Thanks for the thums up on the ferment box... i use it more than anything on a spare frige - it runs in cooling mode and can hold my soudoughs nicely in the freezer at 10c. You can't beat temperature control in anything you do! I have ordered a new element and will spend the weekend tryong to get the old one out.
Thanks David On Apr 3, 9:03 am, bobvilax2000 <[email protected]> wrote: > That would have been me who broke the spades. Almost did it a second > time, too! > > Replacing the heating element is something that I pray I won't have to > do soon... though I am a little jealous of the higher watt elements in > the new US version. > > Hey, David, not to hijack the thread, but is the spacer for your pid > because the hole is too large for the pid or because it was too long > and in the way of the reservoir. oh... and your ferment box is > AWESOME. I ferment everything, so this is another reason to do a pid. > Hah! > > Good luck with the element and keep us updated. > > - -Barrett > > On Apr 2, 5:30 pm, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > David, Yes those holes in the base look promising, but won't help you. > > Also, trying to loosen the heater with the boiler connected will bend the > > connecting tubing and foul up the position it is mounted at. Be carefull of > > the soldered lugs where the heater wires attach. I remember one owner who > > had the terminal spade break loose from the solder and come off when he was > > attaching the heater wires. Mine were sturdy and gave me no problems, but > > others' have. > > Thanks for the PID link. I will check it out. > > Dennis > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:40 PM > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > > Thanks, > > Yep its 2000 w elements, but I would be happier with smaller Brew > > element. 2000w is great for the steam but overkill for the brew. There > > are big holes (3inch) with plugs in them in the base of the machine > > directly under the elements. I thought this meant i could get the > > element out with the machine in place. However i could not get the > > element screw loose!!! so maybe i need to take it out so i can try > > harder. > > > SOme info on my PID is on this > > thread:http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1227835388/50#50 > > > I used an AUBER PID and SSR. According to everything I have read a PID/ > > SSR should be better for the element than the standard controller - So > > hopefully my element blew for another reason? > > > On Apr 3, 1:55 am, "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > Whoops, your machine is 240 v I think the heaters are more like 2000 watt. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]> > > > To: <[email protected]> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:50 AM > > > Subject: Re: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > > > > Hello, > > > > I have r&r both boilers in my machine. I ran some Faema descaling > > > > solution > > > > thru it that had some detergents which really screwed up my machine. The > > > > pressurestat went bad; the water solenoid went bad; also the steam > > > > boiler > > > > heating element went bad.There are some horror stories that go along > > > > with > > > > that, including kitchen floods! (It is plumbed in w/o a solenoid valve > > > > connected to the pump) > > > > > You will have to disconnect all plumbing from the brew boiler,then there > > > > is > > > > only one screw on the bottom attaching it to the base. You might be > > > > luckier > > > > than me. I purchased special tools to remove the element. The boiler is > > > > too > > > > big to fit in a normal shop vise. I ended up using 18" channel locks, > > > > and > > > > a > > > > huge 18" long combination wrench. The combo wrench is a 12 point 1- > > > > 7/16". > > > > The heater is metric, but that fits. Get a buddy to grip the boiler with > > > > the > > > > channel locks at the end, not the middle - the end plate of the boiler > > > > is > > > > only about 1/8" thk, as are the sides too. Then you can jump up and down > > > > on > > > > the wrench, loosening the heater, if you are lucky. (kidding) Mine was > > > > glued > > > > in with some sort of brown/black sealer, and it was an ANIMAL! > > > > Of course, clean it all up & I used the yellow teflon tape (for gas) to > > > > seal > > > > it back up. > > > > > Upon reinstalling the boiler, make sure it sits straight and not too > > > > close > > > > to the outer case of the machine. Also, be carefull you don't tweak the > > > > plumbing when tightening things up. > > > > > I have heard the new B111 has 1200 watt elements, rather than our 950 > > > > watt. > > > > > Please tell me some details about your pid install - I am interested . > > > > Dennis > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "sink cut" <[email protected]> > > > > To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 1:30 AM > > > > Subject: Replacing Brew Boiler Element > > > > >> Hi Guys, > > > >> My machine has stopped heating the brew water. I put a DMM on the > > > >> brew element connectors and could see 240v when expected but no heat. > > > >> So I guess that means the element has blown. > > > >> I have only had the machine for 10 months but i don't think warranty > > > >> will cover me because I put a PID on the machine about 3 months ago. > > > >> Has any body done this at home? Any stories? I searched the forum but > > > >> could find no posts on doing this. > > > > >> Advice would be greatly appreciated. > > > > >> Thanks > > > > >> DAvid --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
