I was surprised by Vincent’s comment that liquid lime sulfur is a “normal” 
choice for post-infection in his area. My recollection
is that its use quickly went out of favor when ferbam and captan became 
available, mostly because of reduced photosynthetic
ability of LLS-damaged leaves.  Maybe the poor fruit set and lower-sugar apples 
are less apparent if those sprays are not repeated, compounding the damage.  
How are the Quebec growers avoiding LLS injury, Vincent?

Concerning Dave Rosenbergers suggestion that burning the leaves sufficiently to 
stop growth of the fungus might be beneficial,
I have wondered whether captan and oil could be used for that purpose, but I 
have never tried it.  If no one knows of any such
trial, I may give it a try this year. I would expect to loose the crop, but 
hopefully sufficient new foliage would develop to make flower buds for next 

David Kollas
Kollas Orchard; CT

On Apr 7, 2016, at 2:17 PM, David Doud <david_d...@me.com> wrote:

> LLS was out of favor here before I started spraying, but I do have some 
> references and dad used to talk about it - 
> from 1944 ‘Spray Chemicals’ - “The disadvantages are that liquid lime-sulfur 
> is very disagreeable to use owing to its causticity. Also this causticity is 
> blamed for subsequent foliage dwarfing, injury, loss of foliage, reduction in 
> rate of photosynthesis, and fruit russeting of apples…Young tender tissue 
> contains abundant oxygen, and these polysulfides immediately satisfy 
> themselves by taking the oxygen supply from the leaf tissue.  As a result, 
> normal leaf functions are temporarily disrupted and desiccation of marginal 
> cells, or "burning” takes place.  The leaves take on a “crinkled” appearance 
> and rarely develop normally.  This reaction also offers an explanation for 
> sulfur russeting during the pre-pink, pink, and petal fall stage of fruit 
> formation…”
> there is varietal variation in regard to susceptibility to LLS injury - 
> In your situation, I would be very conservative using LLS until the foliage 
> has a chance to dry and harden - at least one good sunny day of well above 
> freezing temps and no more freezing temperatures forecast  - but whadda I 
> know?
> I’m in about the same situation as you - sitting here at 1/2” green, a couple 
> of long wetting periods and 3”+ of rain at mostly cold temps but enough 50*+ 
> hours to cause concern - two nights, one 24*, one 23* earlier this week and 
> two more forecast for saturday morning and sunday morning - the orchard is 
> soaked and soggy and there is still pruning brush in the way some places - 
> not to mention high winds for the last 4 days - and 30mph gusts today - 
> I’m not going to worry too much - after we get out of this weather pattern 
> and I can get thru the plantings I’ll get a protectant on and scout carefully 
> after symptoms have time to develop - I’ve conserved chemicals like Syllit, 
> Topsin-M, Rally, and the like and feel like if I need to I can knock out an 
> infection if one develops - 
> Dad used to talk about the year they got scab started at green tip and the 
> frustrating season long fight afterwards - it was before I was born and I 
> don’t recall specifically which year he mentioned, but it was a big deal - I 
> think we have some better options today to deal with that situation - at 
> least I hope so - 
> Good luck - 
> David 
>> On Apr 7, 2016, at 12:56 PM, David Kollas <kol...@frontier.com> wrote:
>>      Does anyone have enough experience with liquid lime sulfur to comment 
>> on it as an emergency
>> choice for application before rains have stopped during the current long 
>> infection period?  It is listed as 
>> having 72-96 hours back-action in the New England Tree Fruits Management 
>> Guide.
>>      In my particular situation, Half-Inch Green stage tissues were exposed 
>> many hours during two of
>> the previous three nights to 18-20 degrees F, and are probably extra 
>> sensitive to captan penetration
>> and phytotoxicity.
>> David Kollas
>> Kollas Orchard
>> Connecticut 
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