I find it's almost impossible to buy a non-smart TV nowadays. Most TVs 42"
or larger all have something built in but I still would only use a
dedicated device like Roku or fire tv for the best experience.

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 1:24 PM Cameron Crum <[email protected]> wrote:

> You can get non-smart TV's a lot cheaper and then get a Roku stick. I've
> got several sub $200 43 inch 4k TVs I got on the daily deals at frys. Most
> of them run off a cat-6 distributed network so they can all show the same
> thing at the same time. They are hanging in my DIY auto shop so people can
> all watch sports while working on their cars and such. I have the main roku
> running on the distribution and then individual rokus I hand out if they
> want to screen cast you tube videos or something to help them with their
> projects.
>
> On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 3:59 PM Mathew Howard <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> It's especially good when the router is sitting right next to the TV...
>>
>> But to be fair, the majority of cheap smart TVs and streaming devices
>> probably are wifi only.
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 7:58 AM Lewis Bergman <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> WiFi to the TV send like a waste. The TV never moves. Why not run a damn
>>> cable? I never have issues like this when the TV is hardwired.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Nov 2, 2019, 7:53 AM Ken Hohhof <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Does the hive mind have any suggestions for troubleshooting complaints
>>>> like “my LG smart TV can’t connect to Amazon Prime in the evening, it says
>>>> to contact my ISP”?  Not an insufficient speed error, a cannot connect to
>>>> the service error.  Yet the TV is connected to their WiFi, and its local IP
>>>> address can be pinged just fine from the router.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Let’s say their connection checks out totally OK, and even though the
>>>> only thing they do on the Internet is watch Amazon Prime (because it’s
>>>> essentially free), we get them to  check some other stuff like going to
>>>> Google from their phone or running a Netflix speedtest at fast.com and
>>>> that seems OK also.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If everything else seems OK, it seems like a pointless adventure of
>>>> reset your router, reset your TV, update the apps on your TV, try some
>>>> other streaming service like Netflix or Hulu, oh you don’t have
>>>> subscriptions.  Do you get sucked into that, or just say call the TV
>>>> manufacturer, call Amazon Prime?  They are just going to say call your
>>>> ISP.  I’m tempted to say there are dozens of streaming services, if Amazon
>>>> Prime isn’t working for you, switch to Netflix, Hulu, etc.  I know at one
>>>> time people would have trouble with their early Samsung smart TVs and I
>>>> would tell them to call a computer guy who would tell them their router and
>>>> TV were incompatible and sell them a new router.  So it’s not ALWAYS your
>>>> ISP’s fault.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> At least with a website that’s not working, you can do pings and
>>>> traceroutes to its IP address.  I have no idea how to check reachability,
>>>> packet loss, latency, etc. to Amazon Prime.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> And if people complain about rebuffering or video quality there is a
>>>> TCP connection we can torch and figure out where the traffic is going.  How
>>>> do you troubleshoot with a TV?
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