Scott:
My boat has two windows on each side as well, and one, the long one has
a significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in
place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 8 years
ago and the windows still look like new with no issues.
First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed
the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and
carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus.
I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a
template to cut the 4 new windows.
Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of
the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave
it as the adhesive will take care of it.
At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and
the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the
Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2
tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika
295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer.
The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in
the cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away
where they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the new
window where they will be mounted.
I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is
very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I
applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as
I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on
the edge of each window itself.
I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each
window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces
of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a
10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in
place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing
time with the moderate Spring temperature.
I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before
the adhesive started to cure.
If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address
the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape,
regardless of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective,
it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you
are not prepared.
Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a
Sika adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they
used was similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction
of the 295 UV for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in
the shop for 24 to 48 hours while it cures.
Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-11-21 5:59 PM, Scott Baker via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out
how to search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to
replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight
curvature in them.
~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond)
Tape from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the
curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount
them? If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again
later? Solutions?
~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting
proceedures because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have
a different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows
out of. Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his
website.
~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it
hard to see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
windows.
~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones…
so therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered
the removal of these windows without hacking everything up?
~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do
I need to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on
removing the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put
new ones in in the spring?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C
site, I’d love to be edumacated!
Sorry for beating this dead horse.
~Scott Baker
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_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
