Some older Brewtus II were manufactured with epoxy thread sealers. Allow boiler to heat up and the bolt will be easy to remove by hand. I had a 2006 Brewtus II and upgraded to PID kit. I could not remove the brew boiler temp probe. I had to travel to WLL in Rochester who told me about the the thread sealer. Exopobar did that for about a year. WLL were able to heat up the brew boiler and then easily removed the bolt.
Hint: look at the 2 connectors under the water tank. There are 3 plugs. Swap one of the connectors to the empty plug, turn on the Brewtus II and the boilers will heat up even if water tank is removed. On Friday, October 22, 2021 at 1:41:58 PM UTC-4 KJM wrote: > On 22/10/21 3:49 am, Ira wrote: > > Hello 'Andrey, > > > Thursday, October 21, 2021, 8:25:12 AM, you wrote: > > > Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version handle > the glue? > > You need a big socket and a 1/2" drive impact, the kind you'd use to > remove lug nuts to take it off in place. I've not had to do it yet so I > don't know what it entails. Like all things with an impact, be gentle > replacing it, hand tighten all the way before trying to tighten it. And > then another some amount, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or something like that. Maybe > someone who knows will pop up with an answer. > > Sorry - living 0.5 planets away from the conversation means a 12 hour > delay :) > > > I bought an 18V ebay sourced cheap 1/2" impact driver. It takes Makita > batteries, and claims 520Nm of torque. It might not do that much, but it > does a LOT. I bought it for use on my ute (truck). It has not failed to > undo anything as yet! It is mildly amusing to see large tools (a 38mm > socket on an impact wrench is not svelte!) being used on what is a kitchen > appliance... > > > I should have said I also used a pick tool - like a dental pick - to chase > out the threads in the boiler. The threadseal they used kind of balled up > into little blobs and removing it seemed wise. > > > The boilers are not strongly attached to anything - there is no > requirement that they be so, and hence the use of an impact tool. I used > it to put the new element in too - these tools just spin the socket till it > becomes 'tight' and then start the impact-er-ation. I'd not usually do the > re-assembly with one, but I couldn't see how to manage to hold the boiler > while conventionally nipping up the new element.. I did pretty much as Ira > says above: run it home till it is fully screwed in and then about a 1/8th > of a turn in impact mode. Didn't leak. I kind-of thought it might but it > has not leaked a drop. > > > The only complication I had is the new boiler elements have flying leads, > the old ones just 2 spade connectors. But a 38mm socket has tons of space > so the wires were just smooshed into the spare space and the thing screwed > into place. > > > There is a small hazard though as anyone who has worked inside an Expobar > machine would know: the metal parts are sheared and the edges bite the > unwary. The circular holes in the frame with the black plastic covers are > a case in point.... > > > Happy repairing! > > > Cheers > > /Kevin > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/9fef0ba6-65ef-4033-9f3e-2ddd5a13223cn%40googlegroups.com.
