I am guessing that there is corrosion or mineral build up on the plunger,
part E and or F.

You can take that apart without removing  the valve body (F) from the
machine.

It may or may not work and if does I can't tell for how long.


Todd




On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 11:05 AM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
wrote:

> I don’t recall specifically because I have done so much on my machine over
> the years. But I do see that you already have the part out, so never mind.
>
> In your photo, parts C,D,E,F should constitute the new valve assembly. I
> wasn’t aware you could buy just that without the black brick, but if so, go
> for it. In my case, we suspected the magnet as well and so got the whole
> thing.
>
> Take care,
> bmc
>
> On May 17, 2017, at 08:02, Howard Griffin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Oh dear I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove any boilers. That sounds
> pretty scary to me.
>
> Could you explain a little more about "support all tubing with a wrench
> when loosening, i.e. use two wrenches on each connection"? Are there always
> two nuts on every tubing connection?
>
> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:56 AM, Howard Griffin <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> I already had the black brick out of the machine. It has a hole through
>> the middle after it is removed. It seems fairly easy to replace. What I am
>> still unclear on is the rest of the valve:
>>
>> <image.png>
>>         ^                  ^                      ^                ^
>>           ^                         ^
>>         A                 B                     C               D
>>       E                        F
>>
>>
>> What I removed and replaced were just the two components on the left
>> (which I have labeled A and B): the nut and the black box with the yellow
>> sticker. The other three components (C, D, E, and F) I did not remove. Do I
>> have to replace all 6 parts?
>>
>> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:40 AM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I see Howard beat me to the punch. Replacing the solenoid just involves
>>> removing the tubing and wiring from the black brick, and replacing with the
>>> new one. Take photos and label wires if at all possible. The new unit will
>>> need to have the tubing and so forth oriented to match the original; IIRC
>>> one of the tubes will arrive 180 degrees opposite the needed config. There
>>> is a nut that you can loosen to allow this change.
>>> best,
>>> bmc
>>>
>>> On May 17, 2017, at 07:07, Howard Griffin <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> That's what I was thinking. How do I replace the whole thing? I'm new to
>>> Brewtus repairing, but I have found Todd's videos very helpful.
>>> Unfortunately there's not one on how to replace the solenoid/fill valve.
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:04 AM, herman dickens <
>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The whole thing. It sounds like the valve is sticking.
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Howard Griffin <
>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just the solenoid? Or the valve too?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:01 AM, herman dickens <
>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Sounds like you need to replace the solenoid.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Herman
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 9:59 AM, Howard Griffin <
>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I think I have made some progress. I examined the fill sensor and it
>>>>>>> seemed clean so I left it alone. I then proceeded to test the fill valve
>>>>>>> solenoid as outlined in Todd's WLL video (beginning at 18:08 here:
>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIiLeRdVWAU).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I disconnected the fill sensor and the pump and switched the power
>>>>>>> on and off to see if the solenoid clicked the valve open and shut.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I could not hear the solenoid clicking.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I took the solenoid off the valve and measured the resistance across
>>>>>>> the solenoid with an ohm meter, getting a reading of 369 (see photo). In
>>>>>>> his video Todd got a reading of 400, and I don't know if my lower 
>>>>>>> reading
>>>>>>> of 369 indicates a problem.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Before re-coupling the solenoid to the valve I rewired it and tested
>>>>>>> its magnetism with a screwdriver, and it seemed to have plenty of 
>>>>>>> magnetic
>>>>>>> strength.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I reattached the solenoid to the valve and, lo and behold, the valve
>>>>>>> started clicking again when power was applied! Even though all I had 
>>>>>>> done
>>>>>>> was removed and reattached the solenoid to the valve. I put the machine
>>>>>>> back together and it worked fine for the rest of the day.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The next morning the problem was back: the pump would not stop
>>>>>>> running after powering up the machine. I did manage to finally get the 
>>>>>>> pump
>>>>>>> to stop running after repeatedly turning the power on and off and 
>>>>>>> raising
>>>>>>> and lowering the brew lever between power cycles (about 15 times before 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> pump went silent and the machine began to heat up).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What does this suggest? To this noobie it seems like the fill valve
>>>>>>> may be sticking. If it needs to be cleaned or replaced, how do I do 
>>>>>>> that? I
>>>>>>> can't find any instructional videos or guides for that. In his video, 
>>>>>>> Todd
>>>>>>> simply says that if, after verifying that the solenoid is good, you're 
>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>> getting water through the pump, then you have to take it apart and 
>>>>>>> clean it
>>>>>>> out or replace it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks for your help.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:49 AM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yes, that's the ground. Usually you can just clean it but no harm
>>>>>>>> in replacing.
>>>>>>>> Best,
>>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On May 15, 2017, at 07:46, Howard Griffin <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yes that makes sense. Thank you for the thorough and thoughtful
>>>>>>>> explanation. I am committed to figuring this out and fixing it myself. 
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>> assume that the "ground probe" is this part:<level probe.jpeg>. When I
