Aaron, if you are a novice, you are gifted my friend!!!

I did the off tests, see results below - I believe the culprit in red. 
would this be just a case of ordering the part and dropping it in? I have 
the machine open..any other parts you recommend to test at this point or 
proceed with confidence? Thank god the elements looked good - replacing 
them felt like quite an ambitious team based effort haha

Off tests: Multi meter in resistance mode

Check temp switches - get a low number near 0? If large or no reading -> 
problem

Check continuity

Steam boiler - got low number + got continuity 

Brew boiler - no number (infinity) and *no continuity*

Unplug heating element (??) and check resistance across both. 120V/2000W 
resistance at 7 to 8ohms

Steam boiler resistance: 13 to 14 ohms

Brew boiler resistance: 13 ohms

On Monday, August 10, 2020 at 5:28:17 AM UTC-4, OzAaron wrote:
>
> Wow. Lots of questions.
>
> I've got clip in leads for my multimeter, so I can clip them on and 
> operate the machine safety without risk of electric shock. If you can't do 
> it with your hands off, it is probably a bit risky.
>
> If you want to do the safe stuff first, with the machine unplugged, put 
> your mutimeter into ohms or resistance mode.
>
> Test between the 2 terminals of your temperature cut off switches (one on 
> each boiler). You should get a low number near 0. Large numbers or no 
> reading at all would indicate an issue.
>
> Unplug each element (both terminals) and measure the resistance across 
> them. For 120V/2000W you should get around 7 or 8 ohms. I'm not sure if 
> that's the standard wattage for North American units or not, if it is 
> lower, you will get a larger number. I'd expect it would be no more than 30 
> ohms though. Any significant number above that would be bad. Note that both 
> elements should be about the same.
>
> That kind of tests the element and cut out switch: although strange things 
> can happen when things get power and/or when they warm up (hence why 
> testing with power is sometimes necessary to find issues).
>
> If the machine's steam lamp is turning on and off at 1-1.4bar and 
> continuing to cycle like that, I imagine the PSAT is OK. will really need 
> to power it up to test the PSAT. Perhaps try the unpowered things first, 
> then we can think about how to test with power applied.
>
> As for how to test the PSAT... Looking at mine, the PSAT is configured 
> with the top terminal common, middle terminal NO and bottom terminal NC. To 
> test while power is on, I'd put my multimeter to a suitable range for 
> 120VAC, then put one of my multimeter leads to neutral (blue on the power 
> switch) and test the NC and NO pins of the PSAT. The top common pin should 
> always have power. The middle NO pin should have power when the steam 
> boiler is off (brew boiler should be getting power at that point). Bottom 
> terminal should have power when steam boiler is operating.
>
> Good luck and stay safe (please only work on a powered device if you know 
> what you are doing).
>
>
>
> On Mon, 10 Aug 2020, 3:46 pm Rizwan Naveed, <[email protected] 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
>> Thank you and bless your soul for your thoughts!
>>
>> I think you’re on to something. So if I understand correctly - next step 
>> is to check heating elements. 
>>
>> How can I do this with a multimeter? Machine on, or off? No level of 
>> detail will be too dumb for me, I literally just tried today to understand 
>> how to use a multimeter so really appreciate even a quick thought!
>>
>> Given that I was getting 120V between the bottom red connector on pstat 
>> and the top metal part of brew boiler, couldn’t we conclude that Pstat is 
>> fine?
>>
>> I also strongly suspect the over temp protectors. Do you know how to test 
>> them? 
>>
>> Tbh I also want to replace almost preemptively the over temp protectors 
>> and the Pstat - did you look into what replacements go in by any chance?
>>
>> Sorry for questions I really fell in love with this machine and now my 
>> baby is broken :)
>>
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>

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