Fred,

Yes, I knew the fuze was required.  The float switch requires a 3 amp fuze,
which is what I have used.  I have tried bumping it to a 4 amp fuze on two
occasions.  Yes, also equally dangerous.  The fuze still blows.  Looks to
me like I need a new pump and wiring.

Pat



On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Frederick G Street <[email protected]>wrote:

> Absolutely DO NOT wire ANYTHING to the battery without the properly-sized
> fuse (or other over-current protection device) in the line, as close to the
> battery as possible!!!  Unless you want your boat to burn to the waterline
> someday.  This is especially true of anything with a motor in it, like a
> bilge pump.  If anything jams the pump and you don't have a fuse, it'll
> just sit there and heat up until it either melts everything in the pump
> case or catches fire, whichever comes first.
>
> Pat -- check the rating of the inline breaker, and then check what the
> pump manufacturer specs for that pump.  This (or substandard wiring, or a
> bad inline breaker) could be the cause of the situation.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> (formerly ABYC-certified in marine electrical & electronics)
>
> Pat,
>
> The switch should be hard wired to the battery w/o a fuse??
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 5:05 PM, Pat Nevitt <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Looks like a great solution, but at 8 3/4 inches long it is too long for
>> the sump in my 29-2.  I have had a nagging problem with my float switch for
>> a while.  The main bilge pump works fine when switched on from the breaker
>> panel.  When the water level reaches the float switch, it will activate the
>> pump for the first 2-5 times and then the in line circuit breaker for the
>> float switch pops.  So, if it rains hard, I have to go to the boat (an hour
>> and 15 away) and manually pump the bilge.  I have replaced the float switch
>> 3 times and get the same results.
>
>
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