>>>>>>>> ordered the new vacuum valve I also ordered this part too, but didn't
>>>>>>>> install it after the machine started working again. So I guess my next 
>>>>>>>> step
>>>>>>>> is to install the new probe. I will let you know how that goes.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:18 AM, Benjamin McCafferty <
>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sorry, one more thing. If all of that fails, and if I’m correct on
>>>>>>>>> the solenoid being fired by relay, there is a chance the relay is the
>>>>>>>>> culprit, which means replacing the giemme controller (this did happen 
>>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>> mine also—both things failed eventually). I’d wait for someone else to
>>>>>>>>> chime in with more knowledge than me (Todd, Ira, etc.) before 
>>>>>>>>> purchasing
>>>>>>>>> the giemme. But, for reference, I think the giemme was about $75, the
>>>>>>>>> solenoid maybe $100. So still very worthwhile repairs if the rest of 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> machine is doing well.
>>>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On May 15, 2017, at 07:12, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hey Howard,
>>>>>>>>> I think you’re mixing up a couple of causes/symptoms. Here’s what
>>>>>>>>> happens (normally) when the machine comes on.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> --It senses whether the steam boiler is full via the ground probe
>>>>>>>>> that sticks into the top of the boiler (and can be adjusted up or 
>>>>>>>>> down, by
>>>>>>>>> the way).
>>>>>>>>> --If not, it opens the solenoid (via relay in the giemme
>>>>>>>>> controller, I believe) and starts the pump, until the water in steam 
>>>>>>>>> boiler
>>>>>>>>> reaches the ground probe.
>>>>>>>>> --It then stops the pump and the solenoid closes.
>>>>>>>>> --The pump is now available to push pressure on demand through the
>>>>>>>>> brew boiler, which only happens when the lever is lifted to its top
>>>>>>>>> position.
>>>>>>>>> --The steam boiler heats first, and when it’s close to pressure,
>>>>>>>>> the vacuum breaker you cleaned closes and makes a seal to let pressure
>>>>>>>>> build.
>>>>>>>>> --The brew boiler heats second, to a preset temperature.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Now then, if you think about it, the vacuum breaker has nothing to
>>>>>>>>> do with startup (it is not engaged until well after the problem you’re
>>>>>>>>> having). So here’s what you check:
>>>>>>>>> —Is the ground probe in the steam boiler connected and clean?
>>>>>>>>> —If so, you would look to either a stuck solenoid or a
>>>>>>>>> failing/failed pump.
>>>>>>>>> —Since you are developing 10bar of pressure, and the pump won’t
>>>>>>>>> quit, to me that says two things:
>>>>>>>>> —First, your pump is working, i.e. developing pressure in the brew
>>>>>>>>> boiler
>>>>>>>>> —Second, the pump is trying to fill the steam boiler, and can’t
>>>>>>>>> —Because of these two things, I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that
>>>>>>>>> the solenoid is stuck, and so no water is reaching the
>>>>>>>>> steam boiler, and so the solenoid never closes and shuts off the
>>>>>>>>> pump.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Make sense?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> So, check the easy thing first (ground probe and wire, both ends),
>>>>>>>>> and then move on to ordering a new solenoid and replacing it.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Others may have additional thoughts, but I’ve been down this road
>>>>>>>>> and it wasn’t this clear cut. The 10bar in the brew boiler is a dead
>>>>>>>>> giveaway, in my opinion.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Best of luck and keep us posted!
>>>>>>>>> Ben/bmc
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On May 15, 2017, at 06:48, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I thought I had this problem solved after I took apart and cleaned
>>>>>>>>> the vacuum relief valve. It worked fine for the past two week but now 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> issue has recurred. When I turned the machine on yesterday morning 
>>>>>>>>> the pump
>>>>>>>>> began to run and the pressure went up to 10 bar. The pump would not 
>>>>>>>>> stop
>>>>>>>>> running and the pressure remained at 10 bar. I turned it off and tried
>>>>>>>>> starting it again several times thoughout the day but the behavior was
>>>>>>>>> always the same: constantly buzzing pump and pressure at 10 bar. 
>>>>>>>>> Eventually
>>>>>>>>> a high pitched squeal developed along with the pump noise and I 
>>>>>>>>> haven't
>>>>>>>>> turned it on again for fear of burning out the pump or causing other 
>>>>>>>>> damage.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Any ideas? I have a brand new vacuum relief valve that I will
>>>>>>>>> install tonight. If that doesn't help I'm stuck.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Howard
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Apr 26, 2017, at 14:59, Howard Griffin <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I have had my Brewtus III-V (vibration pump) for almost seven
>>>>>>>>> years. Its usual behavior upon startup has been to buzz for a few 
>>>>>>>>> seconds
>>>>>>>>> (5-10 seconds) and then start to heat up. The buzzing usually 
>>>>>>>>> terminates
>>>>>>>>> with a very brief uptick in volume before stopping. A typographical
>>>>>>>>> representation might look like this: [click on] rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRR 
>>>>>>>>> [noise
>>>>>>>>> stops machine begins to heat up]. Sometimes there would be no buzzing 
>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>> all upon turning it on and it would begin to heat up right away. This 
>>>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>> its normal behavior until recently.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Now, when I turn it on the buzzing frequently goes on for a very
>>>>>>>>> long time—up to three or four minutes before resolving in an uptick in
>>>>>>>>> volume, like this:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> [click on] rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
>>>>>>>>> rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
>>>>>>>>> rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRR [noise stops machine
>>>>>>>>> begins to heat up]. Sometimes it still starts up with no noise and 
>>>>>>>>> begins
>>>>>>>>> to heat up right away.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Is something about to fail on the machine? What should I check?
>>>>>>>>> Any advice would be appreciated.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Howard
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> --
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