The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 551 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Fwd: Update: E36 M3 Mystery Noise <E34> BBS RC 17" on 95 540i 6-sp, Which Hub-Centric Rings? Re: <E34> BBS RC 17" on 95 540i 6-sp, Which Hub-Centric Rings? wtb: 17x8 ssr type-c Re: Fastest M3 on Fleabay - just needs an engine Paint removal Re: Paint removal <FS> 173 DME, Magnecor wires, head gasket kit
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 22:58:22 -0500 From: "Chris Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Fwd: Update: E36 M3 Mystery Noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since I will be replacing the rear control arms among other things, any advice on suspension bushings, etc to upgrade while I'm at it? Already got a brake pad suggestion, figured I would see what else I can do while I'm wrenching. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Chris Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Aug 22, 2007 2:17 PM Subject: [UUC] Update: E36 M3 Mystery Noise To: [email protected] First of all, thanks to everyone for your feedback on my mystery noise. Sadly among all of the opinions there was no one that picked the cause of the noise. I know this because I discovered the source of the noise in a rather interesting way. After checking out all of the suggestions offered and everything else I could think of I deemed it alright for me to go autocross in Grenada on 29 July, noise be damned. There were only 10 cars at the event so seat time was plentiful and I was steadily dialing in my new suspension and knocking the rust off of my driving ability. During the second set of runs for the day I began making the most progress on my time. On my next to last run everything clicked, I hit my apex target cones, had good speed coming out of the sweeper, kept the car under control through the large slalom and was approaching the tight small slalom with the finish line in sight and assured at least a second off my time if I could keep my wits about me. Funny how Murphy works. After two slalom cones the answer to my noise query ironically came to me in the form of a rather distinct louder noise followed by an unitentional 180 and the realization that I was now facing backwards and sitting slightly lower on the right side than I had been mere seconds ago. Examination of the right rear tire revealed some sidewall damage but not the cause of the flat. It was caused after the tire lost pressure and rolled over. (Roland will appreciate the failure analysis in this story). As I was staring at the tire my eyes moved down to the inside of the wheel. "Holy Sh**" followed my observation of a baseball sized jagged hole staring back at me from the inside of my wheel. You see new things everyday. After I was able to tear my eyes away from that I noticed that my brake caliper was in pieces along with damage to my new Ultimate pads, upper control arm, and rotor guard. At this point more that "Holy Sh**" was coming to mind. Anyway, the failure process goes like this: Brake caliper bolt is loose/crossthreaded causing loose brake caliper which causes mystery noise (no longer a mystery) Brake caliper bolt comes out (later found at start/finish line area) I apply brake approaching slalom, Remaining brake caliper bolt shears Brake caliper is slung into inner wheel surface (new pads and rotors effective, great!) Wheel breaks, tire goes flat, rotor guard is bent onto rotor, upper control arm is damaged, unexpected 180 ensues Cursing ensues followed by more cursing when realization sets in that somehow I must get back to Jackson, realization of impending monetary cost, more cursing Rigging of damaged brake caliper with scrap wood to prevent piston blowout and any additional unexpected vehicle movement ensues Limp home achieved with 3 good brakes and engine braking This however was a bittersweet ride home. I had peace of mind knowing that I no longer heard the mystery noise and now knew the answer to my question. However, more time and money would be required to get my ride back up to snuff. This was all I could think about on the ride home since the only distraction available was the suprisingly loud drone of the M3 minus the catback exhaust. Should have know it was going to be a bad day when I exited the interstate going to the event site and my exhaust hangar failed causing a noticeable entrance to the event, no mystery to that noise. Once I can get some pics I'll post a link of the carnage. That being said if there are any brake calipers, Axxis Ultimate pads, rotor guards, or upper and lower control arms up for sale please let me know. Chris 95 E36 M3 ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Chris Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Jul 27, 2007 7:53 AM Subject: [UUC] E36 M3 Mystery Noise To: [email protected] All, I own a 95 M3 that has a strange clunking/rattling noise coming from the passenger rear side of the car. It occurs when driving over uneven surfaces or bumps, but typically not at highway speed (assuming the highway is a little smoother) so in Jackson, MS with our roads it happens a lot. It is driving me crazy and if anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. I first thought it was the RSM, changed it, no difference. Then I thought it was the rear shock, changed it, although it was shot, no difference. I have taken everything out of the trunk, spare, CD player, tail light plastic covers, plastic panels, anything that could possibly make the noise from inside. The only thing I could possibly link it to would be that I changed my brake rotors and pads on all four corners sometime close to when the noise started. Like I said it has me pulling my hair out, any help would be appreciated. Thanks Chris 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 21:37:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMWUUCList <[email protected]> Subject: <E34> BBS RC 17" on 95 540i 6-sp, Which Hub-Centric Rings? