And yes, the spacer is because the PID is about 15mm too long as well
as requireing a smaller cutout.

On Apr 3, 8:05 pm, sink cut <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the thums up on the ferment box... i use it more than
> anything on a spare frige - it runs in cooling mode and can hold my
> soudoughs nicely in the freezer at 10c. You can't beat temperature
> control in anything you do!
> I have ordered a new element and will spend the weekend tryong to get
> the old one out.
>
> Thanks
>
> David
>
> On Apr 3, 9:03 am, bobvilax2000 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > That would have been me who broke the spades. Almost did it a second
> > time, too!
>
> > Replacing the heating element is something that I pray I won't have to
> > do soon... though I am a little jealous of the higher watt elements in
> > the new US version.
>
> > Hey, David, not to hijack the thread, but is the spacer for your pid
> > because the hole is too large for the pid or because it was too long
> > and in the way of the reservoir. oh... and your ferment box is
> > AWESOME. I ferment everything, so this is another reason to do a pid.
> > Hah!
>
> > Good luck with the element and keep us updated.
>
> > - -Barrett
>
> > On Apr 2, 5:30 pm, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> > > David,  Yes those holes in the base look promising, but won't help you.
> > > Also, trying to loosen the heater with the boiler connected will bend the
> > > connecting tubing and foul up the position it is mounted at.  Be carefull 
> > > of
> > > the soldered lugs where the heater wires attach. I remember one owner who
> > > had the terminal spade break loose from the solder and come off when  he 
> > > was
> > > attaching the heater wires. Mine were sturdy and gave me no problems, but
> > > others' have.
> > > Thanks for the PID link. I will check it out.
> > > Dennis
>
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]>
> > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:40 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Yep its 2000 w elements, but I would be happier with smaller Brew
> > > element. 2000w is great for the steam but overkill for the brew. There
> > > are big holes (3inch) with plugs in them in the base of the machine
> > > directly under the elements. I thought this meant i could get the
> > > element out with the machine in place. However i could not get the
> > > element screw loose!!! so maybe i need to take it out so i can try
> > > harder.
>
> > > SOme info on my PID is on this 
> > > thread:http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1227835388/50#50
>
> > > I used an AUBER PID and SSR. According to everything I have read a PID/
> > > SSR should be better for the element than the standard controller - So
> > > hopefully my element blew for another reason?
>
> > > On Apr 3, 1:55 am, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
> > > > Whoops, your machine is 240 v I think the heaters are more like 2000 
> > > > watt.
>
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:50 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element
>
> > > > > Hello,
> > > > > I have r&r both boilers in my machine. I ran some Faema descaling
> > > > > solution
> > > > > thru it that had some detergents which really screwed up my machine. 
> > > > > The
> > > > > pressurestat went bad; the water solenoid went bad; also the steam
> > > > > boiler
> > > > > heating element went bad.There are some horror stories that go along
> > > > > with
> > > > > that, including kitchen floods! (It is plumbed in w/o a solenoid valve
> > > > > connected to the pump)
>
> > > > > You will have to disconnect all plumbing from the brew boiler,then 
> > > > > there
> > > > > is
> > > > > only one screw on the bottom attaching it to the base. You might be
> > > > > luckier
> > > > > than me. I purchased special tools to remove the element. The boiler 
> > > > > is
> > > > > too
> > > > > big to fit in a normal shop vise. I ended up using 18" channel locks,
> > > > > and
> > > > > a
> > > > > huge 18" long combination wrench. The combo wrench is a 12 point 1-
> > > > > 7/16".
> > > > > The heater is metric, but that fits. Get a buddy to grip the boiler 
> > > > > with
> > > > > the
> > > > > channel locks at the end, not the middle - the end plate of the boiler
> > > > > is
> > > > > only about 1/8" thk, as are the sides too. Then you can jump up and 
> > > > > down
> > > > > on
> > > > > the wrench, loosening the heater, if you are lucky. (kidding) Mine was
> > > > > glued
> > > > > in with some sort of brown/black sealer, and it was an ANIMAL!
> > > > > Of course, clean it all up & I used the yellow teflon tape (for gas) 
> > > > > to
> > > > > seal
> > > > > it back up.
>
> > > > > Upon reinstalling the boiler, make sure it sits straight and not too
> > > > > close
> > > > > to the outer case of the machine. Also, be carefull you don't tweak 
> > > > > the
> > > > > plumbing when tightening things up.
>
> > > > > I have heard the new B111 has 1200 watt elements, rather than our 950
> > > > > watt.
>
> > > > > Please tell me some details about your pid install - I am interested .
> > > > > Dennis
>
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]>
> > > > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 1:30 AM
> > > > > Subject: Replacing Brew Boiler Element
>
> > > > >> Hi Guys,
> > > > >> My machine has stopped heating the brew water. I put a DMM on the
> > > > >> brew element connectors and could see 240v when expected but no heat.
> > > > >> So I guess that means the element has blown.
> > > > >> I have only had the machine for 10 months but i don't think warranty
> > > > >> will cover me because I put a PID on the machine about 3 months ago.
> > > > >> Has any body done this at home? Any stories? I searched the forum but
> > > > >> could find no posts on doing this.
>
> > > > >> Advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> > > > >> Thanks
>
> > > > >> DAvid
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