I still don't see how this could be a simple, 10-minute job. Wouldn't I have
to install some sort of breaker box right after the shore power inlet in
order to install the GFCI breaker there?
From: Russ Dearmore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: GFCI?
Date: Thu, 24 May 2007 07:22:55 -0700 (PDT)
Just remember not to cut the curled white wire that goes directly to the
grounded conductor bus bar (neutral). This wire acts a bit like a coil and
affects the sensing of the slight current flow to ground which is how the
GFCI's theoritically work. The slightest bit of current flow and you're
protected by the breaker tripping. The negative is that they can be too
sensitive and an inductive load (hair dryer or any motor) will sometime
produce a nuisance trip. As they age they get worse about that. The GFCI
breaker will have a terminal for the hot (probably black) wire and the
screw terminal will be of darker color like copper in appearance. The
circuit white wire will go to the GFCI breaker terminal that has a silvery
appearance and is usually just below the darker terminal. By the way if
anyone has their freezer in the garage on a GFCI then get it off
immediately or get ready to someday lose the whole contents of the freezer.
One or more bathrooms in most houses
are on the load side of the GFCI that is usually located in the garage
and a cheap hairdryer can trip the circuit and you have one stinky mess in
the freezer by the time it gets discovered. I've seen this untold times as
an electrician and is one of the more common reasons we are called out.
Hope this saves someone some trouble...... Russ
Russ Dearmore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Good idea , if you can get by
with a " 20 " amp GFCI breaker.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why not just install a GFCI breaker right
after the shore power enters the boat. Every circuit would be covered, no
dremel tools, no wire tracking, no new outlets, less money, ten minute job,
Just a thought...
Tommy,
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