Don't know if you have one but I like to use what is called a Wonder bar to pry
on molding. It's a bar about 2 inches wide and it spreads the force out
further when you pry on it. Once you get it away from the wall you can cut the
nails with wire cutters to get them out of the way. Like Ron said, tuck a
block of wood behind the molding to create some space from the wall and keep it
from flexing.
You can use any number of saws or "things" to cut with. That will depend more
of what you have on hand and your comfort level. If the molding is 2 inches or
less, I'd stick to hand power. Now would be the time to check out a Japanese
saw for example. Cutting from bottom up will keep you away from the ceiling
for the most part. Keep in mind there won't be a lot of stroke room and
powered saws will have parts getting in the way so it will be hard to finish
the cut.
If you don't have a Japanese saw, a keyhole saw might be a good choice. You
could even clamp a jig saw blade in a pair of vice grips and work that back and
forth. Necessity being the mother of invention and all.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan & Terrie Robbins
To: Blindhandyman
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 3:55 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tool selection
Looking for suggestions on what type of tool I need to
accomplish the below.
I have a 3 to 4 inch wide piece of molding in my garage
that runs the length of it (approximately 25 feet) that
separates the concrete block wall with the sheetrock
ceiling. I need to cut about 2 feet or so off of one end but
do not want to take the whole thing down and then put up
again. I think some type of a wheel cutting device on a
drill or something may work but looking for ideas
thanks
Al
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