& while they are selling your solar to your neighbor they don't lose the
20-28% line lossage from the power plant that becomes additional profit
for them! They bill the neighbor like the loss is still there and give
you credit for your solar like the loss is going to happen.
On 09/08/2018 03:55 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
I choose to mount on the ground rather than the roof. If you have the
room you can get optimal placement and tilt angle.
Grid tie inverters are the way to go. One large one is much more cost
effective than the microinverters when calculated dollars per watt.
You can get inverters for about 15 cents per watt.
Mounting (that I designed out of unistrut) is about 15 cents per watt.
Panels can be had for 50 cents per watt.
10 kW is a pretty good size for most homes.
If you oversize it, Rocky Mountain Power will erase all your carryover
credit each spring thus selling your net production to your neighbors at
retail rate while not giving you any credit for it. So the target is
the $8.48 monthly bill (the minimum in Utah when on RMP) and no extra
power in your credit account each March.
Screw batts. Batts will double the cost of the system.
Nice generator with an automatic transfer switch and a propane tank ( if
you are a prepper) or natural gas if you are not worried about it.
*From:* Sterling Jacobson
*Sent:* Saturday, September 08, 2018 1:10 PM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
*Subject:* [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
What’s the current good method for adding a 10 panel system with battery
backup for 100A home system?
Seems like several solar panel kit options that use microinverters tied
to a main system which ties to the main breaker.
But not sure how to integrate battery system into that.
Seems like the current solar guys all want to just install the solar
system and send extra to the grid or offset, not backup battery.
And on top of that, what if I want a standard Generac 11kw generator
integrated into the mix?
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