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: For various reasons I've been driving my wife's 540i 6-sp (1995/E34) to work the last few days. I had the wheels balanced to get rid of massive front-end vibration. During balancing they found one hub-centric ring missing so they left one of the rear wheels w/o. They also left one wheel loose so I had to tighten that down. Vibration is less, but not gone. I took the wheels off and played with the hub-centric rings. Found that they fully recess into the wheel. That is, there is no pressure on them to touch the hub. Clearly, these are not the right pieces for this installation. They also are tight on the wheel on their OD, but loose on the hub on their ID. Pressed against the hub with the wheel off they do sort of tighten up against the conical area, but since the wheel wouldn't press them on to the cone I imagine this is useless. So, anyone know what size of rings I should order? The wheels are 17" BBS RCs, the car is a 1995 540i 6-sp with the sports package. Thanks! Regards, Neil Deshpande ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 11:56:02 -0400 From: "Ben Keyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMWUUCList <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E34> BBS RC 17" on 95 540i 6-sp, Which Hub-Centric Rings? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tire Rack has them. you want BBS part number 09.23.490, which they may refer to w/o the periods between numbers. they're something like $5 each. they're green anodized & are unique to the BBS PFS centering ring sustem. if the ones you have are not green they're for the larger E39 centerbore, and would fit relatively tightly to the ID of the wheel but will obviously be loose on the hub. you may need to put the new rings in the freezer to get them to fit, I had to on a couple which I put into some RC302s - 8½" x 17" et15 - which should be the wheels you have identical to the ones you have most likely. Ben On 8/23/07, Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Gruppe: > > For various reasons I've been driving my wife's 540i 6-sp (1995/E34) to work > the last few days. I had the wheels balanced to get rid of massive front-end > vibration. During balancing they found one hub-centric ring missing so they > left one of the rear wheels w/o. They also left one wheel loose so I had to > tighten that down. Vibration is less, but not gone. > > I took the wheels off and played with the hub-centric rings. Found that they > fully recess into the wheel. That is, there is no pressure on them to touch > the hub. Clearly, these are not the right pieces for this installation. > They also are tight on the wheel on their OD, but loose on the hub on their > ID. Pressed against the hub with the wheel off they do sort of tighten up > against the conical area, but since the wheel wouldn't press them on to the > cone I imagine this is useless. > > So, anyone know what size of rings I should order? The wheels are 17" BBS > RCs, the car is a 1995 540i 6-sp with the sports package. Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 06:16:13 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: wtb: 17x8 ssr type-c Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sorry for the cross post...the guy who bought my E36 M3 has cracked a rim, and is looking for a replacement... it's a 17x8 ssr competition (type-c) rim...anthracite with machined lip... if anyone has a spare rim lying around, that'd be great, or if someone can direct me to a source, it'd be greatly appreciated...looks like tire rack is out of that style/size... as always, thanx in advance... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 10:01:32 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Fastest M3 on Fleabay - just needs an engine Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yowza, I guess you'd better not be in the habit of resting your hand on the center tunnel. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:58:00 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Paint removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What's the best way to prep a part for paint. Specifically this is for my daughter's car which has a rear wing that needs repainting. The clear coat is shedding. Do I do a chemical peal or mechanical removal to a smooth surface or must all the layers be removed? Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:45:03 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Paint removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You need to remove everything questionable, which would be all the clear coat if that is peeling. Sanding is probably easiest for a wing. Gary Derian > > What's the best way to prep a part for paint. Specifically this is for my > daughter's car which has a rear wing that needs repainting. The clear coat > is shedding. > Do I do a chemical peal or mechanical removal to a smooth surface or must > all the layers be removed? > > Thanks, Kevin > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > it. Thank you. > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 18:25:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <FS> 173 DME, Magnecor wires, head gasket kit Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I'm getting rid of my E30 so my spares are for sale as well. All items are for an M20 2.5L "i" motor, you're responsible for finding out if it fits your frankenmotor or not. ;-) 173 DME w/Conforti chip - $250 Magnecor 7mm competition wires - $80 (these do work on eta engines) *you reuse your inductive pickup from #6 wire Elring head gasket kit - $85 All items plus shipping from 48197 I'm leaving for the 24hr Nelson Ledges race tomorrow evening so if I don't respond then give me a few days to catch up. Carlos Motor City Chapter 89 325i 98 M3 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
