Sounds to me like you still may have the problem with the wire coming from
the ignition switch. Here's why I say this. The ballast resistor you
mention is actually a resistance wire coming from the ignition switch - the
one you referred to. This wire drops the 12 volts down 9 or so at the
points to prolong their life. This resistance is actually serving a
'current limiting' function which is what actually reduces the wear.
Chrysler products actually used a separate 'ballast' resistor usually
mounted on the firewall.
The wire from the starter solenoid to the distributor is there to provide a
full 12V to the coil through the points for quicker, more efficient
starting. That 12V disappears once the solenoid disengages. If that
starter wire is getting THAT hot, it may be the only decent path supplying
the coil - hence it's pulling a BUNCH of current. Once you convert to HEI
(which you should do), you shouldn't use the resistance wire as HEI works
best with the full 12 volts, and the wire from the starter can be
eliminated.
Anyway, I'd check the ignition wire again. Make sure that all connections
are good and that it isn't shorting to ground.
Good luck,
Darrell Spencer
Cave Creek, Arizona
'70 BB Malibu
'66 SB El Camino
'75 BB GMC (8 mpg)
Darrell......
Thanks for the help.....after 6 hours of checking and re-checking, tracing wires we found it to be the neutral safety switch. For some reason or reasons unknown just wasn't making contact. After finding the right position the car fired right up and the coil and wires weren't even running hot. So we are replacing another safety switch tonight and also picking up an external ballast resistor just to be safe. But I do have one more question.....does anyone know the wiring procedure for intsalling a ballast resistor ??
Thanks.........John
Phila, Pa
66 Chevelle Malibu
