Yeah. With a 1KV inverter, you can make a pretty substantial string, and
get away with fairly small gauge wire all the way up to the inverter.
Older inverters (and electric codes) only allowed up to 600 volts for
the DC part of the system. So there is now a sweet spot for systems that
run between 600 volts and 1000 volts. You avoid the cost of an
additional inverter if your entire system can run under 1000 volts, but
over 600 volts. You might be able to get over 20 panels on a single string.
bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>
On 9/9/2018 9:29 AM, Chuck McCown wrote:
Try to set the angle to the same as the latitude. So roughly 40
degrees of tilt angle.
Rather than a 3x3 array, figure out the area.
You get roughly 11 watts per square foot for amorphous panels.
Then take that wattage and try to find panels that will both fill the
area but also add up to your max inverter input voltage.
Many grid tie units are string inverters designed for series strings
that will go up to 1000 volts now.
So overvoltage will probably not be an issue.
-----Original Message----- From: Sterling Jacobson
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2018 10:59 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
Okay, forget oversize I guess.
I like the idea of non-roof mount.
What if I made a pergola type deck cover, but sort of mounted an array
of 3 x 3 panels tilted southward on top?
-----Original Message-----
From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chuck McCown
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2018 7:58 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
The only reason to oversize an array here in Utah if fed by Rocky
Mountain Power is if you made an effort to run electrical heating
loads in the winter to offset some natural gas usage. Nice to run the
AC as much as you want in the summer too.
I have wonder if I put a small inverter to back feed my home and
disconnect the mains during an outage, if the inverter would spoof the
grid tie inverters into coming on. I am pretty sure they would if the
inverter put out a good clean sine wave. But if the inverters got
satisfied that there was mains power and they kicked on, they would
overvoltage things pretty quickly, so I would have to have some kind
of load that would ballast the grid tie inverter a bit. Be fun to
experiment with.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Andrews
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2018 7:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
& while they are selling your solar to your neighbor they don't lose
the 20-28% line lossage from the power plant that becomes additional
profit for them! They bill the neighbor like the loss is still there
and give you credit for your solar like the loss is going to happen.
On 09/08/2018 03:55 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
I choose to mount on the ground rather than the roof. If you have the
room you can get optimal placement and tilt angle.
Grid tie inverters are the way to go. One large one is much more cost
effective than the microinverters when calculated dollars per watt.
You can get inverters for about 15 cents per watt.
Mounting (that I designed out of unistrut) is about 15 cents per watt.
Panels can be had for 50 cents per watt.
10 kW is a pretty good size for most homes.
If you oversize it, Rocky Mountain Power will erase all your carryover
credit each spring thus selling your net production to your neighbors at
retail rate while not giving you any credit for it. So the target
is the
$8.48 monthly bill (the minimum in Utah when on RMP) and no extra
power in your credit account each March.
Screw batts. Batts will double the cost of the system.
Nice generator with an automatic transfer switch and a propane tank (
if you are a prepper) or natural gas if you are not worried about it.
*From:* Sterling Jacobson
*Sent:* Saturday, September 08, 2018 1:10 PM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
*Subject:* [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
What’s the current good method for adding a 10 panel system with
battery backup for 100A home system?
Seems like several solar panel kit options that use microinverters
tied to a main system which ties to the main breaker.
But not sure how to integrate battery system into that.
Seems like the current solar guys all want to just install the solar
system and send extra to the grid or offset, not backup battery.
And on top of that, what if I want a standard Generac 11kw generator
integrated into the mix?
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