The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 412 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: delrin control arm bushings for e36... Binding? "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic Re: "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic control arm bushing removal E36 M3 Lock Problems
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 18:35:05 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: delrin control arm bushings for e36... Binding? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You need these... http://www.TreehouseRacing.com Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi TreehouseRacing.com - Home of the Eyeball Arm M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Andy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 11:18 AM Subject: [UUC] delrin control arm bushings for e36... Binding? > Howdy, > > A question on Delrin front control arm bushings for an e36 (and it sounds > like e30's are similar?)... > > >From looking at the pictures, it would appear that the inner metal shell > of the bushing stays fixed to the control arm while the outer metal shell > stays fixed to the chassis mount. Wouldn't this mean that these bushings > would add stiction/binding to the front suspension? > > My initial thought was that a roller bearing setup would be much more > suited for this application. Or, along with a modified control arm, a > heim joint. > > What's the real story? > > Mark > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 19:55:36 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi folks, I'm getting a check engine light which reads as a #94 "EWS Input" fault from the Peake reader on my new-to-me 1997 318ic. My understanding of the EWS system is that it matches up the key to the ignition so that it starts only if the correct key is there, as a theft protection device. I can start the car every time, although the CE light has been lit for the last week (and as far as I know since I bought the car). The car has an aftermarket alarm in it that I'm sure is messing with the EWS. Is this something to worry about? If I can start the car, is there anything else this fault could mean? Is there anything short of replacing the EWS system and key that I should do? Thanks in advance, Mike Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:58:56 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> An EWS fault won't set a check engine light. Have the fault codes read with a more indepth scan tool to find out where the problem really lies. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I'm getting a check engine light which reads as a #94 "EWS Input" fault from > the Peake reader on my new-to-me 1997 318ic. My understanding of the EWS > system is that it matches up the key to the ignition so that it starts only > if the correct key is there, as a theft protection device. I can start the > car every time, although the CE light has been lit for the last week (and as > far as I know since I bought the car). The car has an aftermarket alarm in > it that I'm sure is messing with the EWS. > > Is this something to worry about? If I can start the car, is there anything > else this fault could mean? Is there anything short of replacing the EWS > system and key that I should do? > > Thanks in advance, > Mike Gilbert --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:13:54 -0400 From: "Ryan and Dee Dee Brenneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: control arm bushing removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mark Once the control arm is off place the "lollypop" down on the ground and pull up on the control arm with your feet on the edges of the "lollypop". Should be able to pull arm out of bushing. Then you use a press and various objects to press the old bushing out and put the new one in. Be sure to note direction of holes if offset bushings are used. Reinstall with dish soap. It will push on with a little effort in the reverse of how you got it off. With a space for the prong of the control arm to extend into. Ryan Brenneman ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:21:16 -0400 From: "Bill P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 M3 Lock Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today I noticed that the passenger door will not lock when you lock car from driver side (using the key). It will work if you use the key on passenger side, but it is very hard/rough to turn the key. The passenger side door handle also feels notchy and rough. Also noticed that you cannot turn the key at all in the trunk lock. The doors also seem to need an extra hard push to get them to close. The driver side door locking mechanism (handle and locking unit) has been replaced not to long ago. Any help is welcomed. Bill P ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(5 messages) **********
