Absolutely DO NOT wire ANYTHING to the battery without the properly-sized fuse (or other over-current protection device) in the line, as close to the battery as possible!!! Unless you want your boat to burn to the waterline someday. This is especially true of anything with a motor in it, like a bilge pump. If anything jams the pump and you don't have a fuse, it'll just sit there and heat up until it either melts everything in the pump case or catches fire, whichever comes first.
Pat -- check the rating of the inline breaker, and then check what the pump manufacturer specs for that pump. This (or substandard wiring, or a bad inline breaker) could be the cause of the situation. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( (formerly ABYC-certified in marine electrical & electronics) > Pat, > > The switch should be hard wired to the battery w/o a fuse?? > > Joel > > > On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 5:05 PM, Pat Nevitt <[email protected]> wrote: > Looks like a great solution, but at 8 3/4 inches long it is too long for the > sump in my 29-2. I have had a nagging problem with my float switch for a > while. The main bilge pump works fine when switched on from the breaker > panel. When the water level reaches the float switch, it will activate the > pump for the first 2-5 times and then the in line circuit breaker for the > float switch pops. So, if it rains hard, I have to go to the boat (an hour > and 15 away) and manually pump the bilge. I have replaced the float switch 3 > times and get the same results.
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