That would have been me who broke the spades. Almost did it a second time, too!
Replacing the heating element is something that I pray I won't have to do soon... though I am a little jealous of the higher watt elements in the new US version. Hey, David, not to hijack the thread, but is the spacer for your pid because the hole is too large for the pid or because it was too long and in the way of the reservoir. oh... and your ferment box is AWESOME. I ferment everything, so this is another reason to do a pid. Hah! Good luck with the element and keep us updated. - -Barrett On Apr 2, 5:30 pm, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> wrote: > David, Yes those holes in the base look promising, but won't help you. > Also, trying to loosen the heater with the boiler connected will bend the > connecting tubing and foul up the position it is mounted at. Be carefull of > the soldered lugs where the heater wires attach. I remember one owner who > had the terminal spade break loose from the solder and come off when he was > attaching the heater wires. Mine were sturdy and gave me no problems, but > others' have. > Thanks for the PID link. I will check it out. > Dennis > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:40 PM > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > Thanks, > Yep its 2000 w elements, but I would be happier with smaller Brew > element. 2000w is great for the steam but overkill for the brew. There > are big holes (3inch) with plugs in them in the base of the machine > directly under the elements. I thought this meant i could get the > element out with the machine in place. However i could not get the > element screw loose!!! so maybe i need to take it out so i can try > harder. > > SOme info on my PID is on this > thread:http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1227835388/50#50 > > I used an AUBER PID and SSR. According to everything I have read a PID/ > SSR should be better for the element than the standard controller - So > hopefully my element blew for another reason? > > On Apr 3, 1:55 am, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> > wrote: > > Whoops, your machine is 240 v I think the heaters are more like 2000 watt. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> > > To: <[email protected]> > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:50 AM > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > > > Hello, > > > I have r&r both boilers in my machine. I ran some Faema descaling > > > solution > > > thru it that had some detergents which really screwed up my machine. The > > > pressurestat went bad; the water solenoid went bad; also the steam > > > boiler > > > heating element went bad.There are some horror stories that go along > > > with > > > that, including kitchen floods! (It is plumbed in w/o a solenoid valve > > > connected to the pump) > > > > You will have to disconnect all plumbing from the brew boiler,then there > > > is > > > only one screw on the bottom attaching it to the base. You might be > > > luckier > > > than me. I purchased special tools to remove the element. The boiler is > > > too > > > big to fit in a normal shop vise. I ended up using 18" channel locks, > > > and > > > a > > > huge 18" long combination wrench. The combo wrench is a 12 point 1- > > > 7/16". > > > The heater is metric, but that fits. Get a buddy to grip the boiler with > > > the > > > channel locks at the end, not the middle - the end plate of the boiler > > > is > > > only about 1/8" thk, as are the sides too. Then you can jump up and down > > > on > > > the wrench, loosening the heater, if you are lucky. (kidding) Mine was > > > glued > > > in with some sort of brown/black sealer, and it was an ANIMAL! > > > Of course, clean it all up & I used the yellow teflon tape (for gas) to > > > seal > > > it back up. > > > > Upon reinstalling the boiler, make sure it sits straight and not too > > > close > > > to the outer case of the machine. Also, be carefull you don't tweak the > > > plumbing when tightening things up. > > > > I have heard the new B111 has 1200 watt elements, rather than our 950 > > > watt. > > > > Please tell me some details about your pid install - I am interested . > > > Dennis > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> > > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 1:30 AM > > > Subject: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > > >> Hi Guys, > > >> My machine has stopped heating the brew water. I put a DMM on the > > >> brew element connectors and could see 240v when expected but no heat. > > >> So I guess that means the element has blown. > > >> I have only had the machine for 10 months but i don't think warranty > > >> will cover me because I put a PID on the machine about 3 months ago. > > >> Has any body done this at home? Any stories? I searched the forum but > > >> could find no posts on doing this. > > > >> Advice would be greatly appreciated. > > > >> Thanks > > > >> DAvid --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
