Just remember not to cut the curled white wire that goes directly to the
grounded conductor bus bar (neutral). This wire acts a bit like a coil and
affects the sensing of the slight current flow to ground which is how the
GFCI's theoritically work. The slightest bit of current flow and you're
protected by the breaker tripping. The negative is that they can be too
sensitive and an inductive load (hair dryer or any motor) will sometime produce
a nuisance trip. As they age they get worse about that. The GFCI breaker will
have a terminal for the hot (probably black) wire and the screw terminal will
be of darker color like copper in appearance. The circuit white wire will go
to the GFCI breaker terminal that has a silvery appearance and is usually just
below the darker terminal. By the way if anyone has their freezer in the
garage on a GFCI then get it off immediately or get ready to someday lose the
whole contents of the freezer. One or more bathrooms in most houses
are on the load side of the GFCI that is usually located in the garage and a
cheap hairdryer can trip the circuit and you have one stinky mess in the
freezer by the time it gets discovered. I've seen this untold times as an
electrician and is one of the more common reasons we are called out. Hope this
saves someone some trouble...... Russ
Russ Dearmore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Good idea , if you can get by with a
" 20 " amp GFCI breaker.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why not just install a GFCI breaker right after
the shore power enters the boat. Every circuit would be covered, no dremel
tools, no wire tracking, no new outlets, less money, ten minute job,
Just a thought...
Tommy,
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Change your thinking, change your life. We are guided, we are guarded, we are
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Change your thinking, change your life. We are guided, we are guarded, we are
healed, we are blessed.....
