I was told some folks bought a gallon of carb cleaner and soaked the carb in it for days...it finally did the trick. I took out the jets and that seemed to work for me…
David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 4:22 PM To: CnC discussion list CnC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up... No fuel filter. I found some discussions on boards (https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-df-2-5-wont-keep-running.455819/) about issues and some have added a fuel filter to the fuel line. One guy cleaned the carburetor 6 times before he finally got it to work right. Others agreed that the tiny fuel jets in this system are prone to partial plugging with debris and it is very challenging to clean it out. I will probably remove the carburetor (since I know how to do it now) again and use more carb cleaner and more pressurized air to try to get at those tiny passageways for fuel. Fishing line was suggested so I will try that. I was not very vigorous in my first attempt. Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT [cid:image001.png@01D5B759.583A8460] On Dec 20, 2019, at 11:06 AM, David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Simple stuff first. My generator ran then shut down a minute later. Even though the fuel filter “looked” OK. Replaced it and spark plug and vrooomm…110 to spare. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 10:43 AM To: CnC discussion list CnC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com<mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up... I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing to get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to start every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than before disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far as I can tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find a YouTube for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident when the water pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same since, so I suspect that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that would affect starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth further disassembly? Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT <image001.png> On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the bits of water flying about it was not so discernable. The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into the water were escaping unmuffled. These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly apparent once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these little marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine while running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things I should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes are correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck with a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to spend on “funner” things. Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
