As you say, probably nothing serious - you'd know by now. During that same boat search period, I nearly bought a CS36T, beautiful condition, crazy low price because of blistering. I backed out of the deal because I could not convince myself that the problem would not recur (again) - surveyor was a good guy, he didn't know either. i didn't want to have to sell the boat later with a serious and possibly hidden defect. In my discussions about blistering with learned folks at the time, I learned a local industry term - "shake and bake boats". This came from one of the principles of a well known Canadian yachtbuilder. (not C&C). He told me that during the peak of the sailing boom, the pressure was on to get boats out of the mold quickly - obviously the mold itself was the production bottleneck - and often the resin was mixed quite "hot". (also laminating could be rushed, boats released from molds a bit early, etc.) His speculation was that "shake and bake" boats (excessive catalyst for a quicker cure) have a much higher incidence of blistering that others, and he cited (and explained) models from the same period which did not have this problem. There was no reference to C&C at all in this conversation - for the record. BTW, a couple of too-hasty references in the Corvette description - the boat was #117 named Osprey, not Egret, I refer to hinterholler, when it was the guy in belleville who built the Corvette IIRC, - Morch marine? I mention the "boat" being cored with plywood - I think it's clear - the glassed in knees are glassed-over plywood. (the hull is solid, not sure about the deck.) Sounds like caseys book is pretty detailed on this stuff. Randy - an intact cored hull will be much stiffer than a sold hull, hence its use. think corrugated cardboard vs not.
Dave On 28 November 2016 at 22:17, RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net> wrote: > So, what I've got is a "flat spot", not a "hard spot", in Don Casey's > language. He says "Flat spots in the curved parts of a hull indicate > trouble. They occasionally occur because the manufacturer removed the hull > from the mold too soon, but more often they indicate weakness, damage, or a > poorly executed repair. Rigging tension can dimple a flimsy hull around > the chainplate attachment points." > > This is consistent with what Mike Hoyt said earlier in this thread, about > the boatbuilder and marina founder in his former club noticing and > repairing this kind of dimpling in just about every C&C 30 MK I he brought > in to the marina for resale. > > In my boat's case (30-1 hull #7) the hull is solid fiberglass, not cored, > with a "hanging knee" on the inside to which the chainplate bolts. I don't > know if that hanging knee is cored or not. But I'll find out soon when I > pull the chainplates for inspection and re-bedding. I also don't know if a > solid fiberglass hull is more or less "flimsy" than a cored hull. > > In any case, I'll inspect and the area again very carefully, including > percussion testing for delamination, and looking for cracked tabbing etc. > where knee meets hull. Hopefully this is not an indication of flimsiness, > weakness, or damage, but rather an example of an apparently common and > benign (?) issue in early 30-1s caused by overtightened shrouds. > > Rick Bushie if you're reading this, I'd love to hear whether Anchovy has > this issue. Same goes for any other 30-1 owners reading this. > > Again my surveyor did not flag this, demonstrating Dave S.'s original > point about the variability of surveyors. And I didn't notice it until > after buying the boat, while "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat" myself to > understand in detail what I'd bought into. Now I wish I'd read Don Casey > first :) > > But I'm not panicked about it. I sailed Grenadine in 30+ knots several > times this year (once under full main and 150% genoa, on port tack close > reach in fact, stressing that port chainplate knee), and she didn't tear > apart. :) And I managed to take first in my club's fall series, dimple and > all. > > Cheers, > Randy > > > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Dave S via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To: *"C&c Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc: *"Dave S" <syerd...@gmail.com> > *Sent: *Monday, November 28, 2016 5:38:52 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: > Brokers and surveyors) > > > Graham's description is pretty much what I saw on one of two Corvettes I > looked at closely. IIRC the corvette has one chainplate attached to a > bulkhead, another to a "hanging knee". In one case (the boat where the > hull distortion was pronounced) The hanging knee's glass tabbing was > fractured. this is really not a huge repair for a handy person, and the > owner had the work done for a reasonable price after we first went over the > boat together. Hinterholler was quite thoughtful, and cored these boats > with plywood that used what I think was resorcinol glue. which leeches > purple fluid when the wood is wet. Easy to see where the water has > entered. These repairs do not fix the hull buckling/DIMPLES but the boat > would probably be improved structurally with a careful DIY repair.. I > started looking for this problem after that, and I think you'd be surprised > how many old boats suffer this affliction and how badly distorted some are. > > Since we're talking about this...the other corvette - I'll name this one - > "Egret" was, sadly, a real mess, much of the interior rotten, including > those knees. The owner was an elderly guy and neglect had claimed the > boat, I think I could have gotten it for nothing which would not have been > a great deal. He reached out a few times asking for an offer - any offer > - and thankfully I resisted the impulse. I wrote him a detailed survey > explaining exactly what I thought was needed to be repair the boat, which > was to replace 75% of the interior, bulkheads, etc. (I had poked my > finger through a few, and I bet in an afternoon with a grinder and zip disc > I could have had it to a mostly bare shell. This would have been easier > than patching what was still intact. He lost that document and requested > it months later for some other buyer. It would not surprise me if it is in > the hands of a list member. > Pretty little boats, I hope someone has restored Egret - a pleasant > winter's work for someone with the time. > > Dave > > > --------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Graham Young <grahamyoung...@sbcglobal.net> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2016 14:15:28 +0000 (UTC) > Subject: > An over-tensioned rig and/or weak laminate is also one of the explanations > that Don Casey gives for dimples near the chain plates in his book on > inspecting old boats. He also points out that "hard spots" may result from > the hull flexing over an internal structure like a bulkhead. This may be > cosmetic, but apparently the concern would be whether the glass is > fractured and the hull weakened. > > He also recommends standing astern to see if the hull (and rudder/keel) > are fair and true as they can distort over time for a variety of reasons > including how they are blocked in the yard. > > These are not issue unique to C&C's, but potentially could afflict most > any boat. > > Graham > Spellbound > Cleveland, O. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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