The panels I see the most often are in the 300 watt territory. Although I've seen some panels as high as 345 watts or so. The very highest efficiency panels commercially available are 20-21 % efficient. If you have a massive budget for a spacecraft, you "could" get maybe double that efficiency, but the $/watt are unbelievably high.

You won't improve the power output by splitting the light. It would actually decrease the power output because the mirror is not a perfect reflector.

The loss in efficiency is because the photon/electron hole ratio. In a perfect solar panel, every single photon would create an electron hole. Unfortunately, 4 out of 5 photons just reflect on out without creating an electron hole.


bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>

On 9/9/2018 11:28 PM, Steve Jones wrote:
whats the average size/watt for panels now?
what percentage of solar energy is converted to power, how much is "lost?
if you has a mirror set up to split the light off into two panels, what would the aggregate generation be? (say a 10x10 horizontal surface mirrored to redirect the light equally to two 10x10 vertical surfaces)

On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 1:00 PM Bill Prince <[email protected]> wrote:
Yeah. With a 1KV inverter, you can make a pretty substantial string, and
get away with fairly small gauge wire all the way up to the inverter.
Older inverters (and electric codes) only allowed up to 600 volts for
the DC part of the system. So there is now a sweet spot for systems that
run between 600 volts and 1000 volts. You avoid the cost of  an
additional inverter if your entire system can run under 1000 volts, but
over 600 volts. You might be able to get over 20 panels on a single string.


bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>

On 9/9/2018 9:29 AM, Chuck McCown wrote:
> Try to set the angle to the same as the latitude.  So roughly 40
> degrees of tilt angle.
>
> Rather than a 3x3 array, figure out the area.
> You get roughly 11 watts per square foot for amorphous panels.
>
> Then take that wattage and try to find panels that will both fill the
> area but also add up to your max inverter input voltage.
>
> Many grid tie units are string inverters designed for series strings
> that will go up to 1000 volts now.
> So overvoltage will probably not be an issue.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sterling Jacobson
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2018 10:59 PM
> To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
> Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
>
> Okay, forget oversize I guess.
>
> I like the idea of non-roof mount.
>
> What if I made a pergola type deck cover, but sort of mounted an array
> of 3 x 3 panels tilted southward on top?
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chuck McCown
> Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2018 7:58 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
>
> The only reason to oversize an array here in Utah if fed by Rocky
> Mountain Power is if you made an effort to run electrical heating
> loads in the winter to offset some natural gas usage.  Nice to run the
> AC as much as you want in the summer too.
>
> I have wonder if I put a small inverter to back feed my home and
> disconnect the mains during an outage, if the inverter would spoof the
> grid tie inverters into coming on.  I am pretty sure they would if the
> inverter put out a good clean sine wave.  But if the inverters got
> satisfied that there was mains power and they kicked on, they would
> overvoltage things pretty quickly, so I would have to have some kind
> of load that would ballast the grid tie inverter a bit.  Be fun to
> experiment with.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Andrews
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2018 7:45 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
>
> & while they are selling your solar to your neighbor they don't lose
> the 20-28% line lossage from the power plant that becomes additional
> profit for them!  They bill the neighbor like the loss is still there
> and give you credit for your solar like the loss is going to happen.
>
>
>
> On 09/08/2018 03:55 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
>> I choose to mount on the ground rather than the roof.  If you have the
>> room you can get optimal placement and tilt angle.
>> Grid tie inverters are the way to go.  One large one is much more cost
>> effective than the microinverters when calculated dollars per watt.
>> You can get inverters for about 15 cents per watt.
>> Mounting (that I designed out of unistrut) is about 15 cents per watt.
>> Panels can be had for 50 cents per watt.
>> 10 kW is a pretty good size for most homes.
>> If you oversize it, Rocky Mountain Power will erase all your carryover
>> credit each spring thus selling your net production to your neighbors at
>> retail rate while not giving you any credit for it.   So the target
>> is the
>> $8.48 monthly bill (the minimum in Utah when on RMP) and no extra
>> power in your credit account each March.
>> Screw batts.  Batts will double the cost of the system.
>> Nice generator with an automatic transfer switch and a propane tank (
>> if you are a prepper) or natural gas if you are not worried about it.
>> *From:* Sterling Jacobson
>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 08, 2018 1:10 PM
>> *To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
>> *Subject:* [AFMUG] OT Solar and battery backup
>>
>> What’s the current good method for adding a 10 panel system with
>> battery backup for 100A home system?
>>
>> Seems like several solar panel kit options that use microinverters
>> tied to a main system which ties to the main breaker.
>>
>> But not sure how to integrate battery system into that.
>>
>> Seems like the current solar guys all want to just install the solar
>> system and send extra to the grid or offset, not backup battery.
>>
>> And on top of that, what if I want a standard Generac 11kw generator
>> integrated into the mix?
>>
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