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>We did it! Installed the AC on our own in 2 nights after work. Well, I 
>cheated and left work early today and was able to start on it at about 3pm, 
>just finished at 11:00 PM after some clean up. I will put together some
notes 
>over the next 2 weeks while on vacation, if you would like some info send me 
>an e-mail and I would be glad to let you know how it went. Over all not to 
>bad, a little stressful, we go on vacation tomarrow and the last part showed 
>up yesterday UPS. I did not have time to take any photos of any worth
because 
>of the time crunch, I apologize in advance. But I hope that I can put 
>together some tips that will save you some time and trouble, like the 
>compressor is not bolted through the roof of the coach! A crow bar will
break 
>it loose from the top! And most of all the old unit is D---- heavy but is
you 
>get it moving good you can through it off the top without hitting the side
of 
>the Stream! I did leave a good dent in the yard. Best of all I only lost 2 
>pints of blood and I should heal by the time I have to go back to work. I 
>only lost one wrench.
>
>But the good news is the thing cools the 95 + degree weather in WI and my 
>wife won't sweat while she sleeps.
>
>Drop me a lie and I'll fill you in.
>Ed
>WBCCI/VAC 4425
>68 Sovereign (Cool as a cucumber)
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> 
>
>


------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:26:09 +0200
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Lorenz Weiss)
Subject: Re: 957 Custom / newbie questions


Lorenz Weiß
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi RJ & Krista,

I just checked my Airstream thoroughly and found out that the order sheet you 
sent me shows exactly the former layout of my trailer. It is a great help for 
me- thanks a lot! In Germany, there seems to be almost nobody who has any 
knowledge about vintage Airstreams, and everything I learned about it I got from 
the web. I have restored two vintage trailers before (a 1961 Eriba Puck and a 
1969 Schaefer Suleica), but the 1957 Airstream is the biggest challenge by far, 
and I am trying to restore it as close to the original as possible.

Kind regards,
Lorenz Weiss



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:26:08 +0200
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Lorenz Weiss)
Subject: Re: verseas Shipments


Lorenz Weiss
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Hi Sharon,

Shipping an Airstream to Germany is only part of the story. A shipping company 
in Hamburg did most of the work for me (shipping, customs declaration and so 
on). I payed around $ 2.300 for shipping, that includes also customs duties and 
tax. My trailer was shipped via Los Angeles and traveled in a freight container. 

The major problem arises when you want to registrate an Airstream in Germany. 
The TUEV (the German traffic authority) requests you to change some parts in 
order to go conform with German traffic laws. Electrical brakes are not allowed 
over here, and so you have to install a licensed type of axle with a mechanical 
brake system. The same problem arises if you want to keep any appliances which 
use LP gas: only licensed ovens, ranges etc. are allowed. (I wonder what those 
guys will say about my forty-year-old Duo-Therm, hehe...) 
I hope I will find an inspector who likes vintage camping trailers...

Airstreams are not very common in Europe. Okay, many people know them from 
television or the movies, but on the road they are hard to find. Most of the 
Airstream trailers in Germany had been converted into trailers used for 
promotional purposes, diners or similar. I think there are no more than about 
fifteen or twenty vintage Airstreams which are really used for recreational 
purposes. (My own trailer will never be used for anything but its original 
purpose- travelling around!!!) 

I really enjoy restoring my Airstream- and I will even more enjoy travelling 
around across Europe in it when the work is finally done.

Kind regards,

Lorenz Weiss



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 08:56:31 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: AC Is Installed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Hello All,
> We did it! Installed the AC on our own in 2 nights after work. 

Good work. Fill us in on the details.



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 10:30:06 -0400
From: "Dan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing

I was perusing some Airstream list archives, and ran across a refrence to
someone who had installed an arrangement of 3" pvc pipe between the floor
and underbelly skin. A quasi grey water tank - said he got about a 10 gallon
capacity. If you do need to remove the skin, you might want to consider this
before replacing it.

Dan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Peter,
>
> As you know these older trailers do not have wash water/gray water tanks.
If
> you cap the outlet any water put down a sink will eventually back up into
> the tub. The way to avoid this is to take the cap off and let it drain. If
> you do not have a sewer connection a covered portable tank is used to
> collect this used water (some areas you can still drain this onto the
> ground). The only other way around it is to install a wash water/gray
water
> tank. Others have done this and can help you out.
>
> Before you try to remove the underbelly you should understand that most of
> the plumbing is on top of the flooring.



