Wow. Lots of questions. I've got clip in leads for my multimeter, so I can clip them on and operate the machine safety without risk of electric shock. If you can't do it with your hands off, it is probably a bit risky.
If you want to do the safe stuff first, with the machine unplugged, put your mutimeter into ohms or resistance mode. Test between the 2 terminals of your temperature cut off switches (one on each boiler). You should get a low number near 0. Large numbers or no reading at all would indicate an issue. Unplug each element (both terminals) and measure the resistance across them. For 120V/2000W you should get around 7 or 8 ohms. I'm not sure if that's the standard wattage for North American units or not, if it is lower, you will get a larger number. I'd expect it would be no more than 30 ohms though. Any significant number above that would be bad. Note that both elements should be about the same. That kind of tests the element and cut out switch: although strange things can happen when things get power and/or when they warm up (hence why testing with power is sometimes necessary to find issues). If the machine's steam lamp is turning on and off at 1-1.4bar and continuing to cycle like that, I imagine the PSAT is OK. will really need to power it up to test the PSAT. Perhaps try the unpowered things first, then we can think about how to test with power applied. As for how to test the PSAT... Looking at mine, the PSAT is configured with the top terminal common, middle terminal NO and bottom terminal NC. To test while power is on, I'd put my multimeter to a suitable range for 120VAC, then put one of my multimeter leads to neutral (blue on the power switch) and test the NC and NO pins of the PSAT. The top common pin should always have power. The middle NO pin should have power when the steam boiler is off (brew boiler should be getting power at that point). Bottom terminal should have power when steam boiler is operating. Good luck and stay safe (please only work on a powered device if you know what you are doing). On Mon, 10 Aug 2020, 3:46 pm Rizwan Naveed, <[email protected]> wrote: > Thank you and bless your soul for your thoughts! > > I think you’re on to something. So if I understand correctly - next step > is to check heating elements. > > How can I do this with a multimeter? Machine on, or off? No level of > detail will be too dumb for me, I literally just tried today to understand > how to use a multimeter so really appreciate even a quick thought! > > Given that I was getting 120V between the bottom red connector on pstat > and the top metal part of brew boiler, couldn’t we conclude that Pstat is > fine? > > I also strongly suspect the over temp protectors. Do you know how to test > them? > > Tbh I also want to replace almost preemptively the over temp protectors > and the Pstat - did you look into what replacements go in by any chance? > > Sorry for questions I really fell in love with this machine and now my > baby is broken :) > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/c435ad5f-d46f-4af1-a53a-a6f862803a2do%40googlegroups.com > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/CANK1YTqL-ZNiMfV%3DwwunM8gP4Wf5xEJGhmy5PYf9_kxvMd6pKA%40mail.gmail.com.
