The regulator does not come into play if you feed it directly with 5v. I
don't think the 3.3v pin is an allowable input, though... I remember that
the 5v pin can go either way like that, but I dunno about the 3.3v one.
Personally, if you're feeding it /regulated/ 5v -- desolder the regulator.
You're better off without it. It's a little four-pin SOT that looks like a
transistor with a tab pin... the specific part number is A1117.

Word to the wise on the $5-8 eBay USB soldering irons -- they work
remarkably well, but use ONLY with a power bank. There's a Scottish bloke
on YouTube calls himself "Big Clive Dot Com" -- he has a segment from 2016
or so on these irons, and he explains why I'm saying this far better than I
can explain it myself. Go watch the episode, it's here (~20min, and worth
every second) --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-8D5t6TJYU

...also...

If eBay is to be believed on part numbers here -- you should have an AUO
brand A070VW04 screen in that thing. If it's a stock screen, then according
to what I'm looking at, you don't need my display, you've already got one
that's 24bit TTL parallel.

Here's the datasheet I found --> http://www.taopanel.com/
auo/datasheet/A070VW04-V0.pdf

If youi WANT my display -- again, just pay shipping -- I can send it along.
I'll get model # and datasheet upon profession of interest. It'll give you
a few extra pixels, if you put it in, but you'll definitely need to cut
down that ginormous bezel to fit the thing -- it looks like they put a
seven inch display in a ten inch netbook, ha! (Insert inevitable
intelligence-comparison joke here.) I do remember that it was from a real
cheap pile-of-doodoo "eReader" tablet that my mother bought herself about
three months before Borders Books fell flat... Velocity Micro Cruz R101 is
the make and model. Usual horribly-cheap fare... it was probably outdated
when new. It never went above IIRC Android 2.something IIRC, had a 600MHz
or so VIA SoC that was probably overclocked and inevitably undercooled, and
was just all-around awful to use. It positively /reeked/ of cheap.

On Sun, Feb 11, 2018 at 5:15 PM, Pičugins Arsenijs <crim...@yandex.ru>
wrote:

> > Oh -- and for the keyboard -- look into the work done with custom
> keyboards
> > and a microcontroller called the "Teensy" -- the code should be
> compatible
> > with an Arduino Micro -- of which cheap clones can be had on eBay. To be
> > clear, you want the Arduino MICRO with the ATMEGA32U4 in it, and
> > specifically NOT the similar Arduino NANO with the ATMEGA328 in it. The
> > '32U4 part has on-chip USB so you can do USB-HID stuff with it.
>
> A Teensy could work, indeed. The issue is - the keyboard needs 24 (16+8)
> pins. Now that I think of it, we can use 32U4, it has 8 PCINT pins (that we
> can use for 8 rows) and there are 18 GPIOs remaining - enough to implement
> I2C (without the INT pin, though) or PS/2 - or, indeed, use USB.
>
> > I will warn
> > you that the cheap Arduino clone boards tend to use a particularly touchy
> > voltage regulator -- I've fried one of those boards that way, it's not
> > hard...
>
> Does the regulator come into play if we feed the ATMega32U4 from either 5V
> or 3.3V directly into VCC? I guess it doesn't.
>
> _______________________________________________
> arm-netbook mailing list arm-netbook@lists.phcomp.co.uk
> http://lists.phcomp.co.uk/mailman/listinfo/arm-netbook
> Send large attachments to arm-netb...@files.phcomp.co.uk
>
_______________________________________________
arm-netbook mailing list arm-netbook@lists.phcomp.co.uk
http://lists.phcomp.co.uk/mailman/listinfo/arm-netbook
Send large attachments to arm-netb...@files.phcomp.co.uk

Reply via email to