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 11:48:05 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: This is Art?

Funny looking awning...
Daisy

Richard Dais wrote:
> 
> Take a look at this: http://seelouisiana.com/ucm/airstream.htm
> 
> Rich
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>


------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 16:38:21 -0400
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Experience & Expertise Needed - Bowen WH Removal

HI Jim,

I just wrestled my vintage Bowen out of its hole last week..  I had full
access to both the inside and outside and it was still a struggle.  The
Bowen in my 1977 Tradewind did not have any attachments beyond those on
the flange, but there was such a huge wad of caulking in the wall that
it took some slow, careful prying to get it out.  You didn't mention
anything about disconnecting the water connections, but I assume that
you were able to do this because the WH isn't going anywhere unless it's
disconnected.  One other thing that will make your life difficult is the
strips of aluminum that are pop-rivited to the inside wall that cover
the space between the hole in the inside skin and the WH.  As I said, I
had full access to the inside so I was able to remove these strips.  If
it turns out to be caulk that is holding the beast in, I recommend
careful application of a wide, flat pry bar.

Good luck,

Lincoln Soule



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 14:10:24 -0700
From: Susan Altstatt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Jalousie windows


All, and in particular Jere Potter;

I'm reworking my jalousie windows on my 64 Safari, and
need a source of the slide-in side seals.

Some time ago Jere Potter mentioned finding the slip-in side seals
at a glass shop. Jere, if you're still out there,
could you please tell me the name of the glass shop where
you found yours? I haven't been able to find them yet.
The glass shop I was in this morning had never seen anything
like it.

Also, did you replace the horizontal rubber extrusion seals
at the top
and bottom? (the ones the top pane and bottom pane close against).

Thank You,

Susan Altstatt


------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:49:18 -0700
From: "Vanessa Dillon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 957 Custom / newbie questions

Hi All,
Lorenz, What model and lenght is your '57 Airstream?
Just Curious.
Vanessa
The Trailer Lady
'56 Overlander (26')
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lorenz Weiss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 3:26 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 957 Custom / newbie questions


>
> Lorenz Weiß
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Hi RJ & Krista,
>
> I just checked my Airstream thoroughly and found out that the order sheet
you
> sent me shows exactly the former layout of my trailer. It is a great help
for
> me- thanks a lot! In Germany, there seems to be almost nobody who has any
> knowledge about vintage Airstreams, and everything I learned about it I
got from
> the web. I have restored two vintage trailers before (a 1961 Eriba Puck
and a
> 1969 Schaefer Suleica), but the 1957 Airstream is the biggest challenge by
far,
> and I am trying to restore it as close to the original as possible.
>
> Kind regards,
> Lorenz Weiss
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:53:09 -0700
From: "Vanessa Dillon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Northwest Rally

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Patrick,
Thanyou for taking the time to send me that info.  I'm going to see if I =
can convince my parents to attend with me with my trailer.  Do we need =
reservations?
Vanessa
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Patrick Ewing=20
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 9:03 AM
  Subject: [VAC] Northwest Rally


  The VAC's Region 10 will be having it's very first annual "Majestic =
Mt. Baker" rally on August 16th - 19th, 2001. This is Thursday through =
noon Sunday. Since a number of VAC members are Tin Can Tourist members =
as well this will be a joint rally of both Clubs.=20
  The rally will be located near Bellingham, Wash., at the scenic Deming =
Log Show Grounds, ........... an easy approx. 8 mile drive off I-5 down =
the Mt. Baker Highway.=20

  This is an excellent opportunity for all who live in the northwest =
part of the States or the southwest part of Canada to get together for =
great times and trailer talk. (Others are invited as well!)=20

  The rally grounds are nicely wooded with many cedar trees and plenty =
of open grassy fields. There are around 35 water & power hookups =
available at $10.00 per night (First come first served.) and unlimited =
dry camping at $5.00 per night. There is a restroom building (but no =
showers) and an RV dump is available. There are a number of antique =
logging equipment displays on the grounds as well.=20

  There will be no rally fee this first year, .................. each =
will be on their own to cover their expenses. We plan on a pizza feast =
for one night with all interested contributing towards dinner. Another =
night could be a potluck if so desired. For this first year we don't =
have access to any of the covered buildings so all that have screen =
rooms or covers and folding tables please bring them with you.=20

