mike,
you shared that link before and I never get bored going to look at it!!
That is a great job!
I thin one needs to get past the fear of opening up what needs to be
opened on a project like that. Going a little extra isn't really any
more work.
What did you do for the voids around the new coring, just fill with the
epoxy/filler?
Danny
On 1/30/2017 9:25 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Randy
The first step you should have done is to determine the extent of the
wetness. It is likely a lot more extensive than you would at first
believe. I would seek out a local resource (surveyor or boatbuilder)
and have them map out the wet area for you. Remember these are old
boats and the moisture has had a long time to spread. The second
thing you should know is that a wet deck does not normally feel at all
spongy. This only occurs on a severely rotted area
The good news is that this is a very simple repair and one that you
can easily do yourself. It is also not very expensive. I have recored
around the chainplates on my two previous boats. On our Niagara 26 a
very experienced boatbuilder (who incidentally purchased and resold a
number of C&C 30-1) showed me how to do this. He routinely did this
on boats he was reselling. My first instinct was to just dig out
around the chainplates but he used his moisture meter and hammer and
mapped out the wet areas as approx. 3 ft by 1 ft on each side. The
repair was completed and it looked no different than the rest of the deck.
The process I used for replacing wet and rotted deck coring is
documented on my current boat web page. This was from our J27 “Nut
Case”. I also have a page that documents the chainplate area recoring
on the same boat but that is not currently on the web site and I am
having a bit of difficulty connecting to upload it. I will post to
this group with a note to you once I get it back on the web.
Unfortunately I only have so much space allotted and cannot leave
everything online.
The link to deck recore replacement can be found on this page
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/j27_index.html
<http://users.eastlink.ca/%7Emhoyt/j27_index.html> The process for the
chainplate area is basically the same.
Regards
Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt <http://users.eastlink.ca/%7Emhoyt>
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*RANDY via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, January 29, 2017 6:48 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* RANDY
*Subject:* Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
Listers-
We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be
sunny all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early
February).
So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C&C 30 MK I as part of a
planned rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last
year). Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet
and rotten wood core material between the outer and inner deck skins
around the chainplate cutout holes.
Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with
this the right way. The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the
chainplates and inject new sealant all around, including into the void
between deck skins where rotten core came out, butting up against
remaining (and possibly still wet) core.
On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about
cored deck repair. I could consider removing core around all sides of
the cutout, about a half-inch back from each edge, using a bent nail
chucked into a power drill. Then I could fill those voids with
thickened epoxy to the edges of the cutout, and then re-bed the
chainplates.
The extreme end of the spectrum would be to try to map out the area of
wet core e.g. perhaps from the outboard edge of the chainplate cutout
all the way to the toe rail, then remove and replace the damaged core.
However that seems like a huge and complicated job, and I don't think
the wet area is that large. I haven't noticed any softness or
squishiness around the chainplates at all, but I can percussion-test
it carefully.
In the meantime I'm letting those areas dry out by leaving the
chainplates out and exposing those areas to the dry Colorado air. I
may go pour some acetone in those voids too, since Don Casey
identifies that as a core-drying technique.
I'm leaning towards the void-filling approach. What do you think?
Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
