Thanks for the offer.

I had already ordered two probes from Canada.  I replaced the original
probe this afternoon and it appears to have fixed the problem.  Had to
source the goo from espressoparts separately.

Only compliant I have is with shipping, I requested second day fedex
and it was shipped next day.

I should've chose Canadian post.



On Jan 13, 11:51 am, Orianm42 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've got a spare temp probe.  Contact me directly and I will ship it
> to you.
>
> R combs
> On Jan 1, 9:52 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I think the white stuff is some kind of thermal compound like that
> > listed at espressoparts.com.
>
> > On Jan 1, 10:20 pm, TWG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I'm sure you're right.  I was able to pull out the temp sensor with
> > > brew boiler cold.
>
> > > Also when jiggling the wire the error code had gone away and displayed
> > > the temperature so I put it back together.  Unfortunately it has now
> > > reverted to the error code.  I may also need to get a multi meter and
> > > look for a short.
>
> > > One thing I forgot to mention in the original post was that yesterday
> > > when I turned on the machine the temperature read negative numbers and
> > > reading jumped back and forth.  I left the machine on and it started
> > > to register the proper temperatures after a bit.
>
> > > JetPilot thanks for your help.
>
> > > On Jan 1, 12:06 pm, Jet Pilot <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > You are likely getting "luke warm" water because the brew boiler water
> > > > is pre-heated in the steam boiler on its way to the brew boiler.
>
> > > > I'm betting that your temp sensor is bad.  The temp sensor is a
> > > > thermocouple that simply inserts into the thermocouple well on the
> > > > brew boiler, so no need to get a metric hex wrench and remove the
> > > > well.  There is some kind of "goo" (pipe threa sealing compound, I
> > > > think) to help keep it seated and in good thermal contact with the
> > > > sides of the well.  When the brew boiler is at full temp, I found that
> > > > you could pull the thermocouple out of the well.  When the boiler was
> > > > cold, the thermocouple was firmly seated and even a firm tug would not
> > > > make it budge.
>
> > > > My 3-year old Brewtus II had a similar issue.  I found that the wiring
> > > > on the thermocouple, where it goes into the thermocouple well, had
> > > > deteriorated and disintegrated so badly that the wires were exposed
> > > > and had likely shorted out.  If you have access to a multimeter you
> > > > can disonnect the thermocouple at the "box" and test for continuity
> > > > and shorting of the thermocouple.  First connect to each end of the
> > > > leads and check for continuity (i.e., an unbroken circuit within the
> > > > thermocouple).  Then you can test for a short by connecting to one
> > > > lead of the thermocoupld and someplace on the brew boiler, and then
> > > > the end of the other lead and the brew boiler.  If you can complete a
> > > > "circuit" that way, you have a short.
>
> > > > The thermocouple on my Brewtus II had deteriorated so badly that it
> > > > did not come out cleanly. I used a drill bit that just fit into the
> > > > well and CAREFULLY hand drilled out the remains of the old
> > > > thermocouple head that did not come out when I pulled the wire out.
>
> > > > If your thermocouple is the issue, then you have two options: 1)
> > > > replace the thermocouple or 2) replace the whole "box".  If you have
> > > > the AKO-13120/01PID Thermostat "box" like I do, WLL does not carry
> > > > the AKO-14901 NTC thermocouple, which is require for the AKO-13120/01
> > > > to work properly.  The only vendor I could find on this continent that
> > > > had the part is Furneco International (www.furneco.com) in Canada.
> > > > They sell it for $14.50 plus shipping.  I found a few in Europe
> > > > (moslty Spain), but they did not ship to the US or you had to purchase
> > > > the thermocouple in bulk.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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