I've got a spare temp probe. Contact me directly and I will ship it to you.
R combs On Jan 1, 9:52 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote: > I think the white stuff is some kind of thermal compound like that > listed at espressoparts.com. > > On Jan 1, 10:20 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I'm sure you're right. I was able to pull out the temp sensor with > > brew boiler cold. > > > Also when jiggling the wire the error code had gone away and displayed > > the temperature so I put it back together. Unfortunately it has now > > reverted to the error code. I may also need to get a multi meter and > > look for a short. > > > One thing I forgot to mention in the original post was that yesterday > > when I turned on the machine the temperature read negative numbers and > > reading jumped back and forth. I left the machine on and it started > > to register the proper temperatures after a bit. > > > JetPilot thanks for your help. > > > On Jan 1, 12:06 pm, Jet Pilot <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > You are likely getting "luke warm" water because the brew boiler water > > > is pre-heated in the steam boiler on its way to the brew boiler. > > > > I'm betting that your temp sensor is bad. The temp sensor is a > > > thermocouple that simply inserts into the thermocouple well on the > > > brew boiler, so no need to get a metric hex wrench and remove the > > > well. There is some kind of "goo" (pipe threa sealing compound, I > > > think) to help keep it seated and in good thermal contact with the > > > sides of the well. When the brew boiler is at full temp, I found that > > > you could pull the thermocouple out of the well. When the boiler was > > > cold, the thermocouple was firmly seated and even a firm tug would not > > > make it budge. > > > > My 3-year old Brewtus II had a similar issue. I found that the wiring > > > on the thermocouple, where it goes into the thermocouple well, had > > > deteriorated and disintegrated so badly that the wires were exposed > > > and had likely shorted out. If you have access to a multimeter you > > > can disonnect the thermocouple at the "box" and test for continuity > > > and shorting of the thermocouple. First connect to each end of the > > > leads and check for continuity (i.e., an unbroken circuit within the > > > thermocouple). Then you can test for a short by connecting to one > > > lead of the thermocoupld and someplace on the brew boiler, and then > > > the end of the other lead and the brew boiler. If you can complete a > > > "circuit" that way, you have a short. > > > > The thermocouple on my Brewtus II had deteriorated so badly that it > > > did not come out cleanly. I used a drill bit that just fit into the > > > well and CAREFULLY hand drilled out the remains of the old > > > thermocouple head that did not come out when I pulled the wire out. > > > > If your thermocouple is the issue, then you have two options: 1) > > > replace the thermocouple or 2) replace the whole "box". If you have > > > the AKO-13120/01PID Thermostat "box" like I do, WLL does not carry > > > the AKO-14901 NTC thermocouple, which is require for the AKO-13120/01 > > > to work properly. The only vendor I could find on this continent that > > > had the part is Furneco International (www.furneco.com) in Canada. > > > They sell it for $14.50 plus shipping. I found a few in Europe > > > (moslty Spain), but they did not ship to the US or you had to purchase > > > the thermocouple in bulk.- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en.
