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Here is the document I was talking about earlier. Goes into general
race tactics too. All specific to a C27.
I can't say that I follow all of his advice, but he wins A LOT.
Jib Trim Light Air 1-4 knots East jib halyard until scallops start to
appear. Barely to no backstay
tension. Jib car either outboard or
inboard, but the foot of the jib must be outside the stanchions. Jib should be 18 inches to 3 feet from
spreader depending on the wind velocity.
Heel the boat to leeward with weight near the keel (out of the bow and
stern). Your weight and heel could
be more effective at steerage that your rudder. Weight forward to come into the wind,
aft to fall away from the wind.
Main sail halyard eased a little, let
the top batten get through the backstay easier and some wrinkles in the
luff. Outhaul off a bit. Sail twisted and off
centerline. Light Air 4-6 knots Pull the jib halyard until the scallops
are barely there. Just a touch of
backstay, keep the jib full. Jib
leech about 10-18 inches away from the spreader (depending on the chop or
slop). Keep the heel on the boat,
weight for and aft near the position of the keel. Light Air 6-10 knots Pull the jib halyard to no
scallops. More backstay on to pull
the draft in the jib forward and point.
Skirt the jib. Cars
definitely inboard position. Keep
the boat fairly flat. Jib about
4-10 inches from the spreader depending on the chop. A lot of chop would mean the slot should
be open and foot to drive the boat through the waves. Flat conditions – close the slot a
little and point. Main halyard up. Sail twisted, but more on
centerline. Moderate Air 10-14 knots Halyards tight, no wrinkles. Backstay on, pull the draft forward and
point. 2-8 inches from the spreader
depending on chop. Keep the boat
flat. Drive it hard, keep the
boatspeed and start carrying the speed closer to the wind when can and foot off
as speed starts to decrease.
Concentrate on the tell tales and boat speed. Enjoy the
wind. Main sail – boom on centerline
(technique – boom could be above the centerline to 2 inches below depending on
the feel of the boat). Moderate to Heavy Air 14-16 knots About time to switch to the number
2. Backstay on. Pull the draft forward in the job or get
pulled sideways. Jib 4-10 inches
from the spreader. Keep the boat
flat. Main sail – set the traveler so the boat
will usually stay level and set it (except in the
gusts). Heavy Air Above 16 knots If you have not switched to the number
2, you might be in trouble.
Backstay on. Weight moves
aft some to keep the rudder in the water.
Sail the boat flat, play the main traveler. Hike out and make sure everyone is off
the cabin top and on the rail. Downwind – move weight aft if the boat
starts rolling, keep the rudder in the water (the boat is pretty beamy and
dramatic heeling will make the rudder ineffective). Skipper and Crew Coordination
“Put the boat on a diet.” Well do it. Take out all the junk, extra stuff that
has been there for years, put in only what you will need for the day or the
series. Read the dam instructions on the way
out. Better yet, the night
before. Check for updates on the
web. Get the wind and current
predictions. Know who is crewing
and their positions. Do not over
pack. Coordinate with who is
bringing what. Some people end up
with months worth of sodas and water, chips, cheese, dip and sandwiches after
the race. It doesn’t do much good
to have 40 pounds of leftovers all the time. Freeze your water and Gatorade the night
before and use it to cool the beer and sodas. Don’t carry too much ice. J-24 sailors allow the crew on only what
they ware so there are no backpacks of clothes, towels, shampoo, foul weather
gear and the like. On the way to the start Go over the race instructions with the
crew. Where are we racing, when are
we going to start, what is our sequence in the start, who do we follow, how much
current, when and in which direction?
If we all agree to start left and go left – why the hell are we on the
right side of the course? Practice Get the sails up. Do a couple of tacks. 2 spinnaker sets and take downs. Then a couple of tacks to make
sure the lines are clear. Make your
mistakes NOW, before the race.
Get the bugs out, now is the time for the bowline to slip or the pole to
go over the jib sheets. Get the
mind ready to race and not on last night’s
festivities. Start Get to where the line is. Determine the wind direction and take
some wind shots every 20 minutes.
Is there a shift? Determine
what the tide are current are doing.
How is this going to affect you?
Which side is favored? Where
do you want to start? Talk it
over with the crew and let them in on the plan. Go for clear air at the favored
end. Hopefully you can just get out
in front and cover. If not, then figure out how you are
going to catch boats and get back in the game. Weather leg Go to the side you believe is favored –
the wind, current and mark placement all play key roles. Get clear air. Set yourself up for a good
rounding. Do not do too many
tacks. Usually 5-6 tacks on a leg
are sufficient. Sometimes less if
you have clear air and going in the direction you need to
go. Rounding the weather mark
On NO! we are coming into the mark. Where is the spinnaker bag? How about the pole? Do I need to do a gybe or bear away
set? Set yourself up to round the
mark and be set to transition to spinnaker before you get there. Round the mark a little wide at the
start of the turn so the boat is close abeam after 90 degrees of turn. Start the spinnaker up as you feel the
is best. Pole is set and pull the
sheet and guy as spinnaker goes up.
Set the main and jib as if the spinner will not work. Backstay off an outhaul out. Lower the jib after the spinnaker
is up and drawing. Throw the
spinnaker bag down below NOW. Get
into position, person holding out the boom will call the wind and tactics from
behind.
About 100 yards from the mark start the
jib up one third and look for crossed lines, get the jib clew to the side
desired for the next rounding. Crew
– talk through the jib up and spinnaker down. Skipper – Decide the mark now and how
you will round it and tell the crew.
50 yards – jib up – adjust the halyard tension now, outhaul out and
backstay on. About 30 yards out or
so drop the spinnaker and pole. Round the mark about half to a boat
length abeam so as you turn you will end up right beside the mark and no one can
squeeze inside. Get the sails
drawing, weight where it needs to be and have a light person to clean up the
lines. COVER YOUR LEAD AND GET CLEAR AIR.
Chris
D
toy box eastport, md |
- catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails Henry Hubbard
- RE: catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails Phil Agur
- Re: catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails Boatopia410
- RE: catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails Robert Mann
- catalina27-talk: Rudder Stuffing Box Don Brooks
- Re: catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails Boatopia410
- Re: catalina27-talk: Wind Speed For Sails David Techlin
- catalina27-talk: RE: catalina27- Sails Jones, Lance B
- Re: catalina27-talk: RE: catalina27- Sails Patrick R Ford
- RE: catalina27-talk: RE: catalina27- Sails Jones, Lance B
- Re: catalina27-talk: RE: catalina27- Sails Don Brooks
- RE: catalina27-talk: RE: catalina27- Sails Jones, Lance B
- RE: catalina27-talk: Flushing the head Jones, Lance B
- RE: catalina27-talk: Hull Speed Jones, Lance B
- RE: catalina27-talk: Hull Speed Phil Agur

