Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version handle the glue?
Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 21, 2021, at 11:10 AM, Andrey Sychev <[email protected]> wrote: > > Thanks for the information - are there any pictures? Are you saying you can > access heating elements just by turning over the machine? Is removing a brew > boiler on option? That would be way easier to ship to WLL and or replace. I > have yet to drain it (nut on top of the group head?) but think it’s filled > with sludge from cracked heating element. > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Oct 20, 2021, at 11:03 PM, Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> >>> wrote: >>> >> >> On 20/10/21 8:11 am, Jonathan Stroum wrote: >>> Andrey, >>> >>> I think Yandi is probably right and you should do a resistance measurement >>> on the heating element to confirm. >>> >> I'd agree - check the resistance of the two pins on the heater(s) to ground. >> The boiler and the chassis is grounded. Should be infinite resistance, any >> breakdown of the element will see resistance to ground :( >> >> It'll then start tripping any earth leakage protection on your household >> circuit... >> >>> Extracting the boiler element, for me, required a 120 lb air-driven impact >>> wrench. I think I read earlier that your machine is a BII and many of >>> those element threads were treated with a glue type sealer. Don’t recall >>> the size of the nut. You could probably get it loose with a ½” breaker bar >>> with an iron pipe attached for extra leverage. >>> >>> Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the question >>> about descaling. >>> >> The element on mine was a 37mm nut. Weird size. I had a 36mm and a 38mm >> socket... You access via two holes in the bottom of the chassis - there are >> two black circular covers that get you straight access to the elements... >> Nice design. I used a 38mm socket and an 18V impact driver to remove it. >> Mine is a Minore-II which is the Australian version of a Brewtus-II so it is >> similar to yours. I needed to impact drive the heater threads ALL the way - >> the threadseal they use does not let go. I replaced it with the impact tool >> too but used thick PFTE thread tape. I'd strongly suggest using a breaker >> bar is a bad idea - the impact driver is much less brutal to boiler. You'd >> need to put some kind of chain wrench around the boiler and have your >> neighbourhood 200lb gorilla hold the boiler to prevent you twisting it out >> of the machine if you use a bar... >> >> Having done the job on my steam boiler, I reckon I can do the brew boiler >> (when it goes) in maybe 10mins. It's a very simple job. Compared to the >> heater elements I've replaced in other espresso machines for colleagues, >> this is a breeze. But you do need an impact tool... >> >> Cheers >> >> /Kevin >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Brewtus" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> To view this discussion on the web visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/90765d35-49c8-4d34-e239-016863bd1f01%40gmail.com. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/442F4F81-24D2-48E1-9345-4078690097CE%40aol.com.
