For what it's worth:

I removed my steam boiler completely and secured it to a rig (so thst i
wouldn't crush the side walls) and tried to remove it with my pneumatic
impact wrench which is a small 250ft-lb IR using a 1 7/16" socket.  It
didn't budge the sealant that WLL had used during the rebuild.

I didn't want to buy new air tools so i took it to a car shop around the
corner; their high-torque wrench got it off in a couple seconds.

When i reassembled with the new element i used "T plus 2" sealant which is
an NSF rated non-hardening pipe sealant rated to withstand 10,000 psi.  I
have had that sealant on for about a year with no leaks, no pressure loss.
I think the hardening epoxy sealant just isn't necessary and modern
products are much more practical.

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 10:06 PM Dave B <[email protected]> wrote:

> happily NO MORE EXPOS FOR SALE !!!
>
> On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 6:33 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler
>> off the machine and shipping it an option on early B2? Any tips on reaching
>> Todd S.?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 23, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Richard <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Some older Brewtus II were manufactured with epoxy thread sealers. Allow
>> boiler to heat up and the bolt will be easy to remove by hand.
>> I had a 2006 Brewtus II and upgraded to PID kit. I could not remove the
>> brew boiler temp probe.
>> I had to travel to WLL in Rochester who told me about the the thread
>> sealer. Exopobar did that for about a year.
>> WLL were able to heat up the brew boiler and then easily removed the bolt.
>>
>> Hint: look at the 2 connectors under the water tank. There are 3 plugs.
>> Swap one of the connectors to the empty plug, turn on the Brewtus II and
>> the boilers will heat up even if water tank is removed.
>> On Friday, October 22, 2021 at 1:41:58 PM UTC-4 KJM wrote:
>>
>>> On 22/10/21 3:49 am, Ira wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello 'Andrey,
>>>
>>>
>>> Thursday, October 21, 2021, 8:25:12 AM, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version
>>>  handle the glue?
>>>
>>> You need a big socket and a 1/2" drive impact, the kind you'd use to
>>> remove lug nuts to take it off in place. I've not had to do it yet so I
>>> don't know what it entails. Like all things with an impact, be gentle
>>> replacing it, hand tighten all the way before trying to tighten it. And
>>> then another some amount, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or something like that. Maybe
>>> someone who knows will pop up with an answer.
>>>
>>> Sorry - living 0.5 planets away from the conversation means a 12 hour
>>> delay :)
>>>
>>>
>>> I bought an 18V ebay sourced cheap 1/2" impact driver.  It takes Makita
>>> batteries, and claims 520Nm of torque.  It might not do that much, but it
>>> does a LOT.  I bought it for use on my ute (truck).  It has not failed to
>>> undo anything as yet!  It is mildly amusing to see large tools (a 38mm
>>> socket on an impact wrench is not svelte!) being used on what is a kitchen
>>> appliance...
>>>
>>>
>>> I should have said I also used a pick tool - like a dental pick - to
>>> chase out the threads in the boiler.  The threadseal they used kind of
>>> balled up into little blobs and removing it seemed wise.
>>>
>>>
>>> The boilers are not strongly attached to anything - there is no
>>> requirement that they be so, and hence the use of an impact tool.  I used
>>> it to put the new element in too - these tools just spin the socket till it
>>> becomes 'tight' and then start the impact-er-ation.  I'd not usually do the
>>> re-assembly with one, but I couldn't see how to manage to hold the boiler
>>> while conventionally nipping up the new element..  I did pretty much as Ira
>>> says above: run it home till it is fully screwed in and then about a 1/8th
>>> of a turn in impact mode.  Didn't leak.  I kind-of thought it might but it
>>> has not leaked a drop.
>>>
>>>
>>> The only complication I had  is the new boiler elements have flying
>>> leads, the old ones just 2 spade connectors.  But a 38mm socket has tons of
>>> space so the wires were just smooshed into the spare space and the thing
>>> screwed into place.
>>>
>>>
>>> There is a small hazard though as anyone who has worked inside an
>>> Expobar machine would know: the metal parts are sheared and the edges bite
>>> the unwary.  The circular holes in the frame with the black plastic covers
>>> are a case in point....
>>>
>>>
>>> Happy repairing!
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> /Kevin
>>>
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