Just a thought, When I did my major refit, I made mounting plates that
matched those on the rear pulpit, welded studs onto the plates that poked
through the plates and were threaded on both ends. Those plates then become
permanently attached to the boat.  Then I just pushed the pulpit over the
studs and put acorn nuts on, so it is a very simple operation of removing 8
nuts to remove the pulpit - 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39  Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding

 


Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options locally.

As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove the rear
pulpit and take it into a shop for welding.  The broken weld is right at one
of the deck anchors so it would be tough not to damage the boat.  Plus then
they could properly repair the crappy weld job the mobile guy did -- I don't
think he used stainless for the core.  

Thanks,
Mark




 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-08-18 1:00 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Mark,

I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a "scotchbrite" pad to clean up rust stains.
I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version of what I use so
it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad & acid defiantly speeds
things up, allowing you to rinse in less time than a soak.

Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S  will affect it's protective
oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a "pickling paste" which is
just a fancy name for a really strong acid thickened enough to hang almost
vertical for a while doing it's job. Copious amounts of water is recommenced
to be on hand to get rid of it. 

The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from the boat
is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad more expensive
but a much better job and no splatter clean-up. 

If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet, water
flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff sticking to soft
stuff. 

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote:




Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat
repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to
repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.

The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and
seemed solid).  Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million
little rust stains in the gel coat.  We tried to scrub them out with Comet -
but mostly just brightened up the gel coat.  CLR didn't seem to do much -
maybe a longer soak?

Any suggestions on cleaning?  I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white
wash with stain to see if that will clean them.

Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded
with steel and that is rusting.  I had another weld that gave way (a lower
bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue.
Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole
rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done
properly.

Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder?
Recommendations in Halifax area?
I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated
right into the rear pulpit

Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco


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