> On Feb 5, 2017, at 12:02 AM, 'woody stanford' via BeagleBoard 
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> OK, here is my best guess. I'll need to breadboard it out to get it working. 
> It basically glues some reference designs (off of the Internet...beware lol) 
> with some approaches that I've used for years together. I have to admit that 
> I'm a little shaky in the MOSFET area, but I know I can get a design like 
> this to work with some fiddling.
> 
> I would recommend to someone trying to get this to work to breadboard a 
> SINGLE CHANNEL of it, maybe using the PWM on the BBB PRU to output signal to 
> the optoisolator stage of the circuit. Or if you can find a solid 
> pre-programmed PWM PIC out there (and there are quite a few smaller operators 
> that sell ASIC-type preprogrammed PIC's with some operation or function on 
> them...for example, hobby servo control is a nice starter design to mess 
> with) to drive your isolated power electronics with some kind of 
> off-the-shelf motor.
> 
> *** Can you treat a propeller like a resistor? ***
> 
> An interesting idea I had was to treat my motor-propeller combination as a 
> true electrical component, looking at it from a power transfer perspective. 
> What I mean by this is there are equations out there that model perfectly a 
> propeller's force and a propeller's effective power transfer to the air it 
> pushes, that I suspect that you can equate the electrical equations involved 
> with the mechanical POWER ones for propellers (and the electromechanical 
> setup of the motors used to drive them). An idea. But it would allow you to 
> fully model a drone's power systems in a way I don't think heretofore done.
> 
> OK here we talk about how to power the 3 voltage zones. You'll notice that 
> I've chosen holistically to do it with dumb voltage regulators and this is a 
> product of kinesthetically "knowing" the current draw on each of the zones. 
> The BBB is probably a little more of a power hog than people give it credit 
> for, though I can feel the heat coming off it to be not much, so I'm sure it 
> can be driven off of VR. The PIC the same...very energy efficient so a 7405 
> will keep my workload low. Also added are some pulldown resistors (on the 
> "optional" network) because I'm afraid my MOSFET's are going to "float" (they 
> call it) and have the BBB to PIC issue worked out (you can float PIC lines 
> because they have built in pulldown resistors).
> 
> Again, untested. I don't use this term loosely. There is no guarantee that 
> this circuit will even work at this stage.
Well, it won’t work because the diode of the optocoupler is connected 
incorrectly.

Regards,
John
> 
>  
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bsKGGuckDZI/WJbcHZX_WKI/AAAAAAAAAF4/_fYnYOdEk-gN1hVCGdXQc7mPDSl549BTgCLcB/s1600/drone_mosfet2.png>
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 6:19:30 PM UTC-7, woody stanford wrote:
> I posted the remote control for this in Software, but I put a bunch of 
> hardware in it so I thought I'd post it here.
> 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!category-topic/beagleboard/software/evSIUcuWfUY
>  
> <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!category-topic/beagleboard/software/evSIUcuWfUY>
> 
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