If you don't have a bent nail, an Allen wrench works as well. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine
Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jan 29, 2017, at 22:05, RANDY via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: > > Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam). Let me see where I stand on Tuesday - I > may be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing tomorrow. > Let's call or text on Tuesday. > > Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just needed > a really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various sealant jobs > built up on their undersides). > > Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the hull. And > the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of weakening from > exposure to moisture. I just want to make sure I do a proper job of sealing > it all up so I don't get more coring in the deck going forward. > Unfortunately it looks like my boat's previous owners didn't do a proper job > (e.g. per Don Casey's prescriptions) of keeping this area sealed, and a > little bit of coring occurred. The starboard side was all gooped up with > clear silicone, and the port side had an ineffective bead of white caulk > around the edge of the cover, and both sides had hard-as-rock probably > original white-colored sealant under those other sealants. > > I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the re-bedding > sealant. > > Cheers, > Randy > > From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > To: "cnc-list" <[email protected]> > Cc: "Dennis" <[email protected]> > Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates > > Randy, > > You're on the right track. Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would have > stopped by and taken a peek. I'm back up in the mountains now. > > If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent nail, > etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some neat > epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it then > quickly suck out the epoxy. That will coat the exposed surfaces so the > thickened epoxy will bond better. Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let it > cure and re-install the chalnplates. Don't forget to chamfer the hole so the > bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut. > > I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon. Got to pick up my ski > buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage on the > way. > > Dennis C. > > On Jan 29, 2017 3:48 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <[email protected]> wrote: > Listers- > > We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be sunny > all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early February). > > So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C&C 30 MK I as part of a planned > rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last year). > Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet and rotten wood > core material between the outer and inner deck skins around the chainplate > cutout holes. > > Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with this > the right way. The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the chainplates > and inject new sealant all around, including into the void between deck skins > where rotten core came out, butting up against remaining (and possibly still > wet) core. > > On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about cored deck > repair. I could consider removing core around all sides of the cutout, about > a half-inch back from each edge, using a bent nail chucked into a power > drill. Then I could fill those voids with thickened epoxy to the edges of > the cutout, and then re-bed the chainplates. > > The extreme end of the spectrum would be to try to map out the area of wet > core e.g. perhaps from the outboard edge of the chainplate cutout all the way > to the toe rail, then remove and replace the damaged core. However that > seems like a huge and complicated job, and I don't think the wet area is that > large. I haven't noticed any softness or squishiness around the chainplates > at all, but I can percussion-test it carefully. > > In the meantime I'm letting those areas dry out by leaving the chainplates > out and exposing those areas to the dry Colorado air. I may go pour some > acetone in those voids too, since Don Casey identifies that as a core-drying > technique. > > I'm leaning towards the void-filling approach. What do you think? > > Thanks, > Randy Stafford > S/V Grenadine > C&C 30-1 #7 > Ken Caryl, CO > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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