My probes were $15 each, shipping should've cost $15 for second day int'l fedex but it was sent next day for $80.
WLL just posted the Pid upgrade. If I expected I was in for $100 to fix the existing setup, I'd have gone the upgrade route. The fix was easy, the toughest part was loosening the screws for the probe at the PID. Needed to use a pair of pliers on the jewellers screwdriver to get enough leverage. Also the hex screws are metric, bought a $10 metric hex set at Home Depot. On Jan 16, 9:30 pm, HERMAN <[email protected]> wrote: > believe it or not i''m getting the same error once my machine heats up. the > water in mine is boiling when it comes out of the group. i ordered the probe > from furneco and should have it next week.it was 84 dollars i think plus > freight. just over 100 bucks. just saw your post. has anybody done the pid > upgrade instead of replacing the probe? i considered it but wll was out of the > pid kit. anyway good luck with your repair. > herman > > ________________________________ > From: TWG <[email protected]> > To: Brewtus <[email protected]> > Sent: Sun, January 16, 2011 9:02:16 PM > Subject: Re: E1 on power up > > Thanks for the offer. > > I had already ordered two probes from Canada. I replaced the original > probe this afternoon and it appears to have fixed the problem. Had to > source the goo from espressoparts separately. > > Only compliant I have is with shipping, I requested second day fedex > and it was shipped next day. > > I should've chose Canadian post. > > On Jan 13, 11:51 am, Orianm42 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > I've got a spare temp probe. Contact me directly and I will ship it > > to you. > > > R combs > > On Jan 1, 9:52 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I think the white stuff is some kind of thermal compound like that > > > listed at espressoparts.com. > > > > On Jan 1, 10:20 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I'm sure you're right. I was able to pull out the temp sensor with > > > > brew boiler cold. > > > > > Also when jiggling the wire the error code had gone away and displayed > > > > the temperature so I put it back together. Unfortunately it has now > > > > reverted to the error code. I may also need to get a multi meter and > > > > look for a short. > > > > > One thing I forgot to mention in the original post was that yesterday > > > > when I turned on the machine the temperature read negative numbers and > > > > reading jumped back and forth. I left the machine on and it started > > > > to register the proper temperatures after a bit. > > > > > JetPilot thanks for your help. > > > > > On Jan 1, 12:06 pm, Jet Pilot <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > You are likely getting "luke warm" water because the brew boiler water > > > > > is pre-heated in the steam boiler on its way to the brew boiler. > > > > > > I'm betting that your temp sensor is bad. The temp sensor is a > > > > > thermocouple that simply inserts into the thermocouple well on the > > > > > brew boiler, so no need to get a metric hex wrench and remove the > > > > > well. There is some kind of "goo" (pipe threa sealing compound, I > > > > > think) to help keep it seated and in good thermal contact with the > > > > > sides of the well. When the brew boiler is at full temp, I found that > > > > > you could pull the thermocouple out of the well. When the boiler was > > > > > cold, the thermocouple was firmly seated and even a firm tug would not > > > > > make it budge. > > > > > > My 3-year old Brewtus II had a similar issue. I found that the wiring > > > > > on the thermocouple, where it goes into the thermocouple well, had > > > > > deteriorated and disintegrated so badly that the wires were exposed > > > > > and had likely shorted out. If you have access to a multimeter you > > > > > can disonnect the thermocouple at the "box" and test for continuity > > > > > and shorting of the thermocouple. First connect to each end of the > > > > > leads and check for continuity (i.e., an unbroken circuit within the > > > > > thermocouple). Then you can test for a short by connecting to one > > > > > lead of the thermocoupld and someplace on the brew boiler, and then > > > > > the end of the other lead and the brew boiler. If you can complete a > > > > > "circuit" that way, you have a short. > > > > > > The thermocouple on my Brewtus II had deteriorated so badly that it > > > > > did not come out cleanly. I used a drill bit that just fit into the > > > > > well and CAREFULLY hand drilled out the remains of the old > > > > > thermocouple head that did not come out when I pulled the wire out. > > > > > > If your thermocouple is the issue, then you have two options: 1) > > > > > replace the thermocouple or 2) replace the whole "box". If you have > > > > > the AKO-13120/01PID Thermostat "box" like I do, WLL does not carry > > > > > the AKO-14901 NTC thermocouple, which is require for the AKO-13120/01 > > > > > to work properly. The only vendor I could find on this continent that > > > > > had the part is Furneco International (www.furneco.com) in Canada. > > > > > They sell it for $14.50 plus shipping. I found a few in Europe > > > > > (moslty Spain), but they did not ship to the US or you had to purchase > > > > > the thermocouple in bulk.- Hide quoted text - > > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. 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