Thanks Dave. I will need to check the port knee for integrity because I've got slight leakage down the chainplate. That's one reason my mast is down again this offseason - to pull and inspect and re-bed the chainplates. The other reason is to rebuild the mast step, and possibly replace halyards and sheaves. I'd like to get to a point where I can leave the rig up over the offseason :)
Anyway I confirmed the chainplate was leaking by tracing around it with washable marker, after noticing previous water damage to the shelf along the hull interior there. So I'll protect from future water ingress by rebedding the chainplates, and I'll inspect the bolt holes for wet / rotten plywood. And I'll check for cracked tabbing, delamination, etc. Cheers, Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave S" <syerd...@gmail.com> To: "RANDY" <randy.staff...@comcast.net>, "C&c Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 11:32:32 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: Brokers and surveyors) IF cosmetic only, as it probably is, I would not cut out any sound laminate - its the long roving fibres that provide strength. (It's also a lot of work.) IF I were spending big bux on topsides paint I would fill and fair, and maybe bulk up first with 'glass/mat if the divots were deep enough. Otherwise I'd leave the exterior well enough alone. Checking the knees/bulkheads for integrity, protecting from future water ingress, and adding tabbing or reinforcement inside the hull to spread out the load wouldn't hurt, it is not difficult in the larger scheme of things. and there are a few ways to do it. If anything is likely to fail its where the knee/bulkhead is tabbed to the hull/deck, or if the plywood is/was wet, the adhesion of the glass to the wood. My 33-2 had some minor cracked tabbing, and a previous boat needed a fair bit of work of this type. hardest part is the sometimes awkward location. My $.02 Dave From: RANDY < randy.staff...@comcast.net > To: cnc-list < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2016 18:10:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: Brokers and surveyors) I imagine a proper "repair" would be a major surgery, involving removing the hanging knee, cutting the dimpled section out of the topsides, rebuilding that section of the topsides to the original curvature and thickness and integrating the rebuilt section with the rest of the local topsides, and rebuilding or re-bonding the hanging knee. I don't even know if that operation is possible, and it's more than I would want to take on myself, or even pay an expert to do, if it's not really necessary because the integrity of the boat is not compromised by the dimple. Earlier in the thread Mike Hoyt said "he [Dana, the boatbuilder / marina founder] normally had to fill these dimples". I interpreted "fill" to mean more of a cosmetic fix than a full-blown repair as imagined above. That said, whenever I get around to "fixing" my boat's dimple, I will probably follow Don Casey's prescriptions in his Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual for laminate repair (pp. 204-217) and hull repairs (pp. 232-237) to do the job. In other words I would probably try to build up some additional fiberglass and epoxy laminate outside the dimple, instead of just filling and fairing the depression. Cheers, Randy From: "Graham Young via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > To: "cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: "Graham Young" < grahamyoung...@sbcglobal.net > Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 8:57:00 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: Brokers and surveyors) As Dave said, it may very well be cosmetic. Just the same, would it make sense to reinforce this area of the hull if for nothing other than peace of mind? Not sure if this would be over-kill or not. Earlier in the thread mention was made of the boat builder/marina founder who used to repair this kind of problem on the C&C 30-1's
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