  There will be a "car pool" trip to Mt. Baker ski area (& above =
providing the road is open.) Along the way we will be stopping at =
Everybody's Store. This is a small, old time country store that has gone =
"exotic" with many different and interesting articles from around the =
world. They are selling "on line" as well. Nooksack Falls will be =
another stop along the way. This is a very scenic falls and has a large =
old fashioned wooden water line that is above ground running through the =
trees near by. On our way back down the mountain we will stop for an =
afternoon ice cream treat in Glacier at Graham's Country Store. Yummie =
in the tummie!!=20

  Traveling down rural, country roads amongst picturesque dairy farms to =
beautiful Lynden, Wash., can be another car pool tour. This is a very =
charming "Dutch" town that has a number of antique & gift shops to =
browse through at your leisure.=20

  The area around the rally site has many different things to see and =
do. Tubing on the nearby Nooksack River or swimming in one of the local =
lakes is an option if one so desires. Or a visit to the nearby Nooksack =
Casino if one desires a "little action."=20

  Those that are interested in attending this first annual Majestic Mt. =
Baker rally please contact your VAC Region Reps. Patrick & Joanne Ewing, =
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, or call (360) 988-8407.=20


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Patrick,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanyou for taking the time to send me that =
info.&nbsp; I'm=20
going to see if I can convince my parents to attend with me with my=20
trailer.&nbsp; Do we need reservations?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Vanessa</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Patrick =
Ewing</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 08, =
2000 9:03=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Northwest =
Rally</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>The <B>VAC's Region 10</B> will be having it's very =
first=20
  annual <B>"Majestic Mt. Baker" rally </B>on <B>August 16th - 19th, =
2001.</B>=20
  This is Thursday through noon Sunday. Since a number of VAC members =
are Tin=20
  Can Tourist members as well this will be a joint rally of both Clubs.=20
  <P>The rally will be located near Bellingham, Wash., at the scenic =
Deming Log=20
  Show Grounds, ........... an easy approx. 8 mile drive off I-5 down =
the Mt.=20
  Baker Highway.=20
  <P>This is an excellent opportunity for all who live in the northwest =
part of=20
  the States or the southwest part of Canada to get together for great =
times and=20
  trailer talk. (Others are invited as well!)=20
  <P>The rally grounds are nicely wooded with many cedar trees and =
plenty of=20
  open grassy fields. There are around 35 water &amp; power hookups =
available at=20
  $10.00 per night (First come first served.) and unlimited dry camping =
at $5.00=20
  per night. There is a restroom building (but no showers) and an RV =
dump is=20
  available. There are a number of antique logging equipment displays on =
the=20
  grounds as well.=20
  <P>There will be no rally fee this first year, .................. each =
will be=20
  on their own to cover their expenses. We plan on a pizza feast for one =
night=20
  with all interested contributing towards dinner. Another night could =
be a=20
  potluck if so desired. For this first year we don't have access to any =
of the=20
  covered buildings so all that have screen rooms or covers and folding =
tables=20
  please bring them with you.=20
  <P>There will be a "car pool" trip to Mt. Baker ski area (&amp; above=20
  providing the road is open.) Along the way we will be stopping at =
Everybody's=20
  Store. This is a small, old time country store that has gone "exotic" =
with=20
  many different and interesting articles from around the world. They =
are=20
  selling "on line" as well. Nooksack Falls will be another stop along =
the way.=20
  This is a very scenic falls and has a large old fashioned wooden water =
line=20
  that is above ground running through the trees near by. On our way =
back down=20
  the mountain we will stop for an afternoon ice cream treat in Glacier =
at=20
  Graham's Country Store. Yummie in the tummie!!=20
  <P>Traveling down rural, country roads amongst picturesque dairy farms =
to=20
  beautiful Lynden, Wash., can be another car pool tour. This is a very =
charming=20
  "Dutch" town that has a number of antique &amp; gift shops to browse =
through=20
  at your leisure.=20
  <P>The area around the rally site has many different things to see and =
do.=20
  Tubing on the nearby Nooksack River or swimming in one of the local =
lakes is=20
  an option if one so desires. Or a visit to the nearby Nooksack Casino =
if one=20
  desires a "little action."=20
  <P>Those that are interested in attending this first annual Majestic =
Mt. Baker=20
  rally please contact your VAC Region Reps. Patrick &amp; Joanne Ewing, =

  &lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]&gt;, or call (360) 988-8407. =
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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