The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 796 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E36> HVAC gremlins fixed
  Re: E30 fuel pressure?
  Tire Rotation
  Re: Tire Rotation
  Re: Tire Rotation

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Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 08:16:17 +0100
From: nick brearley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC gremlins fixed
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 23:14 03/09/05 -0700, Kevin wrote:

>We replaced the final stage resistor and this solved the problem. The heat
>sink on the new unit is considerably different then the , we suspect,
>original.

Kevin,

Any chance of providing the p/no for the resistor? My E36 325i shows the 
same symptoms.

Thanks.

Nick Brearley

 

 


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Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 09:43:27 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bmw list" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30 fuel pressure?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Try an extended test, tape the gauge to the windshield and drive.  The gauge 
should fluctuate up and down with intake vacuum.  Then note if there is a 
correlation between odd pressure and odd behaviour.

Gary Derian


>I just got done testing my fuel pressure in my 87' 325i and am now
> confused...
>
> Symptoms/Why was I doing this?:
>
> Car exhibits strange cold start habits. Some mornings it is fine,
> others, it cranks a good deal longer before starting. On long crank 
> mornings
> the car runs rough and with a very low idle (~400 RPM) for the first 30-60
> seconds. Manually running the pumps for a few seconds has always resulted 
> in
> a clean start.
>
> Car tends to bog and attempt to stall or simply have zero power on
> first roll out of the morning. This only occurs the first 5 minutes of
> running. If I let it idle for a while first, it doesn't do this.
>
> Overall idle is steady but rough. Although the tach never moves,
> there is a ~4 second cycle of smooth idle/rough idle.
>
> Warm restarts are anyone's guess. Fast enough, no problem. Wait too
> long and you have to use the accelerator to get a start. Wait even longer,
> no problem, unless it is cold, then see the first symptom.
>
> I do not get a check engine light, but the system will notice if I
> pull the O2 sensor. I did that to see if I lost the light bulb or
> something...
>
> What I did:
>
> I checked for vacuum leaks. No cracks that I can find. Spraying
> stuff (wd-40, etc) at suspected leaks never showed anything.
>
> Coolant temperature sensor checks good.
>
> Fuel pressure gets strange. I put tee with a gauge in line with the
> supply side of the rail (#6/firewall side). I used my handy "test relay" 
> to
> actuate the fuel pumps. I read 40 psi. When I shut the pumps down, it 
> falls
> to somewhere between 35 and 40 psi and holds (usually about 35psi, but it
> varries on each attempt). With the pumps running sucking on the hose to 
> the
> regulator doesn't seem to result in a decrease in pressure (but does taste
> bad). Clamping the return line will drive the pressure well over 50 psi.
> With the engine running, I get 35psi, but it jumps up to 40psi if I pull 
> the
> vacuum hose from the regulator. On shutdown, it holds at 35psi, but bled
> down to 30 psi in about an hour and 20 psi an hour after that. The 
> regulator
> itself has the correct Bosch part number (0 280 160 249) and is labeled as 
> a
> 3.0 Bar regulator.
>
> Mr. Bentley says that I should be getting 43.5 psi on the rail with the
> engine off. I get 40.
>
> Mr. Bentley says I should be getting 40-46 psi on the rail with the engine
> running. I get 35-40.
>
> Mr. Bentley says I should be able to get more than 46 psi by clamping the
> return line. I can.
>
> Wild Speculation:
>
> If I didn't know better, I would almost think that I have a
> mismarked 2.5 Bar regulator. The magic numbers for that would have been 39
> psi engine not running and 33-39 psi running. If my gauge was reading +1 
> psi
> from actual, the numbers are exact.
>
> It could be gauge error... even if that were the case and my first
> readings are corrected to "right" then the regulator still seems marginal
> with a range of 39-44 psi on a running engine.
>
> I am assuming that the rail is not supposed to loose 5 psi in an hour, so
> something is leaking.
>
> It almost seems like I have rich/lean symptoms all at the same time. The
> cold start strangeness sounds like not enough fuel as does the bogging 
> down
> until it warms up a bit.
>
> The rough idle sounds a little like "lean hunting" from back in my VW 
> days.
> Again, not enough fuel.
>
> Hmmm, I wonder if the "high NOx" emissions failure two years ago was
> related. I ended up changing the catalyst to make the state happy, but the
> mantra around here was "lean mix/vacuum leak", but I couldn't find any and
> neither could the state certified emissions shop.
>
> The warm restart issues sound more like too much fuel, but if an injector 
> or
> the regulator were leaking fuel into the intake manifold, that would 
> account
> for the symptoms...
>
> So, anyone else think that my FPR needs the lake test, or did I miss
> something.
>
> -- Joe, not confused anymore...
>
> --
> Joseph M. Krzeszewski             Network Operations
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 23:07:20 -0500
From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW" <[email protected]>
Subject: Tire Rotation
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

How often should you rotate your tires? I'm asking because someone mention 
to me doing it every month. I guess that is good to really keep them wearing 
smoothly.

  Celisa
'99 328is






------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 21:28:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Tire Rotation
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Either never, or every oil change (~5k miles).  

BMW recommends never, as the tires wear differently from
front to rear and with most modern, directional tires you
can't swap them side-to-side.  

If you change frequently they won't have time to wear in
one specific pattern too much.  Don't follow the generic
guidelines given for most cars.

If you don't rotate, you replace your rear tires
(generally) twice as often as the fronts.  A benefit is
that your newest tires are always going in the back, which
is safest in foul weather.

-tammer

--- Celisa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> How often should you rotate your tires? I'm asking
> because someone mention 
> to me doing it every month. I guess that is good to
> really keep them wearing 
> smoothly.
> 
>   Celisa
> '99 328is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder
> of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of
> the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 01:08:49 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Tire Rotation
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> If you don't rotate, you replace your rear tires
> (generally) twice as often as the fronts.  A benefit is
> that your newest tires are always going in the back, which
> is safest in foul weather.

But not particularly safe in "foul weather" as the fronts are 1/2 worn and
the rears are wearing down to the tread bars...

:-)

There is no perfect solution for all cases.

Later,

Rich


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