+1. When I originally said, “Replace the solenoid”, I meant the assembly—the 
magnet and the valve/piston come as a unit. Your disassembly and reassembly 
bought you a day, but I will still bet dollars to doughnuts that the solenoid 
is sticking and just found its old position after a day of use. Hard to explain 
what I’m trying to say, but it’s worn in a certain way and will probably work 
its way back to that and keep sticking, as you’ve seen.

It would be normal/expected for the magnet to still work; it’s not the moving 
part.

Best of luck.
bmc


> On May 17, 2017, at 07:01, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like you need to replace the solenoid.
> 
> Herman
> 
> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 9:59 AM, Howard Griffin <[email protected] 
> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> I think I have made some progress. I examined the fill sensor and it seemed 
> clean so I left it alone. I then proceeded to test the fill valve solenoid as 
> outlined in Todd's WLL video (beginning at 18:08 here: 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIiLeRdVWAU 
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIiLeRdVWAU>).
> 
> I disconnected the fill sensor and the pump and switched the power on and off 
> to see if the solenoid clicked the valve open and shut. 
> 
> I could not hear the solenoid clicking. 
> 
> I took the solenoid off the valve and measured the resistance across the 
> solenoid with an ohm meter, getting a reading of 369 (see photo). In his 
> video Todd got a reading of 400, and I don't know if my lower reading of 369 
> indicates a problem.
> 
> Before re-coupling the solenoid to the valve I rewired it and tested its 
> magnetism with a screwdriver, and it seemed to have plenty of magnetic 
> strength. 
> 
> I reattached the solenoid to the valve and, lo and behold, the valve started 
> clicking again when power was applied! Even though all I had done was removed 
> and reattached the solenoid to the valve. I put the machine back together and 
> it worked fine for the rest of the day.
> 
> The next morning the problem was back: the pump would not stop running after 
> powering up the machine. I did manage to finally get the pump to stop running 
> after repeatedly turning the power on and off and raising and lowering the 
> brew lever between power cycles (about 15 times before the pump went silent 
> and the machine began to heat up).
> 
> What does this suggest? To this noobie it seems like the fill valve may be 
> sticking. If it needs to be cleaned or replaced, how do I do that? I can't 
> find any instructional videos or guides for that. In his video, Todd simply 
> says that if, after verifying that the solenoid is good, you're not getting 
> water through the pump, then you have to take it apart and clean it out or 
> replace it. 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:49 AM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected] 
> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> Yes, that's the ground. Usually you can just clean it but no harm in 
> replacing. 
> Best,
> bmc
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 15, 2017, at 07:46, Howard Griffin <[email protected] 
> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> 
>> Yes that makes sense. Thank you for the thorough and thoughtful explanation. 
>> I am committed to figuring this out and fixing it myself. I assume that the 
>> "ground probe" is this part:<level probe.jpeg>. When I ordered the new 
>> vacuum valve I also ordered this part too, but didn't install it after the 
>> machine started working again. So I guess my next step is to install the new 
>> probe. I will let you know how that goes.
>> 
>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:18 AM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected] 
>> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>> Sorry, one more thing. If all of that fails, and if I’m correct on the 
>> solenoid being fired by relay, there is a chance the relay is the culprit, 
>> which means replacing the giemme controller (this did happen on mine 
>> also—both things failed eventually). I’d wait for someone else to chime in 
>> with more knowledge than me (Todd, Ira, etc.) before purchasing the giemme. 
>> But, for reference, I think the giemme was about $75, the solenoid maybe 
>> $100. So still very worthwhile repairs if the rest of the machine is doing 
>> well.
>> best,
>> bmc
>> 
>>> On May 15, 2017, at 07:12, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected] 
>>> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey Howard,
