ahh now I see there is an enlarged hole already. If this were my
issue, I'd open it up past the bolt holes and make a solid FG pad
here. then cut a new slot, drill new bolt holes and protect that balsa
core from ever being victim to water damage again. Basically a mini
version of Mikes repair. Or, could you just remove the core back past
the bolt holes and fill the whole thing with an epoxy/filler mix? I
think the main thing is to protect the remaining core from ever getting
wet again from these openings. Also, do you think a multi tool would do
a much better job of getting the wet core removed given the amount of
access afforded by that slot?
Danny
On 1/31/2017 8:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Randy
Of your four pictures only the portlookingaft picture does not show
any discolouration that appears to be rot. You should start digging
out the core to see how far the wet and rot travels from the opening
Mike
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of
*RANDY via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, January 30, 2017 11:15 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* RANDY; Dave S
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
I'd really like to thank everyone for all the responses on this.
Went back to the boat today and carefully re-examined the core around
the chainplate cutouts, and did a bunch of testing - percussion
testing, weighting the area and looking for deflection, etc. Put a
few pictures up at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk.
I don't think the extent of coring warrants peeling the top skin and
replacing core material; I think digging out some core around the
edges, and filling with thickened epoxy, will be enough of an
improvement and repair. The deck, especially outboard and downslope
of the chainplate cutouts, doesn't sound dull and doesn't deflect
downward. It seems solid enough.
The chainplates themselves show no signs of corrosion or moisture
damage. Only one bolt (lowest inboard starboard) out of 14 showed any
rust, and it was superficial (nowhere near twisting the head off).
I'm fortunate that my boat has had a freshwater life its entire life.
You can see in the pictures I've got a bit more old sealant to clean
away, but then I think a dig, fill, and re-seal job should suffice.
Really appreciate everyone's responses. Someday I'll need to work up
the courage to do a peel & re-core job under my starboard aft bow
pulpit foot - I have a small soft spot there.
Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From: *"Dave S via CnC-List" <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
*To: *"C&c Stus List" <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
*Cc: *"Dave S" <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
*Sent: *Monday, January 30, 2017 9:43:00 AM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
FWIW, and I agree with much below. Will assume you are dealing with
balsa and not plywood as a core. Have repaired both and will share the
following, YMMV, etc... Probably way too much info, but:
1) Damp balsa does not mean structurally unsound.... (yet)
2) I prefer to remove more rather than less. This allows you a
large enough area to work, makes it easy to clean/prep the surfaces,
as well as being certain that you are not building any voids into the
finished result. You can also use really thick glass-loaded epoxy
that simply cannot be injected into a small hole. As with
drywall/sheetrock, it is sometimes easier when doing repairs to give
yourself space to work, and to prep the surfaces.
3) I like the hole saw approach, cutting through one skin only.
The hole saw also allows you the opportunity to install a structural
filler piece, well bedded in glass-filled epoxy. Rather than just
troweling in the schmutz. you can laminate a sheet of fibreglass into
a high density layup of the appropriate thickness, (even tapered, or
curved) then use the same hole saw to cut out a "puck" from that sheet
and install into the hole. Bulletproof.
4) IMO Working from below is best if you have the space/access, for a
number of reasons, including the fact that any holes won't
move. Working from above can be easier, though the cosmetic
redemption is harder.
5) Epoxy is available in a range of cure times. "hot in the pot"
should not be an issue if you pick the right one. Never had that
happen, but I have had it get a little warm and further shorten the
cure time. (have had polyester resin get pretty hot....)
6) To make a patch that feathers on the edges, laminate progressively
smaller pieces of cloth (alternate mat and cloth with polyester resin,
I like biaxial stitch mat with epoxy) on a sheet of waxed paper, then
lift that and stick it onto the wound like a bandaid, peeling off the
waxed paper. Best is to do this (or any sequential application of
epoxy) on top of the previous epoxy application while it is at its B
stage (gelled but not cured) Not only is the putty still it pliable,
but it will not need prep to achieve a good chemical bond. You can
not simply epoxy over top of cured epoxy and expect a bond. (google
"amine blush")
7) when done, (but not cured) you can carefully lay some PE film (or
waxed paper) over top and smooth. this can help tame any stray edges
and depending on the repair, actually functions a bit like a vacuum
bag, assisting in adhesion to curves. You can also shape any putty
into smooth shapes or radii for a more professional result.
8) Read up on fillers. If you expect to fill space, you don't want the
epoxy to flow, you need colloidal silica, If you want it to be strong
you need to load with glass, you want to sand it
microspheres. (don't put yourself in the position of having to
sand the structural part of a repair....)
9) make a notched trowel and use appropriate fillers for
fairing/finishing. The notches leave little ridges in the epoxy.
Sand those off and stop.
OK, that's enough...
Dave
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
Date: 30 January 2017 at 09:25
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 70
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates (Danny Haughey)
2. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates (Danny Haughey)
3. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates (Hoyt, Mike)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Danny Haughey <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 09:08:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates
Hi randy,
It seems you are definitely going in the right direction. I had a
problem like this on one of my old boats but, under the bow rail
feet. I traced out the size of the plate and oped things up a bit
with a hole saw to give deeper
>>>snip
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_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
