On 20/10/21 8:11 am, Jonathan Stroum wrote:
Andrey,
I think Yandi is probably right and you should do a resistance
measurement on the heating element to confirm.
I'd agree - check the resistance of the two pins on the heater(s) to
ground. The boiler and the chassis is grounded. Should be infinite
resistance, any breakdown of the element will see resistance to ground :(
It'll then start tripping any earth leakage protection on your household
circuit...
Extracting the boiler element, for me, required a 120 lb air-driven
impact wrench. I think I read earlier that your machine is a BII and
many of those element threads were treated with a glue type sealer.
Don’t recall the size of the nut. You could probably get it loose
with a ½” breaker bar with an iron pipe attached for extra leverage.
Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the
question about descaling.
The element on mine was a 37mm nut. Weird size. I had a 36mm and a
38mm socket... You access via two holes in the bottom of the chassis -
there are two black circular covers that get you straight access to the
elements... Nice design. I used a 38mm socket and an 18V impact driver
to remove it. Mine is a Minore-II which is the Australian version of a
Brewtus-II so it is similar to yours. I needed to impact drive the
heater threads ALL the way - the threadseal they use does not let go. I
replaced it with the impact tool too but used thick PFTE thread tape.
I'd strongly suggest using a breaker bar is a bad idea - the impact
driver is much less brutal to boiler. You'd need to put some kind of
chain wrench around the boiler and have your neighbourhood 200lb gorilla
hold the boiler to prevent you twisting it out of the machine if you use
a bar...
Having done the job on my steam boiler, I reckon I can do the brew
boiler (when it goes) in maybe 10mins. It's a very simple job.
Compared to the heater elements I've replaced in other espresso machines
for colleagues, this is a breeze. But you do need an impact tool...
Cheers
/Kevin
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