>>> I think you’re mixing up a couple of causes/symptoms. Here’s what happens 
>>> (normally) when the machine comes on.
>>> 
>>> --It senses whether the steam boiler is full via the ground probe that 
>>> sticks into the top of the boiler (and can be adjusted up or down, by the 
>>> way).
>>> --If not, it opens the solenoid (via relay in the giemme controller, I 
>>> believe) and starts the pump, until the water in steam boiler reaches the 
>>> ground probe. 
>>> --It then stops the pump and the solenoid closes. 
>>> --The pump is now available to push pressure on demand through the brew 
>>> boiler, which only happens when the lever is lifted to its top position.
>>> --The steam boiler heats first, and when it’s close to pressure, the vacuum 
>>> breaker you cleaned closes and makes a seal to let pressure build.
>>> --The brew boiler heats second, to a preset temperature.
>>> 
>>> Now then, if you think about it, the vacuum breaker has nothing to do with 
>>> startup (it is not engaged until well after the problem you’re having). So 
>>> here’s what you check:
>>> —Is the ground probe in the steam boiler connected and clean?
>>> —If so, you would look to either a stuck solenoid or a failing/failed pump.
>>> —Since you are developing 10bar of pressure, and the pump won’t quit, to me 
>>> that says two things:
>>>     —First, your pump is working, i.e. developing pressure in the brew 
>>> boiler
>>>     —Second, the pump is trying to fill the steam boiler, and can’t
>>>     —Because of these two things, I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that the 
>>> solenoid is stuck, and so no water is reaching the 
>>>     steam boiler, and so the solenoid never closes and shuts off the pump.
>>> 
>>> Make sense?
>>> 
>>> So, check the easy thing first (ground probe and wire, both ends), and then 
>>> move on to ordering a new solenoid and replacing it.
>>> 
>>> Others may have additional thoughts, but I’ve been down this road and it 
>>> wasn’t this clear cut. The 10bar in the brew boiler is a dead giveaway, in 
>>> my opinion.
>>> 
>>> Best of luck and keep us posted!
>>> Ben/bmc
>>> 
>>>> On May 15, 2017, at 06:48, [email protected] 
>>>> <mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I thought I had this problem solved after I took apart and cleaned the 
>>>> vacuum relief valve. It worked fine for the past two week but now the 
>>>> issue has recurred. When I turned the machine on yesterday morning the 
>>>> pump began to run and the pressure went up to 10 bar. The pump would not 
>>>> stop running and the pressure remained at 10 bar. I turned it off and 
>>>> tried starting it again several times thoughout the day but the behavior 
>>>> was always the same: constantly buzzing pump and pressure at 10 bar. 
>>>> Eventually a high pitched squeal developed along with the pump noise and I 
>>>> haven't turned it on again for fear of burning out the pump or causing 
>>>> other damage.
>>>> 
>>>> Any ideas? I have a brand new vacuum relief valve that I will install 
>>>> tonight. If that doesn't help I'm stuck.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> 
>>>> Howard
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> 
>>>> On Apr 26, 2017, at 14:59, Howard Griffin <[email protected] 
>>>> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> I have had my Brewtus III-V (vibration pump) for almost seven years. Its 
>>>>> usual behavior upon startup has been to buzz for a few seconds (5-10 
>>>>> seconds) and then start to heat up. The buzzing usually terminates with a 
>>>>> very brief uptick in volume before stopping. A typographical 
>>>>> representation might look like this: [click on] rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRR 
>>>>> [noise stops machine begins to heat up]. Sometimes there would be no 
>>>>> buzzing at all upon turning it on and it would begin to heat up right 
>>>>> away. This was its normal behavior until recently.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Now, when I turn it on the buzzing frequently goes on for a very long 
>>>>> time—up to three or four minutes before resolving in an uptick in volume, 
>>>>> like this:
>>>>>  
>>>>> [click on] 
>>>>> rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRR
>>>>>  [noise stops machine begins to heat up]. Sometimes it still starts up 
>>>>> with no noise and begins to heat up right away. 
>>>>>  
>>>>> Is something about to fail on the machine? What should I check? Any 
>>>>> advice would be appreciated.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Howard
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>> 
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