Thanks for the information - are there any pictures? Are you saying you can access heating elements just by turning over the machine? Is removing a brew boiler on option? That would be way easier to ship to WLL and or replace. I have yet to drain it (nut on top of the group head?) but think it’s filled with sludge from cracked heating element.
Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 20, 2021, at 11:03 PM, Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> wrote: > > > On 20/10/21 8:11 am, Jonathan Stroum wrote: >> Andrey, >> >> I think Yandi is probably right and you should do a resistance measurement >> on the heating element to confirm. >> > I'd agree - check the resistance of the two pins on the heater(s) to ground. > The boiler and the chassis is grounded. Should be infinite resistance, any > breakdown of the element will see resistance to ground :( > > It'll then start tripping any earth leakage protection on your household > circuit... > >> Extracting the boiler element, for me, required a 120 lb air-driven impact >> wrench. I think I read earlier that your machine is a BII and many of those >> element threads were treated with a glue type sealer. Don’t recall the size >> of the nut. You could probably get it loose with a ½” breaker bar with an >> iron pipe attached for extra leverage. >> >> Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the question >> about descaling. >> > The element on mine was a 37mm nut. Weird size. I had a 36mm and a 38mm > socket... You access via two holes in the bottom of the chassis - there are > two black circular covers that get you straight access to the elements... > Nice design. I used a 38mm socket and an 18V impact driver to remove it. > Mine is a Minore-II which is the Australian version of a Brewtus-II so it is > similar to yours. I needed to impact drive the heater threads ALL the way - > the threadseal they use does not let go. I replaced it with the impact tool > too but used thick PFTE thread tape. I'd strongly suggest using a breaker > bar is a bad idea - the impact driver is much less brutal to boiler. You'd > need to put some kind of chain wrench around the boiler and have your > neighbourhood 200lb gorilla hold the boiler to prevent you twisting it out of > the machine if you use a bar... > > Having done the job on my steam boiler, I reckon I can do the brew boiler > (when it goes) in maybe 10mins. It's a very simple job. Compared to the > heater elements I've replaced in other espresso machines for colleagues, this > is a breeze. But you do need an impact tool... > > Cheers > > /Kevin > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/90765d35-49c8-4d34-e239-016863bd1f01%40gmail.com. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/ECFD388C-184B-44A4-B34F-26980F90F952%40aol.com.
