Let me expound a bit on alternators and engine size.   When replaced my dumb 
alternator with a Balmar set-up (alternator, smart Charger, digital Duo etc ) 
on my 33 hp diesel Balmar recommended no more than the 80 amp because of the 
loss of HP which I could ill afford.


If you have HP to spare...go for it.   If not reconsider.



1981 40-2

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)


________________________________
From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 12:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

Paul, Thanks for these more accurate "ratings".  It definitely helps to give an 
answer to the question of "what does good look like?"  I have never saught out 
actual ratings for refrigerator loads and I've never gotten a AHr meter 
installed - besides the plethora of variables which make single point AHr usage 
almost impossible to  determine.  It seemed like nobody else had provided a 
frame of reference besides examples of their own setup and I was kinda trying 
to describe a worst case numbers scenario to provide an upper boundary to the 
project.  Your numbers bring further clarity by providing a lower boundary.

You and other listers are absolutely correct that adding insulation is the best 
way to reduce refrigerator AHr load.

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Oct 16, 2017, 9:20 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

If you have a refrigeration load of 120AH/day, don’t waist money on increasing 
battery and charging capacity.

Spend a little cash on better insulation or rebuild your box with more and 
better insulation.   It is not unreasonable to shoot for a refrigeration load 
under 30AH/day.  Just have a look at Wally’s Stella Blue page titled “Marine 
refrigeration and freezer on 22AH/day”(I recall he has a  Frigoboat unit with 
keel cooler).   Technautics claim that their CoolBlue system consumes “24AH/Day 
for a 7 cubic foot fridge/freezer with R-30” and “operates at ambient 
temperatures up to 120F without a loss in system efficiency.”   Even the 
Isotherm claims their ASU SP3751 can achieve loads under 20AH/day.   Now making 
ice or cooling down warm beer on a really hot day will likely have higher load 
demands, but the message is still the same.  Insulation is cheaper than 
batteries and lasts a lot longer too.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7Cdavidrisch75%40msn.com%7C174374313e324a76649608d514b5ae0e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636437692893291062&sdata=3Z6nZDYREvjXOkTwuBgdW3OftsiN%2B4KI22XBkKfEUaQ%3D&reserved=0>

On Oct 14, 2017, at 2:02 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Lets consider some hypothetical numbers based on the rep's info.  If a 100w
panel were %100 effective and operated for 8 hours, you would get 800w-hrs
of power per day.  800w divided by 12v = 67amp-hrs.  67 divided by 24hrs =
2.8amps current draw on average.

That kinda gives you a ball park for what type of loads you'll be facing.
Round up to 5amps/hr if you like for margin.  5 *24=120AHr per day.
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