Sorry what does SSR stand for? On 4/14/09, sink cut <[email protected]> wrote: > > All Done and working. :) > Unfortunatly I miss diagnosed the problem and only found out once I > replaced the element - at least I have a spare element now. The real > problem was my SSR. It tricked me because when I originally tested > the SSR without the element plugged in it worked fine. When the new > element was plugged in and the system still did not work I tested the > SSR with the element in place - this showed me it was not working. > > To replace the element, I removed the brew boiler and sent it to work > with my friend who is a mechanic.he needed to use a rattle gun to get > it out. > > Replacing the SSR was too easy. - I wish i did that first. I don't > really care now because i have espresso again.:) > > > > On Apr 3, 8:37 pm, sink cut <[email protected]> wrote: >> And yes, the spacer is because the PID is about 15mm too long as well >> as requireing a smaller cutout. >> >> On Apr 3, 8:05 pm, sink cut <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> > Thanks for the thums up on the ferment box... i use it more than >> > anything on a spare frige - it runs in cooling mode and can hold my >> > soudoughs nicely in the freezer at 10c. You can't beat temperature >> > control in anything you do! >> > I have ordered a new element and will spend the weekend tryong to get >> > the old one out. >> >> > Thanks >> >> > David >> >> > On Apr 3, 9:03 am, bobvilax2000 <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> > > That would have been me who broke the spades. Almost did it a second >> > > time, too! >> >> > > Replacing the heating element is something that I pray I won't have to >> > > do soon... though I am a little jealous of the higher watt elements in >> > > the new US version. >> >> > > Hey, David, not to hijack the thread, but is the spacer for your pid >> > > because the hole is too large for the pid or because it was too long >> > > and in the way of the reservoir. oh... and your ferment box is >> > > AWESOME. I ferment everything, so this is another reason to do a pid. >> > > Hah! >> >> > > Good luck with the element and keep us updated. >> >> > > - -Barrett >> >> > > On Apr 2, 5:30 pm, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> >> > > wrote: >> >> > > > David, Yes those holes in the base look promising, but won't help >> > > > you. >> > > > Also, trying to loosen the heater with the boiler connected will >> > > > bend the >> > > > connecting tubing and foul up the position it is mounted at. Be >> > > > carefull of >> > > > the soldered lugs where the heater wires attach. I remember one >> > > > owner who >> > > > had the terminal spade break loose from the solder and come off when >> > > > he was >> > > > attaching the heater wires. Mine were sturdy and gave me no >> > > > problems, but >> > > > others' have. >> > > > Thanks for the PID link. I will check it out. >> > > > Dennis >> >> > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> > > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> >> > > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> >> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:40 PM >> > > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element >> >> > > > Thanks, >> > > > Yep its 2000 w elements, but I would be happier with smaller Brew >> > > > element. 2000w is great for the steam but overkill for the brew. >> > > > There >> > > > are big holes (3inch) with plugs in them in the base of the machine >> > > > directly under the elements. I thought this meant i could get the >> > > > element out with the machine in place. However i could not get the >> > > > element screw loose!!! so maybe i need to take it out so i can try >> > > > harder. >> >> > > > SOme info on my PID is on this >> > > > thread:http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1227835388/50#50 >> >> > > > I used an AUBER PID and SSR. According to everything I have read a >> > > > PID/ >> > > > SSR should be better for the element than the standard controller - >> > > > So >> > > > hopefully my element blew for another reason? >> >> > > > On Apr 3, 1:55 am, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> >> > > > wrote: >> > > > > Whoops, your machine is 240 v I think the heaters are more like >> > > > > 2000 watt. >> >> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> > > > > From: "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> >> > > > > To: <[email protected]> >> > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:50 AM >> > > > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element >> >> > > > > > Hello, >> > > > > > I have r&r both boilers in my machine. I ran some Faema >> > > > > > descaling >> > > > > > solution >> > > > > > thru it that had some detergents which really screwed up my >> > > > > > machine. The >> > > > > > pressurestat went bad; the water solenoid went bad; also the >> > > > > > steam >> > > > > > boiler >> > > > > > heating element went bad.There are some horror stories that go >> > > > > > along >> > > > > > with >> > > > > > that, including kitchen floods! (It is plumbed in w/o a solenoid >> > > > > > valve >> > > > > > connected to the pump) >> >> > > > > > You will have to disconnect all plumbing from the brew >> > > > > > boiler,then there >> > > > > > is >> > > > > > only one screw on the bottom attaching it to the base. You might >> > > > > > be >> > > > > > luckier >> > > > > > than me. I purchased special tools to remove the element. The >> > > > > > boiler is >> > > > > > too >> > > > > > big to fit in a normal shop vise. I ended up using 18" channel >> > > > > > locks, >> > > > > > and >> > > > > > a >> > > > > > huge 18" long combination wrench. The combo wrench is a 12 point >> > > > > > 1- >> > > > > > 7/16". >> > > > > > The heater is metric, but that fits. Get a buddy to grip the >> > > > > > boiler with >> > > > > > the >> > > > > > channel locks at the end, not the middle - the end plate of the >> > > > > > boiler >> > > > > > is >> > > > > > only about 1/8" thk, as are the sides too. Then you can jump up >> > > > > > and down >> > > > > > on >> > > > > > the wrench, loosening the heater, if you are lucky. (kidding) >> > > > > > Mine was >> > > > > > glued >> > > > > > in with some sort of brown/black sealer, and it was an ANIMAL! >> > > > > > Of course, clean it all up & I used the yellow teflon tape (for >> > > > > > gas) to >> > > > > > seal >> > > > > > it back up. >> >> > > > > > Upon reinstalling the boiler, make sure it sits straight and not >> > > > > > too >> > > > > > close >> > > > > > to the outer case of the machine. Also, be carefull you don't >> > > > > > tweak the >> > > > > > plumbing when tightening things up. >> >> > > > > > I have heard the new B111 has 1200 watt elements, rather than >> > > > > > our 950 >> > > > > > watt. >> >> > > > > > Please tell me some details about your pid install - I am >> > > > > > interested . >> > > > > > Dennis >> >> > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> > > > > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> >> > > > > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> >> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 1:30 AM >> > > > > > Subject: Replacing Brew Boiler Element >> >> > > > > >> Hi Guys, >> > > > > >> My machine has stopped heating the brew water. I put a DMM on >> > > > > >> the >> > > > > >> brew element connectors and could see 240v when expected but no >> > > > > >> heat. >> > > > > >> So I guess that means the element has blown. >> > > > > >> I have only had the machine for 10 months but i don't think >> > > > > >> warranty >> > > > > >> will cover me because I put a PID on the machine about 3 months >> > > > > >> ago. >> > > > > >> Has any body done this at home? Any stories? I searched the >> > > > > >> forum but >> > > > > >> could find no posts on doing this. >> >> > > > > >> Advice would be greatly appreciated. >> >> > > > > >> Thanks >> >> > > > > >> DAvid > > >
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