Title: Message
John,
          With me being one of the 'ole farts around here at 46, I lived through the era of points. I have learned about them from a technical standpoint, and put up with them from a maintenance standpoint. While I am sure I don't know everything, and someone can add to this, I do think I can answer most of your question.
 
Here's the scoop on points:  Points rub up against a mechanical device on the distributor shaft that has high points followed by flat sections. There is a plastic or nylon rubbing block that spring loads up against that mechanical device. As the distributor shaft turns, the points open and close, which makes and breaks an electrical connection from the battery to the coil. This opening and closing of the points sends current through the coil then stops. The coil's job is to take that little bit of current that the points allow to pass through from the battery and jack it up to create a large voltage that can jump a gap in the spark plug. Those old coils would generate somewhere between 13,000 to 20,000 volts if memory serves me right, with 20,000 being the most common.
 
The points weakness were as follows:
 
1. When you reached higher rpms points would tend to "float" because they couldn't follow the shape of that distributor lobe (wouldn't be able to close all the way for as long as they should)  when things were traveling that fast. Therefore they didn't do a very good job at higher RPM's at keeping the coil supplied with what it needed to put out a good spark. The hot rodders used dual point distrbutors to try to get around this problem. It helped, but couldn't eliminate the problems I am about to describe.
 
2. The plastic/nylon rubbing block would tend to wear as time went on. While you were supposed to grease the rubbing block to help reduce wear, it still had wear happen eventually and as such ..the points got out of "adjustment"...or wouldn't work at maximum efficiency.
 
3. The amount of gap that the points opened had a lot to do with time open and closed and that had a lot to do with the right amount of current being sent to the coil. So you had to adjust the points gap.....not just when you changed them......(which is a big hint of things to come), but point gap was constantly changing from the time you put them in. In fact, you had to initially set them to a certain amount of gap when the plastic/nylon rubbing block was on a high point on the distributor lobe. So you needed a "feeler" guage (little pieces of metal of exact thichnesses and marked on them as to thier thickness) that set them to an exact amount. In a pinch, if you didn't have a feeler guage, and you were in an emergency "get it running and to hell with accuracy" situation, the ole boy's rule was to use a match book cover as the guage. GM did lead the way here and came up with a way to adjust points using a meter that measured what was happening at the coil. They also put a little "window" in the distributor cap where you could reach in with an allen wrench and adjust the points while the engine was running while looking at the dwell meter. I don't think Ford or Mopar ever did follow the lead on this.
 
4. The reason the points needed to be adjusted often was that the gap ...which directly related to time open and closed....called points "dwell" ...changed due not only due to the wear of the plastic/nylon rubbing against the metal block, but the metal contacts of the points would also get pitted from the constant pounding of current starting and stopping through them. Sometimes they would get so bad the car wouldn't run. So they had to be changed periodically ..and/or adjusted......and adjusted .....and adjusted.......being the main cause of the need for a "tune-up", which was much more often then than they are now due to points style ignitions being so bad. 
 
Now, considering that today's HEI systems no longer use points ...and use a much more effiecient electronic system for controlling the current flow through the coil, there is nothing to wear out, nothing to go out of alignment, no "float" at high rpms, nothing to change due to wear, and nothing to adjust. The coil is also jacked up from the old 20,000 volts to between 40,000 to 50,000 volts. This allows you to have a wider gap in the plugs than back then, and a better ignition source (long strong ZAP across the spark plug) for lighting up the gasoline & air mixture.
 
For me the points go in the trash!  I will NEVER go back to points...TECH RULES in this case!
 
Correct me if I am wrong guys...
                                                                  Steve
 
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I hear alot about HEI , not familar with that application. Can someone tell me the advantages and disadvantages of switching from points to this ? I hear alot of differnet stories about this , need more insight.

Thanks...John

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